My CSX Gainesville & Northern


NP2626 said:
The purpose of the cork is simply to lift the track up, some. Your ballast materials will fill in where it is needed. Like Willie said you could use N scale for Arrival/Departure and sidings and then maybe HO scale Cork for the rest. Your yard should be flat, no cork. Yes, retaining walls were used by the full scale in developed locations like cities/towns; or, where they were absolutely necessary. However, I think they where far less prevalent than as seen on many Model Railroads. Like all of us, I would assume CSXGandn wants to save some money where he can on his layout. Buying retaining wall materials for the length of his elevated track could be costly. Apparently, none of his track work is permanent at this point; so, why not give himself some room and make the slope between the elevated track and lower track more realistic. He could even narrow down the track bed on the elevated road bed to help with this matter, start the slope by lopping of some of the extra width of the woodland scenics risers.

I believe I might be overstepping my bounds by making these suggestions! If this is the case, I certainly will back off! This is a hobby where artistic expression should be first and foremost. CSXGandn please do what you want/like and pay no attention to what others suggest, if you like!
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You're not overstepping your bounds at all! If I didn't want to get a lot of different suggestions and input I wouldn't have asked ;)
As a matter of fact I spent much of last night messin' with my track plan to see how I could improve it based on suggestions from this thread.

Not only is there a cost with all that retaining wall, the track has to come back down on the other side. That's a lot of retaining wall! It probably wouldn't look good.
So far I've managed to get at least the lower tracks nearest the highest elevations moved away. That has created some better staging scenarios! (staging will be hidden under the 7' long elevated section).

Thanks, all for your suggestions. Feel free to keep them comin'! I will post more pics and/or vids as I bring it together.
 
Good CSXgandn! When a person makes suggestions, you never know how they will be taken by the person asking questions; or, those following along with the conversations. Some people feel their way is the only true and correct way of doing things. These people are very difficult to contend with and I tend to ignore what they have to say, as after 28 years in this hobby, I know there are several; or, even hundreds of ways to do things.

I am no expert! As an example, I have never dealt with Styrofoam as a scenery building material. When I've dealt with foam materials, all I can think about is the clouds of small chunks of foam that almost float in the air with high static electricity that cling to everything! I know this opinion is wrong as Foam materials are likely the most popular method of building scenery. Since most of my scenery is in place, using cardboard strips and plaster soaked towels and rock castings, it really doesn't matter that I have not used foam and have no intentions of doing so. You, on the other hand, are using foams and I say good for you and when someone starts talking about using foam I will follow along; but, probably remain quiet!
 
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Nah, I'm not an expert by any stretch either! That's why I'm so open to suggestions. Also my first time using foam...we'll see how I do:D
 
NP2626 said:
CSXGandn,

First, I would suggest the track next to the elevated track be moved away from the elevated track by a few inches. This will allow the elevated trackbed to have a realistic slope down to the lower level.
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I had more time today to entertain possible track plan changes to improve this. I started by moving some of the lower track away from the elevated section but moving all of it would leave less room for my already smaller than I would like yard. I found that I do, however, have room to move much of the track on the incline away from the lower track by adding small
sections to the existing bench work (and moving a piece of furniture to maintain clearance by the layout :D). This will also allow me to keep the outer track farther from the edge of the layout, reducing risk of disaster!

I'm not sure when I'll have the time to begin this but I hope to share my progress with all of you and as always, suggestions and constructive criticism welcome!
 
Just a comment on leaving gaps between rail ties and roadbed, then trying to fill that gap with ballast. As in most cases, water thinned white glue is used to seal and glue the ballast in place, it can shrink as it dries, pulling the track down into the dip, or even twisting it if the gap is so shaped. Try, as best you can to make sure that your base is as smooth and dip/bulge free, by sanding off the high bits and filling the low. If necessary poke thin shims under the cork to support cork and track. A good foundation is the key to a good finished product, whether it be a full size building or a model railroad. Tedious, yes. Essential, also yes.
 
Well, that makes me want to not use roadbed ;).

Seriously, thanks for that info. I would never have thought of that and probably would have had problems.
 
