NYS&W SD40T-2, 4 years and finally done


NYSW F45

Active Member
I was staring at my tunnel motor project yesterday afternoon and said, screw it! Im finishing this. I masked off the model that would not be sprayed black. Took me well over an hour, making sure it was as straight as possible. Sprayed the black on the model, then waited about 2 hours before decalling it. I had to use 2 seperate NYSW microscale sets to get the proper S ball and "NYSW" for the cab. Going to see if I have any decals that I can cut numbers from. Cab windows will be ordered soon so I can do the number boards.

Only thing that needs to be done is have it sent to Mark/mgswy for the ditch light and headlight install.
Pics for your enjoyment.
HOmodelcab.png

Prototype
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HOmodelfront.png

Prototype
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HOmodelrear.png

Prototype
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HOmodelside.png

Prototype
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Prototype photo's are not mine.
 
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I have all 3 tunnel motors that athearn did, all 3 SD45's, all 3 SD70M's. A custom painted FP45, didn't realize at the time there was a difference between f45/fp45. And I also bought a F45 from a member on here done for NYSW. I do want to get more of the models out there, specifically the Bicentennial Atlas model of 252.

My crazy goal is to get every NYSW model out there, not in brass as i dont have that type of money for 1 model.
 
Looks pretty good in general. The road name intials on the cab are pretty crooked, so I'd have another go at them before I finished it up. Your last picture shows a dip in the black paint line just behind the blower duct. This is a perfect place to use a Floquil paint marker to touch it up and get it straighter. I've even used black Sharpies with pretty good results.
 
I think it looks good so far, I did three Dash 9,s from undecorated models last year, and found that painting the truck side plates black,and painting the wheel centres rust brown, makes a real difference.
Ron
 
I love the SD40T-2s but god not with those awful snoot noses.

Anyways, the model looks great, ill be interested in seeing it with everything, im sure the trucks will make it look much different.
 
yea I didn't notice the decal beeing that way. I'll check them both out later and see if it can be fixed.

As for the paint, you only notice up close. People have said to use the "3 foot rule". Meaning from 3 feet if it looks good then some of the small mistaks are probably unnoticeable. But i'll see if i can work on it.
I'll be looking for numbers later, if I dont have numbers i'll order a set of decals with numbers on them. Im also checking out my decal sheets for the "warning, high voltage" decals for the doors.
 
Steve, the three foot rule generally works, but it's always a good idea to get things like paint stripes as close to straight as possible. As the view moves out, crooked things actually show up more, because it visually disrupts the shape of the locomotive. A little overspray isn't noticeable, but an obviously crooked line stands out. No point in leaving it like that when it's easily fixable.
 
Ok well i did fix the lopsided "nysw" on the cab. Took off that one and put on a new one. Also had a set of number decals from a shellscale number board set. These numbers just seem way to big for number boards, but worked perfectly on the side of the cab. I have one side done, will do the other tonight. I will try my best to work on that slanted paint line. While doing the decals it is pretty dam noticeable since you brought it to my attention. Im going to mask it off tonight and use some of my testors black paint in those little jars. Its pretty dam close to the krylon i used on this.
 
Got a pic of the re-lettered and new numbers added.
NYSW3014numberslogo.png


Also a pic of the roof detail I tried to copy to nearly exactly like the prototype.
NYSW3014ROOF.png

Prototype.
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