N scale Steam Locomotive Quality

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Dameon

Member
After a near 12 year hiatus from the hobby (college, job, family, etc) I am getting back into it. When I "paused" from the hobby I was working in N scale. I am now wanting to do an 1920-1940s era layout, so I'll be running steam locomotives. When I left, steam locomotives in N scale were extremely poor runners, often only working well when run at near full throttle. I've heard that the quality has improved immensely in the past decade, but I am still very dubious. I intend to do a good bit of switching on this layout and I like to run trains at slower speeds (around scale 40mph) rather than full throttle.

So, can how do the current offerings of N scale steam locomotives perform? Do they run well enough to reliably perform low speed switching duties? Which manufactures are making good steam locos now (if any) and whose locos should I stay away from?
 
I have 6 of the Bachman Spectrum steam engines. I have 3 2-8-0's, 2 4-8-2's and 1 2-6-6-2. These engines all run well. The 4-8-2's and the 2-6-6-2 seem to be light pullers which might not matter on a small layout.

I also have a Model Power 4-6-2 that runs very well.

Glenn
 
The Walthers Steamers run good... if you get a good one. I have seen about 20+ that came from the factory with disconnected side rods and numerous other problems...

There are a lot of mods to them also... tweaks to the drawbar... added weight and a few others...

Try a Walthers 0-8-0... if you get a good one it should be a decent yard goat...
 


Wow, that nscalesupply looks like a great site! I was having a lot of trouble tracking down who made engines and finding pictures of them. The Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 looks exactly like what I'd need to have working on my branch line...

Despite the great offerings the real clincher for me is going to be how well they run. I won't know for sure if I am satisfied until I get to try some out on the test track at the LHS. That said, I was actually there today and they had a single Bachmann 2-6-2 Prairie in stock, undecorated at that! Depending on how the test run went I was all set to give it a good home... The owner took it out and we set it up on the test track only to find out it was defective and not picking up any power. Not a good start, but I have just enough hope for a smooth running N-scale steamer left that I was able to stay myself from walking out with a new HO 2-6-0 instead.
 
N scale steam is lightyears beyond where it was 10-15 years ago. I started in the dark ages of N steam and I can tell you, now is a great time for this scale and steam!

The Bachmann regular line, like the 0-6-0, 2-6-2, and the 4-8-4 have all been mechanically reworked (extensively) to near Spectrum standards in the last few years and are now reasonable decent performers. The shells have not been upgraded and could stand some work to make them look better, but thats the easy part, right? The shells and mechanics can be tweeked to work out quite well. You can tell the good ones to get by the jewel case they come in and they all have blackened drivers. I have three of the 4-8-4's and they do well (I'd recommend adding electrical pickup to all of the tender wheels, but thats just me). Now the regular line 4-8-4 is not to be confused with the Spectrum 4-8-4 that just came out. They are very different animals, and they even look different. The new Spectrum is a model of the N&W Streamliner, while the standard line 4-8-4s a regular Northern like in my picture.

(click to enlarge)
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I've run the 0-6-0 and the 2-6-2 on friends layouts and they are respectable as well. The old Bachmann 4-4-0 has gotten some new paint in the last few years, but it's performance is still sub-standard. It has not been mechanically reworked.

The Bachmann Spectrum line is much better then the regular line. There were some quality control issues at first, but those have gotten better. It's always a good idea to try before you buy though.

The 2-8-0 is probably the second best steamer in all of N scale, second only to the Kato Mikado (with traction tire upgrade). It will creep along at mind numbingly slow speeds and it has a good drawbar pull. It will also pull well on a grade. If you were only going to buy 1 steamer, I'd probably suggest this one, even though it's not the top dog. Why? Because it's close in performance to the Kato, but it's usually about half the price. I have 4 of these loco's and have been nothing but pleased with them.

