Old Troller walk around throttles.


chessie_system3

Well-Known Member
Anyone have any info on these? Mine burned out and if I cant get them repaired then I would like to find a replacement. The Troller throttles I had worked the best for my Proto 2000 locomotives. However I had the TRH-40 model. So any info on these would be great.
20210329_134203.jpg

20210329_134128.jpg
 
If you're able to build electronic circuits, I suggest the Cooler Crawler. Or (ahem) I have a design of my own which I think works pretty well, and other people have said they think so too. But these aren't commercial products and don't come in elegant boxes.
 
Last edited:
If you're able to build electronic circuits, I suggest the Cooler Crawler. Or (ahem) I have a design of my own which I think works pretty well, and other people have they think so too. But these aren't commercial products and don't come in elegant boxes.
I would say I'm not that good. I mean I destroyed my varipulse on accident so yeah I'm not that good. I guess it's a good thing I didnt buy the kit.
 
I have this on my watch list. I am curious about it though as there were two styles like this TRH-100 which is the one you shared and a TRH-200. Both look identical with exception to the throttle knob. I wonder if the voltages are different between the two?
The output should be ~ 0 -12 V DC , They are almost identicle but the 100 has a light /heavy switch and the 200 has a momentum on/off.
 
Well well.....I missed that tidbit. Are these even worth anything? Or just more junk from a company that's been gone for years? I know the TRH-40s were decent. They had good speed performance. Atleast for me they did.
 
I dont have any experience with the troller handhelds . DC units really fall into one of three categories ,resistor , transistor , Integrated.

Resistor throttles were the first and were used in train sets up till the seventies , speed regulation was poor engines would start to move and then stall , to get something moving you had to raise the voltage and then throttle back any change in load due to curves, grade ,ect would cause stalling.

Transistor throttles started showing up in the 70's , advantages were constant current thru the motor which results in constant torque on the motor giving better speed regulation , stall on grades and curves is mitigated .

Integrate throttles start showing up in the 80's ( I had MRC Tech II ) , more or less constant voltage output resulting in constant RPM on the motor , stalling with decent quality motors was reduced and with better quality motors almost eliminated entirely , A Tech II I could put a Athearn F w/ Holland and ten cars , point it at a 2% grade , start it on level track at around 5-7 mph , and when it hit the grade it would make it up with only a slight decrease in speed. You couldn't do that with a cab 55 on the same run, you'd have to get up to 15 even with that big Holland, but it was still better than resistor pack .

All the MRC Tech throttles are integrated , unfortunately back in the 80's MRC didn't make a walkaround with memory , so I ended up making my own .
 
I have noted the CC 55 just won't cut it. I have stalls on any slow run if there is any kind of deviation in my trackage. Locomotives will stall. Not shut off but not have enough power to get over the hump. And sadly my CM 20 will do the same if I dont have the nudge function activated. Even with that you can tell. It won't stall out but the locomotive will slow. This is on a very slight deviation as well. These are things I've recently observed. I had no issues with my Troller throttles at all. There wasnt any stalls or slow downs to speak of. Same with the Varipulse I had. They were noisy with the Varipulse but still operated nicely. I have been reluctant to purchase another Varipulse. Way things are looking I may have to. Who knows?
 
Usually if the locomotive runs better(able to maintain a slower speed) on pulse than on DC , its an indication of "tight" drive . The pulse is intended to vibrate the drive . I have found that with careful maintaince most locomotives will run as good on straight DC , in some cases better.

I have some P2K FA 's and the first thing I had to do was replace the split axles , but also some of the other gears were less than optimal . The other thing was to stay away from grease. Grease will bog the trucks.With the truck out and the worms off they should roll almost as freely as a freight car truck , They should have no problem rolling 1 - 2 ft with a moderate push . Even after replacing the axles one of my trucks wouldn't roll 6". Once fixed , performance on straight DC was very good.
 
Usually if the locomotive runs better(able to maintain a slower speed) on pulse than on DC , its an indication of "tight" drive . The pulse is intended to vibrate the drive . I have found that with careful maintaince most locomotives will run as good on straight DC , in some cases better.

I have some P2K FA 's and the first thing I had to do was replace the split axles , but also some of the other gears were less than optimal . The other thing was to stay away from grease. Grease will bog the trucks.With the truck out and the worms off they should roll almost as freely as a freight car truck , They should have no problem rolling 1 - 2 ft with a moderate push . Even after replacing the axles one of my trucks wouldn't roll 6". Once fixed , performance on straight DC was very good.
If you dont mind me asking what do you do to fix the gearing on your locomotives? Run a file through the gears to free them up?
 
If you dont mind me asking what do you do to fix the gearing on your locomotives? Run a file through the gears to free them up?
First check for grease or any contaminants , if that doesn't cure it , I changed the gears completely with new or spares from an Athearn Blue Box. I think I swapped a couple of the axles and gears from old PA. Seems like I had to change the wheels / bearings too because they're not quite the same shaft size. I think the Athearns are slightly smaller 2.38 mm vs 2.4 mm .

The other thing to check for is thrust washers , there should be one on each end of the worm.

The main thing was the trucks rolled easily with the worm out . If not you know you have a problem.
 
Does replacing the idle gears also cure the athearn growl as well? Or is it a thing I just learn to live with? I've noticed that all of my athearn driven stuff has the growl.
 



Back
Top