I used roadbed for 1,100 feet of track and have no problem.
But like toot said "A good foundation is the key to a good finished product"
Take your time and make sure you have a nice and flat roadbed.
 
csxgandn said:
Well, that makes me want to not use roadbed ;).

Seriously, thanks for that info. I would never have thought of that and probably would have had problems.
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I used cork road bed throughout my layout and found it to produce a very level surface to mount my track to without much work to make sure it was level! This part of may layout was completed 20 years ago, I don't know if the manufacturers have become sloopy, now.
 
Once the holidays are over hopefully I will have more time and money to continue with the layout.

While on the subject of roadbed, do most of you use cork and how do you attach it to the foam?
Thanks
 
I used small tacks; but, I was attaching to plywood. I think most people use straight pins to hold the cork in position, while glue; or, other is drying.
 
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Thanks. I was thinking just that but thought now's a good time to check with those who have done it before!

Hopefully in the new year I'll have more progress to post.
 
I use cork roadbed throughout. HO scale on mainlines and N scale on passing sidings and some industry sidings. I use Elmer's white glue to attach it to the plywood benchwork, held in place temporarily with push pins. I only split the N scale roadbed on curves, and do not rely on it to form shoulders. The ballast will later do it on it's own.

Willie
 
I didn't want to glue the cork down, as then it becomes difficult to move/remove, if needed; or, my plans changed. Once the track's location was known to be permanent, the road bed would be glued down in the process of adding and gluing the ballast in place. It was important to me to keep things flexible until I knew I liked what I had done.
 
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NP2626 said:
I didn't want to glue the cork down, as then it becomes difficult to move/remove, if needed; or, my plans changed. Once the track's location was known to be permanent, the road bed would be glued down in the process of adding and gluing the ballast in place. It was important to me keep things flexible until I knew I liked what I had done was right.
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I don't glue it until I am satisfied with the plan. With over 1100' of track, I have only moved 4' after gluing roadbed down. It's actually pretty easy with Elmer's, don't know about silicon that other folks use.

Willie
 
santafewillie said:
I don't glue it until I am satisfied with the plan. With over 1100' of track, I have only moved 4' after gluing roadbed down. It's actually pretty easy with Elmer's, don't know about silicon that other folks use.

Willie
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I have been using paintable caulk and if you use a very thin layer it comes up easily if you slip a putty knife between the cork roadbed and the plywood.
 
gjohnston said:
I have been using paintable caulk and if you use a very thin layer it comes up easily if you slip a putty knife between the cork roadbed and the plywood.
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Willie and Greg, I think we are pointing out that there are many different ways of laying track and road bed. I certainly didn't mean to come across like my way was the only way; or, the best way. It was only the method I used and why I used it. Csxgandn, there is likely many other ways to do what it is you are considering. Good luck!
 
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NP2626 said:
Willie and Greg, i think we are pointing out that there are many different ways of laying track and road bed. I certainly didn't mean to come across like my way was the only way; or, the best way. It was only they method I used and why I used it. Csxgandn, there is likely many other ways to do what it is you are considering. Good luck!
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Not to worry Mark, I certainly didn't take it that way. Only clarifying what I had previously posted.

Willie
 
Thanks for all the input, guys! I've got some roadbed down (just tacked to the foam for now incase I decide to move stuff).
Hopefully I can get some pics up of how I moved some of the track and hear what you all think

Thanks
 
[video=youtube_share;zTOq7F1Dp2M]https://youtu.be/zTOq7F1Dp2M[/video]

Thanks for all the advise, everybody. I finally got to the point that you guys can hopefully make out my changes to the track plan in this video.

I added a small extension to the layout (seen in the foreground of the video) which I still need to attach foam to. This allowed me to move some of the track on the grade away from the lower track.

I will have to do something similar on the two perpendicular sides. The other long side (in front of the window and AC) will be mostly a city scene (hopefully) on the upper part and the other track will be underneath in a tunnel about 7' long...that's the plan for now anyway :D .

Also, I know the layout and train room is a mess but cleaning is a project for another day :D

I'd love to hear any comments or suggestions anyone has.

Thanks
Paul
 
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