The Bachmann Spectrum 4-8-2 Light Mountain is another great loco as it shares much with the 2-8-0 already mentioned. (Click to enlarge)

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It does have one issue though, and that is a light drawbar pull. The reason is, the traction tired axles journal is just a fraction too deep, causing the wheel with the tire to have light contact with the rail, thereby limiting it's effectiveness. There are two easy cures for this though, and they turn this loco from an "also ran" to a star. The first is to simply loosen the plate on the bottom that holds the axles in, then carefully lift the traction tire axle to where you can rotate the journal block 90 degrees. Be carefull to keep the gears meshing on all the same teeth, as messing this up will cause very poor performance. If you don't feel brave enough, there is another way. What you do is looen the plate that holds the axles, then lift the journal block enought to slip a small sliver of masking tape between the journal block and the frame. Now reassemble. Your Light Mountain will now be a stump puller! I have 2 of these loco's and am happy with them after some light tinkering.

The Bachmann Spectrum 4-8-2 Heavy Mountain is by all accounts an excellent loco needing no tweeks to provide excellent service on your pike. I do not have one of these loco's, nor have I had the opportunity to run one, so I can only go on what I've heard from friends. So far, I've only heard good stuff. Being a newer loco, the price is still up there a bit.

The Bachmann Spectrum 2-6-6-2 is another loco I do not have. I have heard varying reports on it, everything from a fine loco to a light puller, but nothing horrifying.

OK, on to Athearn!

They only have three steamers, and only one of their own design, so lets take a look, shall we?

The 2-6-0 & 2-8-0 were originally designed by MDC before they got bought out by Horizon Hobbies, who also owns Athearn. (Click to enlarge)

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They are both 1890's designs, so these are a throwback to another era a little bit. Thats not necessarily a bad thing though. These loco's would have made it in various states of repair on shortlines and rundown roads well into the 1930's and maybe into the 40's, so they are usable, but in a slightly different manner for your era. They also look slightly "off" when you first look at them. Something seems a little out of place. Some say the cab is too short, others say the tender is too tall, and still others say that the tender just isn't long enough. Whatever the case, there is a prototype for them and they do match the prototype, I just can't seem to remember the road name that they matched right now (NP maybe?). It's OK though, the looks can be changed if it bothers you. The easiest to change is the cab height. This is a tender drive loco, so modifying the tender is real work. It can be done though. Here are some instructions for modifying the cab: (Click to enlarge)

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Now, I have 2 of the 2-8-0's, and 1 of the 2-6-0's, and they are all excellent runners and good pullers. Slow speed control is excellent as they can creep quite nicely. They rank near the top of the list. Just a side note: If you buy the MDC version of these loco's (still available in some places) you'll probably pay less, but you'll get Rapido couplers so you'll have to probably change those out for Micro-Trains. One of the MDC's also doesn't come with a working coupler on the front, but I forget which one. If you buy the newer Athearn version you'll get working Accumate couplers on the front and back of both loco's.

OK, the other Athearn loco is the Challenger. It has sound and DCC on board. From all accounts it's a decent performer, but I've not had a chance to run one.

The Walthers loco's (used to be Life-Like before they were bought out) are all very good loco's, though they can be challenging to add DCC to, so that might be a concideration. I don't own any myself, but I've run the Berk and the 0-8-0 and they were both very fine loco's. I'd have them in my fleet.

Kato only makes one steamer, the Mikado. It is still considered the gold standard once it has the traction tire upgrade. Without that upgrade it's only a moderate performer. As a bonus, the newest release of this loco finally has all of those miniscule detail parts attached at the factory, so no more going blind trying assemble them!

