My first stab at HO table top design… feedback welcome before I do track layout

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RetiredinIowa

RetiredinIowa

BitterClinger
Don’t have the track layout determined, but I just finished sketching the desired L-shape track tabletop (in blue)… after measuring my available space in my shop.

Your thoughts and reactions welcome

Considerations
- HO scale
- I’ll be using DC to start with and will have two looping tracks so two grandkids can drive trains at the same time (two separate power packs/controllers)
- hope to design some tunnels, crossovers, elevated portions, trestle, etc to make it interesting
- not too interested in switching or point to point operations… but would like to design it with a turn out or two
- haven’t determined an era yet… will likely be a hodgepodge at first
- scenery also likely to be a hodgepodge of imaginary places

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You will need "bulbs" on each end to accommodate turnaround loops. They will need to be at least 38" in diameter to have a minimum track radius of 18" (36" diameter track loop), might even need to be a bit greater to provide clearance from a wall. If kids are using it, a guardrail will also be necessary since they will probably want to run the trains at warp speed. Otherwise, a good space to use. Yes, 15" radius track could be used, but you would be real limited with the equipment that could run on it. The bulbs can shrink back to the 30" wide benchwork, as that is a reasonable "reach-across" distance for working on the layout and re-railing equipment.
 
santafewillie said:
You will need "bulbs" on each end to accommodate turnaround loops. They will need to be at least 38" in diameter to have a minimum track radius of 18" (36" diameter track loop), might even need to be a bit greater to provide clearance from a wall. If kids are using it, a guardrail will also be necessary since they will probably want to run the trains at warp speed. Otherwise, a good space to use. Yes, 15" radius track could be used, but you would be real limited with the equipment that could run on it. The bulbs can shrink back to the 30" wide benchwork, as that is a reasonable "reach-across" distance for working on the layout and re-railing equipment.
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Thank you!

I was thinking HO could turn tighter (I'm just learning) but it makes sense that longer wheel base engines and rolling stock would have difficulties with tight radius)

One additional question/thought...

I'm thinking of using 3/4" MDF vs plywood and instead of traditional table legs... going to affix to the walls (at the studs) with shelf/angle brackets (either purchased ones or ones I make from lumber)

Also going to skip putting foam atop the MDF....and put track and scenery right on the MDF (which I'll paint first)

Thoughts and insights welcome
 


Willie hit the major points, but I want to emphasize the need for track access. Depending on how tall the layout is and how long your reach is, it would be prudent to have track within a 24" reach. Ballasting track and applying scenery ain't gonna be easy with a 30" reach. You could also build in a pop out for the back corner.

Laying track straight on top of MDF will be noisy. You can buy rolls of 1/4" cork sheet, to glue on top that would seriously help with the noise.
 
Marlin39 said:
Willie hit the major points, but I want to emphasize the need for track access. Depending on how tall the layout is and how long your reach is, it would be prudent to have track within a 24" reach. Ballasting track and applying scenery ain't gonna be easy with a 30" reach. You could also build in a pop out for the back corner.

Laying track straight on top of MDF will be noisy. You can buy rolls of 1/4" cork sheet, to glue on top that would seriously help with the noise.
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Excellent idea (cork over the MDF)… will incorporate

The height of the layout will be quite short… probably only 28” or 30”… I will be operating while seated (and the lower height permits the grandkids to enjoy it more easily). I’m 6’1”… so I should be able to reach reasonably well. My little bubble cutout at the middle of the L is also intended to help reach the corner.

Great suggestions all!
 
Along with the others, I think this is much too narrow. Everyone tries to squeeze more into less space. If you are really serious about becoming a serious model railroader, this table needs to be much wider. Even expanding out to 38" is still too narrow for longer equipment. If you build this as-is, five years from now you'll wish you had built it to a minimum of 48"+.

This narrow width, even at 38" is going to produce a very 'toy train-like' look when equipment is in the curves. Real railroads use the widest curve possible. Ours are much compressed, but we can still make them look reasonable with enough width and radius in the curves. Even my 24" radius curves make my 85" passenger wagons look strange in the curves, and looking down on the top of the wagon reveals a lot of outside rail exposed. It's not so noticeable at eye level, but above that and it becomes quite apparent.

