My Tsunami: a progress update


RexHea

RAIL BENDER
I thought that some of you may want to know a little more about my progress with the Tsunami instead of, "it sounds great".

System Controller: Digitrax Super Chief, Throttle: DT400, Track Voltage: 14.5

A few glitches hit me while trying to program the new Tsunami.
1. The decoder would not take any service mode programming...only Ops mode.
The solution to this was to purchase and install a programming track booster. I purchased one from Tony's at $49.00. The installation of this booster now allows me to program in the service mode without any problems.

2. The decoder would not recognize extended addressing using a Digitrax DT400 throttle.
The solution is to program using CV17 and 18. Beware! You must follow the sequence below exactly to make this work.
First convert your address number by using this calculator at:
http://ruppweb.dyndns.org/xray/comp/decoder.htm Use only the calculator and not the CV instructions on that site.
In OPS mode Programming
Set CV29 to 2 (default)
Set CV17 to the quotient value from calculator
Set CV18 as the remainder value from calculator
Set CV29 to 34 (this value will depend on if you use the speed tables (50) and etc.)
A big difference in this sequence vs. others is when you set CV29 to its final value. Make sure it is done last just as your DT400 would do it.

3. Both my Bachman's had an oscillating/jerkiness that was very apparent at the lower speed settings.
The solution was to use the advanced motor CV's Kp and Ki. By following the 'Steam Users Guide' instructions and experimenting with these, I was able to have a smooth start all the way through to maximum speed.
 
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Rex, it was a pleasure to actually experience the Tsunami. Guys, these things sound REALLY good! Rex almost spooked me when he showed me the users manual though. You could earn a college degree in about the same time it takes to sort thru that much info. ;)
 
Rex,


After you put the Booster on the program track, what kind of voltage are you getting? I am having trouble with mine, and i am not sure if I burnt something out. I read about 11.5 volts.
 
GBob, I am not sure how you took your measurement. I just went out to check mine and measured about 10volts during a CV read on the Tsunami Heavy steam, 4-8-2. Another measurement of a Digitrax 123 in a switcher was about 11 volts. I used a digital volt meter on AC volts. This will give a reading within tenths of a volt of my DCC panel meter. You shouldn't read anything after the initial kick for the capacitor charge except when you send a programming message to the decoder or read a CV.

Of course the big difference and advantage with a booster is providing more current during programming. Mine jacks up the current up to 200ma vs. the 60 of the NMRA specs. What kind of booster do you have? I use the DCC Specialites, PowerPax. It has an LED trouble light that stays on when everything is ok and blinks for a short or overload.

Would you tell me what kind of trouble you are experiencing? I may have ran across that myself.
 
Have the same booster from Tony's. I am just not able to consistantly do any programming with it on. I keep getting a cannot read CV error message on my cab screen especially with the sound engines.:confused: I don't have a digital read out so i could be off a bit, I am just frustrated with it.
 
If you have your booster in series with the program track power leads, then you should be set to read CV's and to program in service mode (I use pagemode). All I can suggest is for you to call Tony or Ken at Tony's. The only problem I have now is that I cannot program the long address using the standard (easy) way. Your's should be the same. Sorry that I don't have a better suggestion.

Thought:One thing to try: Set the loco on the track before power. Then turn on the booster/power. This will allow the capacitors on the sound decoder to charge up before you start progamming. Please let me know what you discover.
 
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REX,

Yes, i had put a 12Ohm resistor in line with the PowerPax. I took it out last night, and things seem to be a lot better. I think the holidays are getting the best of my time.

thanks

GB.
 
That's good news, GB. I know what you mean about the season. I can't seem to stay focused on anything right now.:D Wish you the Best and Merry Christmas!
 
Hello Rex,

Merry Christmas. I was wondering, I have that little 2-8-0 cosolidation that I believe you installed your tsunami in. Did you first have a soundtraxx decoder in it? When I installed a soundtraxx in mine, slow speed was affected by the loco acting as if the rods were binding(kind of uneven speed). But the rods are not the problem. When I run it on DC the loco is smooth through entire speed range. Could you offer any insight?

Thank you Rex,

Johnny
 
Hi Johnny! I guess the first question that I need to ask, is the Soundtraxx you installed in the 2-8-0 a Tsunami? If so I think I can help you with the oscillating speed that you are talking about. My 2-8-0 was a simple DCC ready loco that I recently bought at a train show. I had installed a Digitrax 123 in it and was waiting for the Tsunami. Got the Tsunami 1 week later:D .