Model Power has tried to really boost their image in the last few years, but it's been somewhat of an uphill battle. They tend to be good looking loco's with decent slow speed control, but they're light pullers. The Pacific had a traction tire upgrade available for a while, and that made it a good performer, but those kits have long since sold out everywhere that I know of. They sold out because they not only fit the Pacific, but they also fit the 4-4-0 (which some feel is slightly oversized), making both excellent performers. The first batch of 4-4-0's to come over had to be recalled because of a poor wire connection between the loco and the tender, causing the loco to die sometimes within minutes of taking to the rails, so if you get one of these loco's, check that out. The subsiquent ones were all fine that I know of. I've had 1 4-4-0 and thought it was a decent loco. Another point of note: the electrical pickup on these loco's is by the old wiper system. Not the most reliable method out there.

And that leaves Con-Cor. The 2-10-2 and the Hudson are probably the best of the bunch, but the whole line is slowly being fazed out and the tooling and mechanics on these are a decade or more old, so if you were familliar with them before they'll seem like old hat.

Atlas has two steamers of late, a two truck Shay, which is an excellent loco, and an 1870's or so styled 2-6-0. The 2-6-0 is a decent loco, but it's light so it's not a big puller. To be fair though, neither was it's prototype. I believe it's based on a Micro-Ace design, and they make really nice foriegn steamers. The Shay is a fine runner and a jewel to have on any layout. Atlas should do more steamers if you ask me.

Thats about all I know of. Hope that helps!

(Sorry I rambled on like that)
 
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pcarrell: Awesome response, thank you a lot!

The 2-8-0 was #1 on my "to get" list if I decided to stay with N scale, followed by the 4-8-4s and 4-8-2s. The 2-8-0 would be my primary locomotive for when I am having my fun with the layout while I'd use the larger road engines for when I just want to do some continuous running and/or show off the layout.

Now that we've discussed how they run I have a few more questions. I have not yet decided on a prototype to model yet, but I know I want a coal hauling line set somewhere in the Appalachian region of north east. I am leaning towards either the Pennsylvania RR, a totally freelance line, or the Boston and Maine (which as far as I know was not a coal hauler). I know there are very few Pennsy locos at the moment. What is that availability of decals and transfers like for N scale since I may need to be painting my own locos?
 
pcarrell: Awesome response, thank you a lot!

No problem, it was actually kind of fun to go through and rate my own loco's.

The 2-8-0 was #1 on my "to get" list if I decided to stay with N scale, followed by the 4-8-4s and 4-8-2s. The 2-8-0 would be my primary locomotive for when I am having my fun with the layout while I'd use the larger road engines for when I just want to do some continuous running and/or show off the layout.

For a show off loco those would work. They would actually work for a regular use loco too, though the Light Mountain was more of a passenger loco then the others. It did do some freight though, so it wouldn't be out of place with that.

One thing about "show off" loco's......they need to look spectacular in some way. Either they are exquisitly detailed, a loco never made in N scale, or something with lots of "gee whiz" factor. To that end, the mallets (with all the parts whizzing around and around), like the Challenger, available with sound would be a good choice if you have the curves for it. Also, one I barely mentioned earlier is a company called Micro Ace. They make Asian styled steam loco's, among other things, and they are all VERY fine runners. Most of them are not very North American looking, but they have a 2-6-0 (if memory serves) and a 2-6-6-2 mallet that look pretty N.A. and could be made to look moreso. The 2-6-6-2 is on the smallish side, like a large logging mallet, so it does well on tighter curves. They aren't real popular here in the states, but if you can find one, I'd snap it up!

Now that we've discussed how they run I have a few more questions. I have not yet decided on a prototype to model yet, but I know I want a coal hauling line set somewhere in the Appalachian region of north east. I am leaning towards either the Pennsylvania RR, a totally freelance line, or the Boston and Maine (which as far as I know was not a coal hauler). I know there are very few Pennsy locos at the moment. What is that availability of decals and transfers like for N scale since I may need to be painting my own locos?

You're right, the B&M was not a coal hauler really.

The Penn RR would be a good coice from the standpoint that you could get lots of RTR and kit equipment easily, and decal sets should be no problem. The down side is that a lot of Penn RR equipment was very unique to that road, so you'd have to contend with that.