22" and 24" radius opens a whole different world of near(er) realism and equipment choices to run on your pike. 15" radius is out except for all but the shortest freight wagons, Era III passenger wagons, and four axle locomotives. And those four axle locomotives are not going to look good either. You may also have coupler problems with a tight radius and there may not be enough swing in the coupler arm without derailing the wagon.
You are in toy train territory here and not model railroading.

On the far right vertical section on the wall, I would bring that right down to the door swing radius. 84" is not a lot of running room. Even 96" is short to me now, but the longer the better.

If you don't yet have a track plan in mind, I would expand this table as much as is physically possible while still allowing you a bit of movement to and from the benches and a reasonable operating area.
 
Michael and Willie are two of the more knowledgeable model railroaders I know online and are correct on all accounts. I would also highly recommend browsing the Layoutvision website and the track planning sections here on the forum. The black river junction layout is a nice starter in my opinion or you could consider a folded dogbone along the back wall for a longer run if the shelves and benches can be moved?

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santafewillie said:
That is true, but I believe that is what the intention is, for the grandkids who will lose interest once they're in their teens.
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Yes, but what about Grandpa's interest? If he's doing this only for the grandkids, that's a whole different layout. Such as the one he's contemplating. But if he himself wants into the serious aspect of the hobby, how happy is he going to be with this down the road.

Maybe clarification is in order.
 


Maybe consider using hollow core doors with foam insulation board glued on top? Light, rigid and easy to raise up as the kids grow and you age. Also, have you considered Kato Unitrack? Easy to work with and pretty bulletproof.
 
You’re certainly getting some great advice here!
I’ll elaborate on Willie’s suggestion on the bulb thing, these guys have some pretty good track plans in just the shape you’re looking at. Scroll down a ways and you’ll find them.

modelrailwaytechniques.com

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Note that any track plan can be modified to suit your needs or interest.
 
Wow… great suggestions! I really appreciate all the responses

Some clarifications

- I do presume (know/understand) I’ll be revising expanding the layout eventually

- Stopped at Caboose Stop Hobbies in Cedar Falls today (huge model train hobby store that’s been around 53 years) and spent lots of time (and $$$) with the old folks there… and got some of the same great input (eg I need to expand the ends of the L’s for the turn to 48” to ensure I can have room for two tracks to loop

- also… going to put homasote sheeting over the mdf (instead of cork… cork too pricey for now)

- bought some Atlas flex track, a couple of used (tested) DC controllers, a new Athearn loco, and a bunch of other misc stuff to help me get started

So the tentative layout from my original post will morph somewhat (after looking at @Rico ’s post above and the double track L-shape layouts that are awesome! I’ll be closing one of those and ‘adjusting it’ a bit.

Off to Home Depot tomorrow to look at options for the table surface !!!!!
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The store

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The cork mentioned earlier was to cut roadbed. I don't believe the poster meant to cover the table before laying the track. The cork is the realistic looking roadbed under the track to elevate it. Ballast is then applied over that.

Pre-cut scale cork roadbed for the various scales is in very short supply currently. It's as if the only US supplier just stopped making it. Whether because of tariffs on imported cork, illness, or some other reason, we don't know.

But it can still be bought in rolls and used to cut your own. A 48" x 36" 3/16 roll will get you started. I would have to double check the standard thickness, but I think that's what I bought for my north staging yard.
 
RhB Michael said:
The cork mentioned earlier was to cut roadbed. I don't believe the poster meant to cover the table before laying the track. The cork is the realistic looking roadbed under the track to elevate it. Ballast is then applied over that.

Pre-cut scale cork roadbed for the various scales is in very short supply currently. It's as if the only US supplier just stopped making it. Whether because of tariffs on imported cork, illness, or some other reason, we don't know.

But it can still be bought in rolls and used to cut your own. A 48" x 36" 3/16 roll will get you started. I would have to double check the standard thickness, but I think that's what I bought for my north staging yard.
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Michael,
I covered my entire layout with it, but I only have a 2'x13' switching layout. 1/4" is the standard and it's available on Amazon in different size rolls.

1' x 24' is currently only $50. I think I paid $30 several years ago.
 


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