OK layout for my room time again.

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Stang, are you going to use benchwork with framed foam or benchwork with plywood on top? The quick and dirty way to figure plywood is that about half the room's dimensions are taken up by the layout. You need half the total square feet of the room's worth of plywood. Just divide the resulting number by 32 to get the approximate number of 4x8 sheets of plywood you'll need. Same idea with foam. Framing lumber, legs and braces will be about 2.5 times the length and width of the room, in linear feet of 1x2's. If you want to be more accurate, you need to calculate the actual layout area, but the quick and dirty method will be enough to get your started without over buying.

Ok cool, im prolly gonna do benchwork with plywood and maybe foam on top havent decided yet.

But i wanna try and build it in sections or modules just in case we ever decide to move.
 
I built my current layout so I never could take it down. In my experince with 3 layouts over the last 15 years you never keep the old track plan because you end up in a diffrent sized room. Unless its a sectional layout that you could bring to shows I dont think its worth it. Keep the switches and buildings lights etc... but junk the rest when its time to move. You are saving about $50 in flex track $300 in scenery yet giving you hours of headaches trying to save something that will likely never work out for you in a new room. Im in a delema right now. Im working on my layout of 6 years but the Girlfriend wants to turn the basement into a spa with a steam shower and hot tub. we plan on moving in about 5 years so it is a better idea to have that then a train for the next owners LOL I kinda like her idea of a place to just go and really relax. I can do all the scenery work at the club if I get board. we will see.....
 


I built my current layout so I never could take it down. In my experince with 3 layouts over the last 15 years you never keep the old track plan because you end up in a diffrent sized room. Unless its a sectional layout that you could bring to shows I dont think its worth it. Keep the switches and buildings lights etc... but junk the rest when its time to move. You are saving about $50 in flex track $300 in scenery yet giving you hours of headaches trying to save something that will likely never work out for you in a new room. Im in a delema right now. Im working on my layout of 6 years but the Girlfriend wants to turn the basement into a spa with a steam shower and hot tub. we plan on moving in about 5 years so it is a better idea to have that then a train for the next owners LOL I kinda like her idea of a place to just go and really relax. I can do all the scenery work at the club if I get board. we will see.....

I thought of that to, more then likely itll be built as one unit.
 
I have to go against the grain here and strongly urge you to consider building this with modules or at least design it so you can cut it easily into transportable sections.

I had a large L-girder and Homasote HO layout in my previous house and while I tried to save as much of it as I could when I moved, most of it was ruined from flexing, etc. That was enough to keep my trains in boxes for a few years.

Just my experience.
 
Not only does it look better but the trains stay on track almost 95% of the time!!!
Trent
i enjoyed this comment , thank you :D

looks like potential for lots of fun.

as far as minimum radius, while others that have the luxury of larger radii may disagree, from what i see 22 is plenty adequate for 6 axle, ie longish dash-8. could be better but it doesn't look that bad on it either. my inner loop is 19.5 and i had to resort ot several R18 sections in tight spots in several places (eased in with r22 sections). it didn't have problem with derailing there either but the overhang is not pretty of course. i will have to live with it.

as far as elevation change this is one of things that in my opinion are must have. otherwise it looks to flat and almost boring to me. i have almost no room for it but as soon as i started playing with risers i realized that i absolutely have to have it.

my 2 cents.
 
Just to advise that Walthers recommend 24" minimum radius for their Gold Line 86' dbl door boxcars. I run mine on 22" but the wheels are touching the frame. I assume long cars like center beam flatcars or enclosed auto-racks will have the same issues on 22". Not sure if you want to run those type of cars but better to know before starting to lay tracks. I would have used 24" on my mainline having known that in advance.
 




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