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Hey i have been modeling for my whole life. i like the realism. i started a 4x12 layout. all the great detail in the layouts i have seen, but i dont; see any track terminals and switch wiring. where u guys hiding it . did u soder the the track power and not use the terminals? And why can't u fine dummy or unpowered engines! i don't see to many trains running in the real world with one engine. i know u can make one from an old one but they would be cheaper just to buy it unpowered. thanks!
Scott, many of us do indeed solder power wires directly to the web of the rails. It's more reliable than a terminal track or joiner and is almost invisible when the track is ballasted. With a 4x12, you'll probably want to run some power wires under the layout (called a power bus) and then take smaller wires from the bus up through the layout board and solder more power leads about every three to five feet. This makes sure you get consistent voltage in the tracks, which is really important if you're going to use DCC.
Lets start with multiple locos or consist. What dcc system are you using? Your system may support constists. You can program multiple loco's to one consist which you can control like one locomotive. If your system doesn't, I have seen some people just program two locos with the same address. Thats about the depth of my knowledge I'll let someone else chime in .Now for switches. I assume you are using an atlas (or similar type) switch machine. There are many choices that look (and function) better. Under the table options include Tortises, which are pretty much the best you an buy ( http://www.circuitron.com/index_files/Tortoise.htm ), there are also atlas under the table switch machines which are pretty low quality and hard to install but it can be done ( https://secure.atlasrr.com/mod1/Itemdesc.asp?CartId={A3EA64EVEREST22-9E6B-4BC2-B6E2-3A5F3FE36B6D}&ic=0065&eq=&Tp= ) and blue points which are manual and require you to be fairly close to operate them ( http://www.newrailmodels.com/BluePoint.htm ), ground throws are mounted next to the switch and are easy to install and cheap ( http://www.cabooseind.com//pr1.html ), and there are many other small manufacturers and homemade options like these http://home.earthlink.net/~grleone/ar-turnout.htm . Hope this helps.
Yes, Scott all the power connections to your track would come from one power bus leading from your DCC controller to the bus wires that would be suspended under the layout.
thanks guys i do have the tech set multiple locos on one address. do all engines run the same. i have one new one that runs good and an older one that have no in between speed. its fast or stops.
Scott, what kind of DCC system are you using? Usually, setting multiple locomotives to the same address is not the right way to set up a consist. Without answering questions you are asked, it's hard to give you much advice.
Same with the engines. Are both DCC? Who made them and what model are they? Which one is the old one and which one is the new one. Please take the time to answers the questions completely.
atlas dcc, conrail bachman dcc witch is the new one. i bought a norfolk southern off ebay, not sure who made it. sd70 i beleive. I notice it would go around the whole layout 3 or 4 times and derail sometimes on the turn 18 degree. its like the trucks don't have enough radias.
Scott, there is no such thing as Atlas DCC. I'm asking about the actual controller you are using for your DCC system. It should be something like Bachman, Digitrax, NCE, or MRC. A model number would help also. I'm assuming you meant an Atlas DCC equipped locomotive. Again, what model? What model is the Bachmann? In general, Atlas engines run better than Bachmann so it sounds like the older Atlas engine needs to be cleaned and lubed.
If you have 18" radius curves, an SD70 is going to have a tough time staying on the tracks. Some companies make engines that have compromises so they will run on 18" curves while others make true scale models and need at least a 26" radius. There should be a brand name somewhere on the bottom of the locomotive or at least the paperwork that came with the engine. I'm assuming the seller listed the manufacturer. Buying anything off e-bay without knowing who made it is a dangerous idea since the very same model of locomotive can be superb from one company and junk from another. If you don't know who made the engine, post a picture here and one of us can identify it and give you better advice.
im sorry its an athearn. and my dcc controller is atlas. so any sd7o's, or d9-40cw won't run on 18 degrees, because i want to order some d9-40cw, and possibly a sd80mac, ge 6000
OK, so you must have an Atlas Commander DCC controller. This is actually a rebadged Lenz system and not bad except for some shortcomings, like only have two digit adressing. You need to read through the documentation again as the Commander is capable of consisting as long as the lead engine has a decoder that has this capability.
To get our terms right, you have 18" radius curves, not 18 degrees. Just about anything will run on an 18 degree curve. 18" radius curves will handle four wheel locomotives like GP-9's and freight cars 50' and under. Running an SD70 or GE 6000 is really out of the question. It might be possible to make them stay on the track most of the time with absolutely perfect trackwork but you'll still get derailments, especially if you try to run two of these big engines in a consist. You need to either lower your sights in terms of motive power or find a way to make you minimum mainline curve at least 22" radius. 26" would be more preferable for the size engines you want to run.
thanks jim Im starting over. im just going to run a 2to3 ft wide board down and around my room. 22 curves going to be enough. and how wide at the corner will it need to be to make the turn.
Scott, are you going to run the layout around the entire room, giving you a loop? If so, 3 feet wide will allow you to easily fit in 24" curves. If you're going to make something like an "L" or "H" shaped layout, you need four foot wide blobs at the ends to have a return loop with 22" radius curves. Just take 22 times 2 to give you the space you need. In this case, it's 44" but you need to have some space between the tracks and layout edge so the train doesn't go flying off into space when it derails. 48", or 4 feet is the realistic minimum layout width.
.Now for switches. I assume you are using an atlas (or similar type) switch machine. There are many choices that look (and function) better. Under the table options include Tortises, which are pretty much the best you an buy ( 