The N&W and the C&O might be good choices to consider too, as might the WM.

Myself, I'm a protolancer. I have a prototype that I loosely follow, but I make believable allowences to work in features that I want that my prototype didn't include. This gives me something to refer to when I need, but it also allows for some freedom.

The choosing of a prototype, or freelancing / protolancing, is a very personal choice. It's one that only you can make.

Now, let me pass on some places I've delt with in the past that are reputable places in my experience. I know I said to try before you buy, but sometimes that isn't where you get the best choice (or price). Each one of the places list below has always worked hard in the past with me to make sure I'm 100% satasfied in the end. Several of them are places that I bought a loco from and when it arrived it didn't work. One of them returned two loco's before I had a good one. They tested the good one themselves before they sent it, and when it arrived I was a happy camper.

The first place is Trainworld. Just about the best prices you're going to find, but it's mostly closeout stuff, so it's not always the latest and greatest. When you call, have your part number handy as the people manning the phones are typical New Yorkers. They're rather short and abrupt. They also wouldn't know a train from a lunar lander, so have that part number. The website is: http://www.trainworld.com/ BTW, this is the place that replaced my loco twice, so they do stand behind their stuff.

The next place is N Scale Supply. They simply ROCK! http://www.nscalesupply.com/CatalogMain.html

Wig-Wag, LLC has been around since like the dawn of time. Run like a Mom & Pop shop, it's a place that has most everything and if you need to call and ask questions they'll be there for you. http://www.wig-wag-trains.com/

Aspenmodel is quite pricey and a little hard to get ahold of. Email seems to get responses best. The thing is, they have some very unique stuff that simply can't be had elsewhere. http://www.aspenmodel.com/

Republic Locomotive Works deals with mostly small steam and Nn3 stuff. They have TONS of detail parts though, so you can really set you loco apart from the crowd. https://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/

I've delt with other places too, like Gold Metal Models ( http://www.goldmm.com/nscale/gmnrrtyp.htm ), Sylvan Scale Models ( http://isp.ca/Sylvan/ ), and Musket Miniatures ( http://www.musketminiatures.com/ ), but not enough that I'd give them a full recommendation. I haven't had any problems with any of them, it's just that I've only delt with them a little bit, so I wouldn't stake my rep on it.

Now there, I went and did it again! Man, I feel like I've written a book today......oh wait, I just about did!

Oh well, off to my corner!
 
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I will admit I am new to steam as prior to this I modeled modern roads (Conrail mostly, with some Norfolk Southern and CSX thrown in). So my histological knowledge on this area is still thin (but I'm researching!).

I know Penn ran a lot of unique equipment, but I really like the look of most of it. Would the current locos on the market be good to use (needing painted and lettered though since not many have Penn as an available road name) or would I need to do a lot of kit bashing as well? I don't mine the repainting, the kit bashing is something I'd like to avoid.

I used to live next to a B&M mainline (it was Conrail then), and a short walk from where my hometown town used to have a depot. It and all the siding and other local rail served business were long gone. So I have something of a historical interest in the B&M.

I just don't know much about other coal haulers of that period and local.

By "show off" I meant the trains I'd run when family or friends are over to show them the layout. These are people whose only experience with model trains is stepping on the ones around the Christmas tree.
 
The biggest tipoff to a loco being a more Pennsyish design is the presence of a Belpaire firebox. That was a common feature for loco's on that road. It is usually seen as a large, squarish box in front of the cab. None of the current loco offerings have that feature that I'm aware of. There are a few loco's of the past, namely a few of the old Minitrix loco's that have that feature, but then you either have to retrofit those bodies onto current loco's to get decent running or you go back to less then stellar performance. One other option is a kit put out by GHQ I think. It's a proper Pennsy body for the Kato Mikado. I hear it's not an easy white metal kit to work with though, so I don't know if you'd be up for it.

