My Positive Experience With A Bachmann 2-8-4

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DougC

Member
I’ve been running diesels (in DC) for 17 years and thought I’d try a modern steam locomotive (still DC). Instead of running a train pulled by just the steam locomotive I would couple it in front of the diesels in a freight train like the real railroads sometimes do when moving a steam locomotive light from point A to B to get it to a passenger train to pull an excursion for railfans.

A couple of months ago I purchased a Bachmann 2-10-2. I liked the locomotive but it had multiple drive axles with the drive wheels not square, so it wobbled. And it was a little touchy at a point or two on my track work. So I returned it and eventually ordered and received a Bachmann Pere Marquette 2-8-4. The first thing I did was to remove the 8-pin plug on the DCC board and install the two enclosed dummy plugs.

This steam locomotive has worked fine after I (a) lubed it, (b) slightly loosened (about two full turns) and very lightly loctited the screw holding in the lead truck. The problem was that when tightened all the way (which is the way it arrived) the screw head gave the truck a very narrow vertical range in which to move. No pony truck derailments at all now. And (c):

The locomotive by itself weighs 12 oz. I believe, but whatever, the point is it is light on its feet. Whenever I tried coupling it with a pair of Bachmann or Atlas Trainman locos to pull a train the steam locomotive’s drivers would always slip (start off spinning and stay spinning.) Also, not helping things is the fact that the loco’s longitudinal center of gravity is just in front of the third driving axle (a little too far back for best traction.) With the added torque of the motor this makes the front-end relatively light and helps the drivers spin.

So, all in all I thought that if I could put about 3 oz. of additional weight in the forward part of the boiler (a) the traction would greatly improve, (s) its drivers wouldn’t spin, and (c) the steam/diesel lashups would pull together nicely. Usually this kind of planning is often wishful thinking on my part, but it worked! First time I tried something like this. Here's the details.

I couldn’t figure out how to open/remove the smoke box front (without tearing something up), so I did find the three screws holding the boiler/cab on – it was easy; nice design.

I cut some old railcar weights into two pieces about 2.5” long and ½” wide, the top one narrower than the lower one (because the boiler rounds and narrows up) and glued them in front of the motor on another built-in chassis weight. I added and glued in a ¼ oz. lead weight right in front of the motor (not plugging any air holes.) That left the 1” long area in the smoke box, which only had the LED headlight with resistors in it.

I read that you can bend the LED “wires” so I bent them down at a 90 degree angle (the LED just slides into the headlight; easy to pull out.) After putting the LED back in the headlight I took some metal bbs (got them at Walmart), put them in a cut-down sandwich bag (very thin plastic), wadded it into a “ball,” then test-fitted it into the smoke box. Had to remove bbs twice. I then added a little bit of caulk in the bag, closed the bag, mushed the bbs and caulk around, used some small piece of wire to tie-close the bag, then form-fitted the wad into the smoke box front around the LED assembly. It fit perfect and the headlight still works. As the caulk dries it will get harder but stay flexible. And if needed the form-fitted weight can easily be removed.

All in all I got 2.5 oz. of additional weight in the loco. This brought the longitudinal center of gravity toward the front of the loco – from originally right in front of the 3rd driver axle to just behind the 2nd driver axle.

Test time: I took turns putting the locomotive on the front of 3 different trains – each with over 50 cars and each with two mu’d diesel engines. Train 1 Bachmann FT A&B. Train 2 two Bachman GP30s. Train 3 two Atlas Trainman RS36s.

I like the results and they are interesting. On all three trains the steam locomotive runs about the same exact speed of the diesels now (no slipping of course.) On the trains with the Bachmann FTs and Atlas RS36s the diesels actually just slightly PUSH the steam locomotive. On the train with the Bachmann BP30s the steam loco actually PULLS the diesels just a little. I can see all this by watching the couplers’ spacing between the tender and lead diesel as they move.

Am I worried about burning out the motor with this additional weight? No, especially with not pulling a load behind it, and all the tracks are flat (no grades.)

You all have probably been-there-done-all-this but I wanted to share a success.

Doug
 
Very interesting and timely post, as I've just been playing around with my new Bachmann Berkshire. It does indeed have quite a bit of extra room in the boiler - I'm definitely going to mimic your bb approach. Brilliant! I couldn't find those jumpers in my packaging (I also run DC) - looks like a call to Bachmann is in my future.

Jim
 
Good job getting it to work properly. :) I had Bachmann 4-4-0s (N scale), and I never got them to pull their own weight.
 


Oh5oh:
RW&C:

Appreciate your compliments, especially yours, Jim - I've been called a lot of words that start with the letter "B" but I like yours the best. :)

Jim: As info, surprisingly my "crazy" 2-8-4 goes around my 16" radius curves and through (straight or curve) all my Model Power #4 track switches with no problems (and with no running gear modifications.) I'm impressed. It even goes straight through my old Model Power double-slip switch without derailing. Hope yours does the same if needed.

Doug
 
I have a Bachmann 2-8-4 and in stock form it pulled poor and the Bachmann DCC decoder was IMO junk. I put in a QSI sound decoder and now it will move at 1 scale MPH with a heavy train. The boiler has tons of room for weight and even the cab has room for about 1 oz of weight. its my most heavy steam engine and best puller.

here it is pulling 50+ cars with added weight and a QSI decoder.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IA28-zblCm8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqBgNLUQQBQ
 
Last edited by a moderator:
my "crazy" 2-8-4 goes around my 16" radius curves and through (straight or curve) all my Model Power #4 track switches with no problems

Actually, mine negotiates my Atlas #4 & #6 turnouts successfully only about 80% of the time. I've been tinkering with the lead truck to try and mitigate that issue, but I really expect putting more weight over the front drivers will be the silver bullet.
 
Adding weight to steamers is almost always a good idea. To make sure you haven't added too much, just grab the tender's coupler and apply power. The drivers should slip. If the loco stalls instead, you are in danger of burning out the motor if you load it heavy enough.
 
Alan:

I just did your slip-test. Weighted with about 2.5 oz. of extra weight it starts slipping at about 40 to 50% on the power pack control knob range.

This tells me I could probably add more weight (maybe 2 to 3 oz.) with no problem.

Jim and others:

As info I also posted this original post on the Bachman HO board and a responder there suggested we can put more weight in the two domes (he said he used lead shot and epoxy) plus some in the firebox (I didn't think of these.) He said his extra weight is approaching 5 oz. and he plans to add some Bull Frog Snot on a couple of drivers, and he thinks the loco will take it fine. Also he cut out the capacitors that are across the two leads on the board in the loco; he says this makes the engine run much better at slower speeds when using straight DC. Useful info.

Doug
 
Okay, here's the electroncs dullard in me coming though. I see the two capacitors Doug mentioned on the board mounted in the tender. Do I simply snip them out and go on my merry way, or do I need to solder a wire in their place?
 
Jim:

Regarding your latest post below, it's confusing to me.

Are you talking about removing the plug-in board and using the dummy plugs in the tender, or cutting some capacitors out that bridge the two power wires in the small board in the engine?

And pls remember you're talking to another electronics dullard.

Doug
 






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