oil trails (suggestions needed)

[Airslide]

ok, so i got some oils yesterday and decided to try to achieve that light oxidizing rusted effect. sorry for the dark photos.

roofs

the results were not perfect, not even close. but i did get a bit of a better understanding of stipiling and control. experience is the best teacher. I have plenty of scrap cars to practice on, so i will continue to do so before i try this on my 'in service' rolling stock. couple of questions for the experts:

1)how do you clean the brushes?

2) can powders be used on top of oils after they dry? or should they be applied while the paint is still wet - which seems like an eternity...i have used oils before so i kind of already knew that.

3) any particular paint brands or types i should be using?

i will continue with my own trial and error, but i am looking to learn a thing or two from the experience of others..

 

[UP2CSX]

Airslide, lacquer thinner works fine as a brush cleaner. It's also works well as thinner. It looks like you need to really thin out the oil paint so it's a a very thin wash. Build up several coats until it looks right.

My own preference is mostly chalks and weathering powders. I wouldn't put weather powder on top of wet oil paint since the final result will be unpredictable. I usually start off with a coat of dullcote, weather using chalks and powders, followed by another coat of dullcote. This is usually a three or four step process until I get a look I'm happy with. I will then use a thin alcohol was with a few drops of india ink to blend everything together. About the only time I use oil paints is if I want to simulate a thick layer of rust or crud.

 

[Laidoffsick]

I use a combination of techniques with powders, acrylics, airbrushing, dry brushing, etc etc. Remember when it comes to weathering, a little goes a long way. These flat car pix I used mostly powders mixed right into the acrylic
paint with a dab of hairspray and applied lightly with a piece of makeup sponge. The hitches were coated with powder mixed hairspray, and the truck springs got some rust powder. Several coats of dull coat in between steps and a final weathering with the airbrush and a last coat of dull coat.

 

[lmackattack]

my choice of paint is the model master water based (acrylic)sp?) It is easy to fix a mistake as you can use a wet rag to wipe the paint off (if your quick) It also allows you to change colors faster and is easy to thin out. I always used oil paints before but after finding how much more detail was left on the model with the water baised paints I switched over.

just my .02
Trent

 

[Airslide]

thanks all. the idea that less is more pointed out is indeed what I need to work on. most of what Im showing here is just practice. i still have about half a dozen scrap cars to work with, like the pickens and the southern. both were without chassis and doors when i got them. i also have about half a dozen cabooses that i wont be using. i like working with the powders and acrylics mainly because the dry faster, and the mud (acrylic/powder mix) is also pretty cool. as for the oils, this was the effect i was trying to achieve. i was stumped trying to get this look with powders and acrylics. stippling (sp)oils seem to be the business for this type of light rust.. this weekend i will thin down the oils and try to work on applying less since i have a better idea how they behave.

 

[UP2CSX]

A lot of what you're seeing on that boxcar is not rust, it's primer showing through a lousy paint job. Some the primer on the right side of the car is still just that - primer - and using a light coat of primer colored paint would look right. For some reason, the left side of the car seems to have more primer gone and rust down to the bare metal. There's still some primer showing through even there though. That would be a really tough car to duplicate.

 

[DirtyD79]

I don't really use oils at all. I pretty much always stick to water based paints like Flo-Quil, Testors and Tamiya. I also use weathering powders and then just seal them with Testor's Model Master clear flat spraypaint. What you're doing seems to work decently too.

 

[MLW]

Airslide

Yes you can use powder with oil. Actually, mix those two up into a paste, not like toothpaste, but slightly more liquid. Then use you cosmetic sponge and apply this lightly. Stand back and let it dry. Study the pictures you took. That's the best thing you could possibly do.

For what you have accomplished so far, especially the first box car (pics) try this: Soak a rag and a cosmetic sponge in rubbing alchool. Then start removing the weathering you have done. Watch the result as you go......but don't tell anyone about this...

Your milleage may vary