My stupid noob questions


I had fun with my big brother's HO train layout in the early 60s. So I wanted to get into railroad modeling again (this time, N gauge).

I purchased an Atlas locomotive ("N C-420 PH.2B LN SILVER MONON #504"). I received it, and the box says "Decoder Ready" and "Sound Ready".

Back in the 60s, we just had a simple device to control the train. Increase the voltage, the train goes faster, reverse the voltage, the train goes in reverse.

So my questions are:

1) Will I need to purchase a decoder to use this locomotive?
2) Will a simple controller work? If so, what type of controlller do I need?
3) If I have to buy a decoder, does it have to be brand-specific to work with an Atlas locomotive?

Any advice, suggestions, tips, etc. is appreciated in advance!

Thanks!
 
No, no decoder needed. It still works the same way. If you want to investigate DCC and then convert the locomotive, you'll have to pay someone to install a suitable decoder or learn how to do it yourself.

Yes, a simple DC variable voltage output controller works just like it did years ago.

Any 'suitable' decoder will work. It has to fit in the space available, and it must do all the functions you eventually learn about and decide you want the locomotive to have, now in DCC. Some decoders have no sound capability, others require a speaker and will make diesel/steam noises.

I strongly....STRONGLY...suggest you keep reading, asking, learning, and don't spent a tiny red penny until you begin to gel in terms of your learning and the germination of a concrete plan.

Welcome back to the hobby!
 
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dang, who let the noob in here.
JK.
Welcome back to model railroading. Keep reading and tinkering with what ya have and sooner or later the bug will sink its teeth in deep. Tell your kids to forget about any inheritance unless they can figure out how to sell off your train stuff that ya leave behind.
 
If your budget allows, you'll likely want to upgrade to DCC at some point. It is more complicated and tends to be more expensive, but the trains are much more satisfy to operate and you can work with more than one on the same track without having them having the same speed. They also feel more massive as many DCC systems will fake inertia and momentum by gradually increasing and decreasing power when you change the speed on the controller.

That last point might now seem like much, but it's hard for me to go back to my non-DCC train seeing how fake the movement seems.
 
If you're just starting out,
and
If you want to "go dcc" at some point
then
Get dcc "from the start" and save yourself time, money, and trouble.

Some other thoughts...
If you "go way back to the 1960's" (like me), how's your vision?
You may find that working with N scale stuff is pretty durn hard.
HO might be the better choice.
Dexterity can be a factor, too.

Before you commit to any "pushbutton" dcc, I suggest you take a look at the Roco z21 control app.

It can be dowloaded and tried on any smartphone or tablet, Android or iOS.
Just search for "roco z21" -- you want the red engine on the blue background.

You can use this with a Digikeijs DR5000 control box (it has the wifi built right in).
With a tablet, you can have TWO control stations at once, side-by-side.
 
Just a heads up about the model you have there. Atlas is one of the top quality brands on the market. The "Silver" in the description indicates that in common parlance it is a DC/DCC dual mode capable model, i.e. it comes in the box able to be used straight away on a DC powered layout, but can be upgraded to that both DC or DCC capable status. This would give you a model that can then run
on either. Most of these newer N scale models have, what's called "Drop In" conversion decoders available to do that. Take out the "lighting board" that's in it and replace it with the conversion board.

As this model has also the speaker space allowed for in the chassis casting (Sound Ready) then it can also be converted in much the same way with the appropriate DC/DCC/with sound decoder and it's speaker. Had you got the "Gold" model instead, all of that would have been factory installed, ready to go.

Now, as well, you can run those types on a DC only layout, control it with a DC controller and have most of the sounds available too, but, and it's a big BUT, when you stop the engine, because DC operates the engine's movement by varying the speed between stop and full, or zero volts and max volts, the sound turns off when you stop it moving. It also means, when wanting it to move again, you need to move the throttle up to about 6 volts, just to get the sound going again, before it will move. That's when, and especially if you get more engines, you really need to get a DCC control system. The Decoder system used by Atlas now is a Brand called ESU Lokpilot, for the DC/DCC capable decoder, or ESU Loksound for the literally bells and whistles DC/DCC/sound version.

Just as I was writing that, it may even be that the Silver version already has the DC/DCC capable decoder in it ex factory. The term DCC ready has had different meanings for different makers since it first came into being, so it might be worth finding out from Atlas as it applies to yours.
 
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If you decide to go with DCC, be sure you can get support. Some brands out there have few and far between users as well as accessories that are hard to find repair support for.
 



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