Here is a short description on the three main firebox types found on steamers. It's by no means exhaustive, but it's a good start. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firebox_(steam_engine)

Lastly, there was another large road that I forgot about earlier that hauled some coal, and that was the Reading RR.
 
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I haven't been into N Scale long, but I just got a Bachman Spectrum 4-8-4 and I am really impressed by how well it runs. running it at low speeds is no problem, that's the way I prefer to run it anyway, there's something about the driving gear working at very low speeds that is so impressive, especially at this scale! it will crawl along the track at less than 5 smph with no problem, I haven't actually clocked it yet though. I even had it running up hill pulling cars at this speed and it never flinched a bit. another thing about it that I'm impressed with is how quiet it is. virtually silent compared to my older N scale models which I bought or was given used. it also has nice LED lights on it which are impressively bright!
 
Thanks to everyone who replied, this thread was a tremendous help to me. While continuing to look at the various N scale steamers out there I ran across this site:

N Scale Steam Encyclopedia

I figured it deserves a mention here for anyone else who might come along and read this thread.
 
Ahhh, Marks (known as Spookshow on a few different forums, particularly the Atlas site) site! Yeah, he's got a great reference site there. Don't know why I didn't point you there before................
 
My 2 Cents.

Hello, Dameon. My first decent steamer was a Model Power 4-6-2 Pacific. It is a smooth runner but a bit noisy. It is also an early model without traction tires so it's not a strong puller, but I still love it.

Next I got a Bachmann Spectrum 4-8-2 Light Mountain which is also a smooth runner and alot quieter. My trackwork is not the smoothest and has numerous turnouts so I have problems running the 4-8-2 and 4-6-2 in reverse on alot of my layout. Which brings me to the 2-8-0...

My latest aquisition, a Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 Consolidation, is smooth running and quiet and is a true champ at negotiating all of the problem spots on my layout. It never gets hung up on turnouts or sidings, regardless of which direction I run it in.

Hope this helps.
 
Hey Nick, make sure that your wheels are in guage on those loco's. Bachmann is notorious for being a bit out of guage, and fixing that will help a bunch on the points picking and guard rail riding issues. Also, on the 4-8-2 Bmann, rotate the axle blocks on the traction tire'd axle 90 degrees and she'll pull a LOT better.
 
Hey Nick, make sure that your wheels are in guage on those loco's. Bachmann is notorious for being a bit out of guage, and fixing that will help a bunch on the points picking and guard rail riding issues. Also, on the 4-8-2 Bmann, rotate the axle blocks on the traction tire'd axle 90 degrees and she'll pull a LOT better.

Thanks, Phillip I'd like to give that a try...as I have never done such a thing as rotate the axle blocks is that hard to do? Without taking up too much of your time is there a quick explanation, recommended reading or a link to a site that can walk me thru the procedure?
 
Flip the loco over, then carefully remove the bottom plate holding all the axles in. You don't want the gears to move (as in change teeth) as that will cause the loco to run poorly. The teeth have to mesh up the same after the job as they do before. For that reason I usually use a sharp pencil (since its really graphite you don't have to do any cleanup after because graphite is a lubricant) to mark the exact teeth that are meshed on the traction tire'd axle. Now here's the tricky part (an engine dolly or someone else holding the loco while you do this is a BIG plus). carefully lift the TT axle out of the frame just a little bit without disturbing the other axles. Just lift it enough to slip in a hobby knife and rotate the block 90 degrees. Do one side at a time. Once done, slide the axle back in place, making sure the teeth line up, and button the whole thing up. This loco will be a stump puller now!

If you aren't comfortable with that, you can cheat a little. Instead of lifting the axle block all the way out, lift it just enough that you can use a hobby knife to slide a sliver of masking tape (you don't need anything thicker) between the frame and the axle block, then reassemble.

The problem is, and you can look at your own loco and see it, is that for some reason, the traction tire'd wheels just barely touche the rails, and these fixes lower the axle which allows the wheel to make full contact.

Hope this helps!
 
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