No movement


blackz28

Well-Known Member
I dragged out my proto 2k 2-8-8-2
Put it on the track dialed up the cab #
& got all the sounds but nothing else
No motor strain, nothing,anyone got a clue??
Thanks
 
If you know what the address reset to default 3 is for your decoder, maybe try that and start all over again. Most common seems to be CV8=8, but check first.
 
Most likely it needs maintenance...as in cleaning and lubing. The lube inside the drive tower may be more like ski wax than grease.
 
Most likely it needs maintenance...as in cleaning and lubing. The lube inside the drive tower may be more like ski wax than grease.
usually you get motor strain but I am going to clean it out just to be safe considering I bought this loco in 1999
 
I had trouble with a motor binding on a 20yr-old old Atlas/Roco Alco S-4 switcher. The way I found the problem was by reading the current draw on my RRAmpMeter - it went from 0.1 amp to over 1 amp whenever I turned up the throttle!:eek: Popped the shell and, sure enough, the gears had been 'frozen' by hardening of the grease.

That RRAmpmeter was one of the best investments I ever made in terms of troubleshooting loco problems.
 
I had trouble with a motor binding on a 20yr-old old Atlas/Roco Alco S-4 switcher. The way I found the problem was by reading the current draw on my RRAmpMeter - it went from 0.1 amp to over 1 amp whenever I turned up the throttle!:eek: Popped the shell and, sure enough, the gears had been 'frozen' by hardening of the grease.

That RRAmpmeter was one of the best investments I ever made in terms of troubleshooting loco problems.
I think I'm going to pick one up thanks
 
I dragged out my proto 2k 2-8-8-2
Put it on the track dialed up the cab #
& got all the sounds but nothing else
No motor strain, nothing,anyone got a clue??
Thanks

I have the BLI Class A 2-6-6-4, first DCC engine ever. First run. Couldnt run it DCC as I didnt have DCC yet. Sure, runs on DC. OK. Time passes, I try the engine, I have DCC now, try the engine, wont move, powers up.
So I open the engine, start poking, volt meter/ohm meter continuity, I see a small circuit board with wires on it, maybe one wire on the board looks odd, I get the soldering iron out, I heat up the sorta faulty looking one, voila! it runs. Thats a poor soldering joint, for safety I heat the other joints.
Lingering acid flux will tear at a connection.
Your problem may vary from this but it may take some poking around.
 
Have you tried resetting the decoder to factory defaults? Decoders have been known to "forget" their address from time to time. If you do not have a bunch of custom CV settings set up, you don't loose much by attempting this. I am surprised no one mentioned this troubleshooting step. Don't forget to cycle the power after performing the reset steps for your decoder. A list of the resets for different manufacturers can be found here:
https://ncedcc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/201489365-Master-list-of-Decoder-Resets-by-Manufacturer-
 
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I have had a decoder or 2 do this, doing a reset fixed it. I may have tried that on my A, but found that did not fix it. It has a little firebox glow light showing it has power, but my above post did it.
 
:pwait that's my loco :cool:
Tom, you said the engine is a Proto. Is it factory equipped with sound?
If it is, it has a QSI decoder, and has a three step reset procedure. Also, you have to push the f6 button to get it to move if the f9 button has been pushed.
 
I have a RRAmpmeter which I installed into one of my control panels and wired it directly to my track.

Greg
 
Tom, you said the engine is a Proto. Is it factory equipped with sound?
If it is, it has a QSI decoder, and has a three step reset procedure. Also, you have to push the f6 button to get it to move if the f9 button has been pushed.
no its just a crappy mrc sound decoder lol
 



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