Both my 2-8-0 w/lightsteam decoder and the 4-8-2 w/heavysteam decoder did the same thing as yours, but I was able to take care of it and now both run all speeds smoother than silk. You are correct in it not being your mechanics. Something that no one seems to realize about the Tsunami is its incredible features for matching the decoder to the locomotive motor and mechanics.

Let me know if it is a Tsunami and we will go from there. If not, don't worry we will get to that one too.
 
Thank you sir, I will be 'offing' the tender to have a look. This is so new to me I think I'll photograph it and post it here.

Talk soon

Johnny
 
Ok Rex, here we go. Thanks in advance for your help.

The decoder says: SoundTraxx DSD-B280

And heres the beast in person:
View attachment 2480

Thanks again Rex, I don't have a clue as to the what's and why's off DCC I just know it made the wiring a LOT easier! So please be patient with me.

Thanks,

Johnny
 
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Yeah, that is the DSD280-LC. That is the same that was in my 4-8-2 Bachmann and came in many of Bachmann's sound equipped locos. I replaced it with the Tsunami.

Ok, this brings up even more questions since it was customer installed. Are you READY? You ain'ta gonna like some of this!

Make sure your command station is set for 28/128 speed steps.

First, let's try the easiest and see what happens. Set CV3 and CV4 to some value. This is your acceleration and deceleration. It doesn't have to be much, but any value will help give a smoother takeoff.

Second CV9 adjusts the PWM drive pulses with settings between 0-230 and usually is between 170 and 190. The main purpose of this CV is to eliminate noise in some motors caused by PWM. Sometimes this will cause jerking if it is not adjusted properly. Try making adjustments starting at the center and move toward one side or the other and hone it down until you have minimum motor noise and/or hopefully eliminate the oscillating speed problem.

If your Locomotive is a Bachmann:
Many Bachmann's light boards were made to be used in both Europe and the USA. Europe required a filter be installed to prevent electrical motor noise. Well, that's fine except it screws up DCC operations by filtering some parts of the signal/DCC motor drive pulses. DCC decoders send DC pulses to the motor that vary in width that is determined by the speed setting. This is called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM).

Now the good news is the newer Bachmann's may or may not have this filter arrangement. You can check this by looking at where the wires from the loco come into the light board. The color of the wires may vary (Bachmann is terrible about this), but look for gray and orange wires coming into the Engineer's side of the board. If you see a couple of very small capacitors (little round thingys) and 2 coils, then that is the filter. If the caps are not there, but the coils are it may be all right to use as is.

Third and YUK! You need to remove or disable the filter if installed. Many completely remove the light board and use a Digitrax harness to plug in the LC and hardwire to the tender plug. But, you can disable the filter by clipping one lead on the capacitors. Before you do this, get back to me here or via email. Unfortunately, there are several Bachmann board configurations.

Also, when you get this problem solved let me know and I will tell you how to easily improve the sound, both in quality and volume.
 
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Rex,

You are the man!! CV9 was it. I had to go up to 200 but that seemed to cure the ill. Thanks so much for taking the time to help me.

Johnny
 
That's great news my friend! If you do have the filter I described, it is still better to remove it.

1) To be able and use the board for a plug, I cut out the capacitor.
2) unsolder and remove coils (2), but replace with jumper straps (wire) back in the holes and solder.
THAT's all you have to do.

Now...want to improve the sound quality? Try this.

Buy some "Duck" brand, double sided mounting tape. This is foam tape about 1/4" thick. I stuck it on the outer side of the "alignment" ridge on the tender bottom, trimmed, and put the shell on. The thickness of this tape was perfect. It would compress enough to allow the shell to go over it, but still expand to make a seal. Use a small screwdriver to tuck-in any foam that is sticking out. Stuff a small piece of tape in the wire hole.

If this is a new installation for sound or a even a factory installation, drill more holes covering the entire coal load. I even drilled holes near the front edge of the water tank.

If it is a factory installation, lift the coal load out and you will see that only a small part of the tender above the speaker is open. Trim away exposing more of the speaker, but don't go beyond the edge of the decoder board. Also, try to seal around the top of the decoder to seperate the sound from top to bottom.

The better the seal...the better the sound. Let me know how it comes out.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!
 
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Hi Rex,

OK I'll become a surgeon, This is the tender board. Enginer side is at bottom of photo. I believe it has the 'filter' you speak of could you direct me as to which lead to cut?

Thanks Johnny
 
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Yup! That's the guy.
Just completely remove the capacitor the (square yellow thingy).
Unsolder the coils (stick with wrapped wires) and remove.
Replace coils with single wire (jumper) in their holes...solder and you are in good shape.

FYI:
The Red/Black wires at the lower Right are the motor leads.
The Red/Black wires at the upper Left are the track pickup leads.
Yellow are your lights.
 
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