New Layout critique


A

athompso

New Member
Hi,

I'm new to the forum. I've been modeling railroads on my own, off and on for the last 15 years. I am in the planning stages for my third layout, which is by far my most advanced endeavor. My current layout is a 4 x 8, using KATO HO unitrack and NCE DCC. This layout will be in a finished attic space, where I will have 13 x 14 feet available. I have designed the layout on a CAD program and plan to continue using KATO HO unit rack on a 12 x 11 feet layout. Table width is 30 in and overall table height will be short at about 30" due to sloped ceilings. I would prefer standing height but sitting height will have to do, to maximize layout size. I'm looking for ideas and thoughts on the layout that I may have missed. Thanks!

View attachment Attic Layout.pdf
 
i think you will have a difficult time getting a train out of the yard. the yard ladder could connect to the mainline at the top of the siding where you have a turnout for the engine shop. if you want a yard lead, it could extend from that point thru the space where the engine shop is. The engine shop can be at the bottom.

I think your yard could be longer if it were between the wall and siding. The yard tracks could extend to the bottom of the benchwork and a combined yard lead and engine shop track can extend to the top of the benchwork.

i don't think it necessary to have a classification yard where trains are made up sorting cars. It could just be some lengthy staging tracks holding trains, including passenger. A train would go out and drop-off and pick-up cars and return to the yard. Another train would go out and do the same. cars would end up on different trains in the yard.

some additional industries could be added on the left side.

on the right side, i think the short siding labeled as a run-around is redundant. there might be more space for industries if they were on both sides of the mainline (next to the wall.

attic.PNG
 
I echo everything that Greg said, but if nothing else, get rid of the runaround on the right side. Use the main as a runaround. Turn those switches around and add industries on the right. But I am partial to switching industries.
Willie
 
I am in total agreement. I have two towns on my layout where I use the main line as a run around. Greg mentioned the possibility of additional industries along the wall. Easily done with some of Walthers kits made for just this reason. I have three of them on my layout. They work great.

Here's a photo. One is behind the coaling tower and another off to the far right.

IMAG0383.jpg
 
athompso said:
I'm looking for ideas and thoughts on the layout that I may have missed.
Click to expand...
Agree with prior posters. A yard where cars can only be added one or two at a time via a switch back is of limited use.

Without changing it too much the yard lead could be swung that around the corner to make it longer and giving more room to get more cars in and out simultaneously. And the main and passenger tracks on the top could be switched so that a connection for the yard could be made there.

Haven't decided if my alternate run around location makes sense or not. Oh, I see what I was thinking now. Ignore that part. I was thinking making it more like a ladder bypass track.
anIdea.png
 
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There this is more what my brain meant. Could of course be cleaned to make the tracks parallel by making it a compound ladder, or by removing the curves from the track marked 'run around'.
View attachment 55755
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updatedplan.png
 
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All great advice, nothing to add just now really.
Track plans kind of evolve as they go, you've got a good start!
 
Thank you to all, Here is an updated Plan

First of all, I would like to say thank you, for the constructive ideas! Very much appreciated. After a couple days of work and thought, Today, I had time to work on this, and I believe I have incorporated most if not all of your changes and added some details as well. I'm very interested in your thoughts and am anxious to begin to dismantle the old layout and start tables for the new one. Again, any ideas are certainly welcome.

Alex

View attachment Attic Layout Take 2.pdf
 
I like it much better! It is begging for trains to be runing now. If it were mine, I only see two things I would change that are so minor I'm not even going to mention them.
 
The yard looks a lot better. But you've got several S-turns that could cause problems. There are two on the right side where the main line jogs over. Try to keep the main line straight. Also, at lower left there's a stepped ladder. Keep the ladder straight like the ladder at the top of the yard.

Steve S
 
Thanks Iron & Steve,

I'll work to straighten the lower left stepped ladder and the right side main line when I build the layout. On to table construction. My first table was a 4 x 8 box frame, with all 2x4 lumber. My second layout was L-Girder open frame with 1x4 and 2x2 lumber, both with plywood tops. I'm considering a different mixed approach this time, do to my personal time constraints and desire to spend more time on track, scenery and modeling structures and less time on bench work. I'm thinking about Sievers bench work for the frames, I'll build my own leg structures, and a double 2" layer of foam for the top.

The cost difference from all hand built frames works about to be about $500 more for Sievers, but if I figure in my time for the Carpentery work I'm wondering if it's worth buying the prefab stuff? Has anybody used the Sievers product, what do you think?

I'm also looking to do the double 2" foam top instead of plywood. The whole structure would be lighter and it would allow some below grade scenery (i.e. River, swamps, etc.). This seem to be the trend?

Alex
 
I'd think long and hard before buying any ($$$$) premade benchwork. True, it can be a time saver, but unless I had zero carpentry skills or absolutely no place to make benchwork, I'd do it myself.

There's a large variety of benchwork that people have used successfully - foam alone, foam on hollow core doors, L-girder, steel, etc. Same for legs - I personally have been experimenting with 3-in PVC pipe for legs.

Revision 2 of your plan looks much better, but I'll echo the comments about the S-curves on the right side.
 
As far as bench work goes I've been building 2' X X' modules and 2X2 legs. I have a fear of having to move and want to be able to disassemble as much of it as I can. 2' X 4', 6' up to 8'. So you could make them any size you want. I'm using 1" X 4" frame and covering with 1/4" plywood then foam. Just be sure to place cross supports every foot or so between the long sides to strengthen the top.
 
athompso said:
I'm also looking to do the double 2" foam top instead of plywood. The whole structure would be lighter and it would allow some below grade scenery (i.e. River, swamps, etc.).
Click to expand...
that is a lot of foam. I don't know that I would use a double sheet of foam everywhere. Perhaps just add the extra sheet where you want the additional depth/height?
 
Thanks for the comments Guys! I'm going to scratch build the benchwork, it just makes more sense. Just more time consuming. Probably 1x4 box framed tables with 2x2 legs, 1/4 or 3/8" plywood and one 2" foam for the top. Math works out to about $400 total.

BeachBum, I'm curious how your connecting and supporting the PVC Legs?

Alex
 
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