Non-risky method of ballasting turnouts.

[Andrey]

Hello. In video below I will show easy and non-risky method of ballasting turnouts. This method gives good results and is suitable for beginners and those modellers, who don't have large experience in ballasting. Ideal for ballasting complex turnouts (double slips and 3-way turnouts).

Here you can see turnout from this video completely ballasted:

https://imgur.com/NYOxUvd

 

[MHinLA]

1:57: This is known as celluloid or Scotch tape, not masking tape, even though you are in fact masking the area..
This is a very intelligent method you've developed..But I believe we may be too squeamish about dealing with ballasting/weathering switch tracks (TOs). Other than the points and throw bar it's just another running track..All we have to do is pour ballast same as other trackage and simply maneuver it so that the moving parts aren't being hindered and it's below the tie surfaces. Then we simply saturate the ballast with the glue and let it dry. Though when partially dry we re-check movements. If a pebble is in the way we'll see where it's doing this and break it away along with freeing up the throw bar. ..Ironically, at about 4:56 you are doing this anyway; leveling the ballast so as to be ready to be glued.
To me, making all those cuts in the cork, foam, other, is not necessary.. But again, your idea is well designed and I see nothing wrong with employing it.

PS. 7:26-20:55 That's quite a long time on one area ! Why not just go back and forth across all the ballast as is normally done ? And why drip the glue on top of tie ?

 

[Andrey]

This is a very intelligent method you've developed..But I believe we may be too squeamish about dealing with ballasting/weathering switch tracks (TOs).

To me, making all those cuts in the cork, foam, other, is not necessary.. But again, your idea is well designed and I see nothing wrong with employing it.
PS. 7:26-20:55 That's quite a long time on one area ! Why not just go back and forth across all the ballast as is normally done ? And why on top of tie ?

Hello. It is not very difficult to cut this bath in roadbed, if you use foam roadbed. For example, if you need to ballast double crossover, you can simply buy a sheet of foam roadbed and use scissors to cut a piece of roadbed corresponding to this crossover. Than you can again use scissors to cut 4 baths and do 45 degree bevels. There is no need to do bevels perfectly, because they will not be visible after ballasting. If you use scissors for all this operations, it will be very easy.
Of course you can use cork sheet, but in this case you will not have opportunity to use scissors.

Also, I tried to use traditional method of ballasting turnouts, but it is too risky and requires more caution. That's why I invented this new method. I recommend you to use this method to ballast expensive turnouts like double crossovers, 3-way turnouts and double-slips to prevent wasting of money and ensure their good operation.

I apply wet water and glue on top of sleeper, because it was fine grade ballast, and when you drop wet water directly on ballast, it will be disturbed. Also, if you drop several syringes of glue in the same point, you will get a crater in fine grade ballast. If you don't want to apply glue on sleeper, I recommend to apply wet water on top of sleeper anyway.

Also, I don't recommend to use speed ballasting when ballasting turnouts, especially blades area.

 

[MHinLA]

Andrey, sorry to bicker with you. The way you moisten the ballast with water, as to not disturb its position, is to use a spray bottle and let mist settle on ballast instead of directly at it. Entire area is wet as if it just rained on everything..The glue (half white glue / half water / one prop soap or alcohol ) is merely dropped on the moist ballast with an eye dropper, moving along the track in middle and shoulders of the roadbed a couple feet at a time...
I've belonged to 2 MRR clubs in/around Los Angeles,Ca. since 1978 and they've had no problem with ballasting switches this most common way.
Again, you've come up with a perfectly acceptable and admirable treatment. But I honestly don't think it has to be that tedious..It's only a matter of keeping the ballast below the surface of the ties (sleepers) and retaining a crevice for the throw rod, which is easily done using a toothpick while ballast is damp.

 

[Andrey]

The way you moisten the ballast with water, as to not disturb its position, is to use a spray bottle and let mist settle on ballast instead of directly at it. Entire area is wet as if it just rained on everything.

Hello. I try to keep sleepers under blades dry, because if I moist them with wet water, than it will be easier for diluted glue to climb up on the top surface of the sleepers, and in this case blades will be glued to the sleepers. That's why I apply wet water from syringe instead of spraying it on the entire turnout - to keep sleepers under blades dry.
Also, it is very important to prevent wet water from moisting the points (mechanism, which in my video I protected with scotch tape from the underside). If points will be moisted with wet water, it will be easier for diluted glue to get into them and block the turnout. This is another reason to apply wet water from syringe instead of spray.

The glue (half white glue / half water / one prop soap or alcohol ) is merely dropped on the moist ballast with an eye dropper, moving along the track in middle and shoulders of the roadbed a couple feet at a time...

I try to apply majority of glue far away from throwbar area. Because the closer you are to throwbar area, the closer blades to the stock rails, the more risk to glue blades to the stock rails. So I apply majority of glue as far from throwbar area as possible, and then glue flows under sleepers in longitudinal direction and saturates that area.
Besides, since I apply wet water only in one point, I cannot apply glue, moving along the track, until diluted glue, which flows under sleepers, will not moist another areas.
Also, I recommend to use syringe to apply glue instead of eye dropper, because syringe is more precise, and it is important when ballasting turnouts.

I've belonged to 2 MRR clubs in/around Los Angeles,Ca. since 1978 and they've had no problem with ballasting switches this most common way.

Of course, traditional method works, but it requires more caution and more preciseness.
One of the main advantages of this new method is that it forgives mistakes: if you accidentally drop too much glue, high capacity bath under turnout will easily absorb it.
Another advantage is that you can easily ballast complex turnouts, like double slips. Double slips are the easiest turnouts to ballast with this new method (LOL). All you need to do is to pour the glue to this point:

https://imgur.com/6QQUhUI

The glue will flow under double slip from this point in all directions, and the majority of ballast will be saturated from this one point.

 

[MHinLA]

Andrey, this will be my final reply...
Again I know you mean well and are trying to help others.. But, far as points (blades) getting glued to the ties (sleepers), we're talking water-soluble glue between two materials (delrin plastic and metal rails) that only encases or cocoons them, not penetrate them. And thus are able to break them away from one another with a small nudge and/or adding a drop of water here to loosen a teensy amount of this weak glue.. I've done it, as likely millions have over decades.. Further, if I understand you right, you are saying you leave ballast dry/unglued in certain areas..If so, don't forget that many occasionally vacuum tracks, and this would suck away the unglued ballast..
You're doing nothing that harms anything, and does work..But, again, it ain't that serious a concern. Even if it were hand-laid track with wooden ties, the rail is still metal and can be freed just as easily..I and many even spray paint track, going right through switches and crossings and nothing gets damaged. Only a brightboy or such is needed later to remove it from the rail heads...I've not once permanently frozen points or disturbed their electronic continuity, both painting them or gluing them..
Finally, over all this time since maybe 1953-ish when toy trains, due to the new HO scale, became more realistic, and with ballasting now being employed, have any but a few complained very much about the old method I describe..But this doesn't imply others shouldn't employ your method..
Cheers, Mark

 

[Andrey]

Hello, Mark.
Thank you for interest to this thread anyway. I wish you good luck in ballsating your turnouts, regardless of method you will choose.

 

[ianacole]

This is what's great about this hobby ... so many ways to accomplish what you want and none of them are wrong. Find what works for you, and go with it.

 

[Andrey]

This is another two good videos about ballasting (this videos are not my):

Ballasting process:

How to change ballast colour: