New to Hobby DCC Layout Help

[jwbrock]

I'm relatively new to the model railroading hobby and I'm working on laying out and wiring up my layout for my DCC engine and controller. I'm having trouble when it comes to crossovers and wiring, and I'm uncertain if the parts I'm using will work with DCC or not.

The basic plan is to have an outer and inner loop with two remote crossovers (one right, one left) joining the two loops together so my train can move between them. I'm using almost entirely Bachmann EZ track. I'm not understanding how I can wire up or make the remote crossovers and the inner loop work. The parts I have are the #6 Remote Crossover Turnout - Right and Left versions (https://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2490 and https://shop.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2489).

Do these even work on a DCC layout? In addition to my DCC controller, I do have an old DC power supply I can use to run accessories. I did test without my DCC controller hooked up and the old power supply would trigger the switches back and forth. The question is, can these crossovers be used on this layout as is, do they require some modification, or what should I use instead? Attached you'll find something I threw together to plan the basic layout.

 

[timlange3]

DCC, DC, or AC, no difference. The key thing is are they power routing turnouts, does the position of the points determine what power goes down which rail? I assume they are not, if so, then wire the rails to your rail power and you are good to go. Wire the units to throw the points to your accessory power supply. If they are power routing turnouts you will need to gap the frog rails on each turnout.

 

[J.Albert]

I can't tell by looking at the pics, but do those crossovers have any kind of "insulated joints" between the two switches?

That's the way I'd set it up, just to be sure.
And then... run feeders to each "loop" (inside and outside).

 

[Selector]

If the two loops are parallel, wire them in parallel, including the two crossovers. IOW, both loops, inside rail pos or neg, your choice, but repeat that on the outer loop. No conflicts. You're wondering if the crossovers constitute a possible confound electrically. They do not. Only when you loop back on yourself, a looped or balloon track that enters and exits one turnout joining both ends of the loop...THAT is a conflict. Similarly, a 'turning wye' configuration where you turn a locomotive or an entire train to allow it to return in the other direction. When you throw the points to allow a train to cross over, the points are still lined electrically pos to pos and neg to neg.

 

[jwbrock]

Thank you all for the advice. Reporting back after testing and figuring out what works for future reference.

The Bachmann EZ track crossovers appear to work with DCC out of the box - meaning, I didn't have to do any wiring modifications in order to make the full layout DCC. The switch action on these crossovers aren't DCC, but they can be connected to accessory power on a standard power supply and operated that way. No issues with unpowered track or shorts, layout is working great.

P.S. I did modify my layout slightly because the model bridge I built just wasn't holding up to the weight of my locomotive. When the train went over it, the bridge would sag in the middle, causing the front wheels of my 4-8-4 to lose contact and the train to derail. I decided to go the less visual but vastly more functional route of using EZ track braced with a closet shelf track underneath. I used the top framework of the bridge model over the bridge - hopefully it will look okay once I get everything painted, etc.

 

[Jim at BSME]

A word of caution as far as I know the black "ballasted" track has steel rails vs the nickel silver of the grey. This may cause performance issues if you are running in a place with high humidity. The steel can oxidize (i.e. rust) and cause electrical pickup issues with your locomotives.

There are ways to prevent/mitigate this (besides replacing with nickel silver) such as cleaning with a bright boy, running regularly, and wiping the rails with mineral spirits. The last will leave an lite coating on the rails, which you want to prevent the oxygen in the air from getting to the rails causing the oxidation/rust. With the mineral spirits just take a damp rag and wipe the rails, do not dry them afterwards, as long as you didn't soak the rails. If you do use a bright boy to clean the rails recommend wiping and/or vacuuming them afterwards to pick up and stray bits of the bright boy.

There are other methods to clean and keep rails clean, but each modeler swears by what works for them, sometimes it seems to be regardless of the experimentation/testing of others.

 

[ctclibby]

JW: As a side note, nickel silver also oxidizes except that oxidization is somewhat conductive. Also, you might think about not using a bright-boy on NS rail as it is abrasive and can scratch the rail. Those tiny scratches then hold dirt/crap/whatever; besides your wheels picking up that dirt and ..um.. tracking it around, you could loose some conduction in those locations. It has been my experience that 'burnishing' the rail with a fender washer ( or the like ) keeps them bright, shiny and scratch free. I have not tried mineral spirits - if it is non-polar, probably ok to use that too. Just remember when taking care of your track, do all wheelsets too, else you are beating a dead horse.

L8r

 

[RhB Michael]

And those scratches from the Scotch-Brite pad can lead to micro-arcing which puts more carbon on the track and completes this vicious never ending cleaning circle.

 

[rgeiter]

JW: As a side note, nickel silver also oxidizes except that oxidization is somewhat conductive. Also, you might think about not using a bright-boy on NS rail as it is abrasive and can scratch the rail. Those tiny scratches then hold dirt/crap/whatever; besides your wheels picking up that dirt and ..um.. tracking it around, you could loose some conduction in those locations. It has been my experience that 'burnishing' the rail with a fender washer ( or the like ) keeps them bright, shiny and scratch free. I have not tried mineral spirits - if it is non-polar, probably ok to use that too. Just remember when taking care of your track, do all wheelsets too, else you are beating a dead horse.

L8r

No-ox is my choice of scratch filler.