Operating HO scale ground throws?

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All the big operating layouts around here use them. Easy to use and reliable.

I'm going to use then on my Rock Ridge and Train City II.

The Hump Yards are Cool looking to, but I think they are too modern for your layout. But they are 100% mechanical and cost just a little more than Cabooses.

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I've used Caboose ground throws. They work well, and don't look too bad. They are, of course, not in scale.

I like those levers Chip. Are there electrical contacts in them as well? That would be sweet!
 


Josh,

One hint. Caboose throws go all the way to the ground on each side. Like that they are hard to pick-up. Some guys glue a bead to the ground on each side to keep them up high enough to grab.
 
Regarding the Hump Yard levers, there's been some reports from folks who are using them that they have a problem holding the points tight against the rails. Seems to be not enough tension in the full throw position. The Caboose Industries are more positive in this respect.

Kennedy
 
I have a couple of "Caboose Industries - Switch Stand with Lantern & Target" manual switches. They work very well and I like the way they look.
 
HaggisKennedy said:
Regarding the Hump Yard levers, there's been some reports from folks who are using them that they have a problem holding the points tight against the rails. Seems to be not enough tension in the full throw position. The Caboose Industries are more positive in this respect.

Kennedy
Click to expand...

I don't want to hijack this thread, but I will say this. The hump yard switches work, but there is a lot to figure out.

For instance: the switch has a throw of about 1/2 inch. The turnout needs to move about 3/32". If the length of wire bent at the turnout is too short--say it is 1/2"-- there will be too much pressure. The wire has 1/2" to compensate for the 3/8" extra movement the switch moves. The wire will force the switch back into place and turnout will slip.

IF however, you put a 1" dogleg at the end of the wire. The wire has 1 1/2" to compensate and both the switch and the turnout stay in place.
 
Thanks for the opinions guys! I love the hump yard ones, but one BIG problem with them, is I'm trying to keep everything flush with the front of the layout. The Hump yard handles will stick out too far. This is a modular, movable layout after all.

I'm avoiding tortoise machines just because I'm worried about damaging them in any movement of the layout, and would not like to remove them to move it (as with the hump yard controls).

The Atlas under table machine looks semi-promising, anyone ever use it? 1, is it manual, or powered? 2, is it reliable? I looks like its about 1/2" thick, or less, which is acceptable for my layout.

I'm debating if the Caboose Industries throws are viable, there's not allot of space near some of the switches, such as the mainline passing siding. I'd like to model a powered switch, with the manual throw option.
View attachment 7752

This will allow me to have a signaled, CTC mainline & passing siding, though the switching will be "dark", I'll add a dwarf signal in the spots where you'd block the main.

So, yeah, the signaling has to do with the under table Atlas machines.

Also, how about the Rix one, anyone use that one?

If I use Micro Engineering switches, they're sprung, so they should be able to hold them selves closed...
 


I would go with the cabooses. Like I said, pretty much all the vets around here use them. I'd have used them except that all my turnouts are in the streets.

Your layout is too modern for the hump yards to make sense. But I mounted them this way to fit my layout. You could have just as easily mounted them on the inside of the fascia or in a hidden alcove, or top mounted. Or top mount and recessed.

Nick Humpyard.com.

As for the Rix, my club uses them. They work but are about the same size and shape as the Tortoise when all is said and done. They snap as opposed to the Tortoise's slo mo. I've not used the Tortoise, but I've sure spent a lot of time under the layout working on old Rix machines.
 
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Oh heck, Chip, is was going to say "Wait, what?" then I realized they have a powered switch machine. I was talking about this Rix offering:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/628-13

The big issue I have so far, is something the size of the Caboose ones, fitting in the complex track work of the passing siding. Its narrow, not much room.
 
Josh, I have Caboose ground throws everywhere except the mainlines. They are great performers and stand up to abuse. I like the sprung type as you don't have to go to the ground with the handle to have a good throw and have a little spring action on the points.

Like Chip said, they still end up all the way down as many seem to think its necessary. Kind of a pain to get your finger nail under the handle to lift them. I haven't thought about a bead or something for a stop. GOOD IDEA! :)
 
jbaakko said:
Oh heck, Chip, is was going to say "Wait, what?" then I realized they have a powered switch machine. I was talking about this Rix offering:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/628-13

The big issue I have so far, is something the size of the Caboose ones, fitting in the complex track work of the passing siding. Its narrow, not much room.
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Didn't know about the Rix hand throw.

You don't have to have the caboose right next to the turnout. I've seen them 2-3 feet from the turnout connected with a straight piece of piano wire. If say, you mount a bunch of cabooses out by your fascia, you should have a logical way to tell which is which in a hurry.
 
SpaceMouse said:
Things can be glued to foam.--like a 2 x 2 1/4 plywood square.
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I've used the WS black roadbed material as a platform for the ground throws. It glues and holds well to foam and the ground throw holds well with two nails and some carpenters glue. If you cut the roadbed right, you get nice shoulders for ballasting also.
 
RexHea said:
Josh, I have Caboose ground throws everywhere except the mainlines. They are great performers and stand up to abuse. I like the sprung type as you don't have to go to the ground with the handle to have a good throw and have a little spring action on the points.

Like Chip said, they still end up all the way down as many seem to think its necessary. Kind of a pain to get your finger nail under the handle to lift them. I haven't thought about a bead or something for a stop. GOOD IDEA! :)
Click to expand...

SpaceMouse said:
Didn't know about the Rix hand throw.

You don't have to have the caboose right next to the turnout. I've seen them 2-3 feet from the turnout connected with a straight piece of piano wire. If say, you mount a bunch of cabooses out by your fascia, you should have a logical way to tell which is which in a hurry.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys, I'll test them out, and see if I cannot devise a way to use a caboose throw on the fascia to actuate the main line switches (which will allow me to use something to "stand in" as the remote switch machine.
 
Josh,

I used switch machines for a couple years, but for the last year I've been operating on big layouts with caboose ground throws.

They are not stand ins. They are better for operations. You are right there and present when you are operating. You look the turnout see which way it is lined and flip the switch.

On layouts that I knew intimately, my own and my clubs, when I came to a turnout and I looked at the turnout and then I looked to the control panel to first find, then push the appropriate buttons. Even when wired the layout, the club and my own, I had to look to make sure I pushed the right ones.

With the cabooses, you just look at the turnout and flip it.

As I said before, the only reason I'm not using them on my current layout is that the turnouts are in the streets. Levers are more appropriate.

This system is not a stand in. Cabooses are a better system.
 


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