N&W SD40-2 construction

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R

River Run

Diesel Detailer
I've done much more work on my N&W SD40-2. Here's a shot for posterity. You'll find many more shots over at the Diesel Detailer site.

sd40fx.jpg
 


I've added the I-beam detail to the frame rails, added more detail to the air tanks, brake vent regulator valve, and the motion light under the cab.

sd40y1.jpg


sd40y2.jpg



sd40y4.jpg



sd40y7.jpg
 
That's coming along wonderfully! Now, N&W only had a few high short hood SD40-2s, like 11 or so, right?

I'm anxiously awaiting your sideframe mods:)
 
Looking good so far Randy. Nice detail work on the under frame components. One question, are the top two grabs on the short hood supposed to be upside down? I'm not an NS/NW/SOU expert, but I've never seen them like that.

N&W ordered 28 high short hood SD40-2's, Southern got 128 of them.
 
Big difference, eh?

1635.jpg


sd40y1.jpg


nw1635a.jpg



Fred, I've got pics I took here in the Conneaut Yards with them that way. I was told by Captain Windex it was easier to grab the high ones when they turned them around.
 
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jbaakko said:
Randy, how'd you accomplish the I beam? Might be a nice addition to detailing my SD40-2's.
Click to expand...

Well, if you remember my older photos, I Dremeled the original gobbletygook off the frame to the sills. I then cut plastic 1 scale foot wide and applied it to the frame making sure that it would clear the bottom of the shell when put back together. Then I cut a thin strip of plastic and applied it to the bottom edge to form an I beam. This would work the same on any Athearn frame like the GP38-2/GP40-2/GP-50/60 or the SDs. Got the idea from Christopher Slemp's website. http://people.umass.edu/cslemp/frame_fuel_tank.htm
 
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Awesome Randy, I completely forgot about Chris's GP40-2. I'll have to test that out on the GP50 chassis I'm working on... Need some bigger files though.
 


River Run said:
Well, if you remember my older photos, I Dremeled the original gobbletygook off the frame to the sills. I then cut plastic 1 scale foot wide and applied it to the frame making sure that it would clear the bottom of the shell when put back together. Then I cut a thin strip of plastic and applied it to the bottom edge to form an I beam. This would work the same on any Athearn frame like the GP38-2/GP40-2/GP-50/60 or the SDs. Got the idea from Christopher Slemp's website. http://people.umass.edu/cslemp/frame_fuel_tank.htm
Click to expand...

Heh... looks like you did a better job than I did :-) I'm glad that website has been of some help to someone seeing as how it used up more of my modeling time than the actual locomotive.

Anyway, looking good.

Chris
 
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