My first steamer

[ICG/SOU]

I have a Athearn Genesis USRA 2-8-2 (Light Mikado) that I'm putting sound in. When I test ran the loco on the DC track, something in the drive is binding.

I'm not sure all the terminology involved in the world of steam, but on the exterior, nothing seems to be rubbing up against each other. The drive wheels turn and the locomotive will go. When the wheels have just about made a full revolution, the loco will bind, and a small "click" and then it will start moving again.

I took the plate off the bottom (it has a Samhongsa builders plate on the bottom) after checking to see if the brake gear was interfering with the drive (it was not). I then looked and all the bushings (brass metal pieces for pickup) were fine. The one gear had plenty of grease on it and the teeth looked ok. I couldn't turn anything, so I put the cover back on.

On the drive rods, there is a small Phillips head screw which holds it to the rod that goes to the piston. One is stripped out, so I'm wondering if the owner has tinkered with it before. From looking at the exploded view drawing, it looks like I'll have to just about take the whole thing apart to get to the worm gear and the other little gearbox inside. Anyone have any ideas for me before I take the whole thing apart?

Thanks.

 

[Cjcrescent]

The gear on the axle is cracked. Get a new one from NWSL.

 

[ICG/SOU]

Thanks. I'll take a look at it again on Tuesday, having now removed all the grease.

 

[bobwrgt]

Sorry your first steamer turned into a bummer. These Athearn steamers have had problems with cracked drive gears for years. They are also not easy to remove the boiler. Take your time and it can be done.

Bob

 

[ICG/SOU]

Ok, I confirmed it was a split axle gear. Thanks for the help with the diagnosis.

Now, how do I get the old one off? One side of the drive shaft has a stripped screw (not by me) so I can't fully remove the drive wheel. I tried pulling the free side loose, but it's not budging.

Is there a trick to getting these wheels off? My experience has thusfar been limited to Athearn diesels.

Thanks in advance.

PS. If I get a replacement from NSWL, which one do I get? Or, will the standard idler gear that Athearn sells work too?

Thanks.

 

[Cjcrescent]

Ok, I confirmed it was a split axle gear. Thanks for the help with the diagnosis.

Now, how do I get the old one off? One side of the drive shaft has a stripped screw (not by me) so I can't fully remove the drive wheel. I tried pulling the free side loose, but it's not budging.

Is there a trick to getting these wheels off? My experience has thusfar been limited to Athearn diesels.

Thanks in advance.

PS. If I get a replacement from NSWL, which one do I get? Or, will the standard idler gear that Athearn sells work too?

Thanks.

Loosen the screws that hold the valve gear and side rods in place. Assuming the gearcover is still off you should be able to just pull the affected driver out. Pull one wheel off, best to use a puller of some kind. The gear should then just slide off the axle. Replace the gear with NWSL gear, which IIRC is nylon. Replace pulled wheel using a quarterer, and reassemble driver set onto loco. I've done 3 in the past year, none of which required removing the boiler. Its normally a 15 minute repair.

The gear you get is 2147-6. The axle gear. Haven't ran across a cracked idler yet.

 

[ICG/SOU]

Thanks, Carey.

We have the two sizes of gears in the shop for Athearn diesels, but neither was the right size anyway.

I'll get the manager to order me some of the above replacements tomorrow. We should have spares in the shop for situations like this.

 

[Cjcrescent]

NWSL is the only source for these gears. They are different from the regular diesel gears.

 

[ICG/SOU]

Finally got the boss to get the new gear in, and went to install it today to find out that the wheel pullers we have are too small. We also didn't have a quarterer. Oh, and even though I got the stripped screw to come out, I accidentally broke one of the rivets holding two of the rods together.

Anyway, I remember from my Army days there is the right way, the wrong way, and the Army way. I tried the Army way with carefully using a pair of pliers to remove the wheel (after removing the tread/tire) and then pulled the old gear off. The new gear went on with careful use of a bench vise, as well as the wheel. Aside from the two rods being disconnected, the locomotive ran fine after being reassembled.

I wasted about an hour trying to make some sort of rivet to fix the one I broke, when finally I called Athearn and they had a take off they could send me. I'll be glad to get this loco out of the shop since it has been a real pita.