My 4 x 8 layout

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H

highroller

Member
Here is my layout, a modified version of Atlas Great Eastern Trunk. I used Atlas code 83 sectional tracks on cork roadbed. I replaced the turntable from the original plan with industrial spurs. I also modified the curves so they now have a 22" or 24" radius easement section which provide better appearance when using long loco or cars. I will install under the table switch machines (total of 16). Since I enlarged the curves, the tracks are now very close to the edge so plan to add a 3" MDF extension on the perimeter of the table to get a better look and more place for scenery (I should have use a bigger table !). The layout is wired for both DC or DCC use with concealed terminal joiners (9 fully isolated blocks). Any comments welcome !!!
 
NICE!!...I like it allot...That's a plate full for a 4x8!! Great plan and nice track work. Very organized.... Good Job!
 


Here is a quick drawing I made when I removed the tracks prior to the installation of the roadbed. While there is a mix of radius, the curves are quite smooth and kink free. I tested this layout with my Athearn Genesis SD-70 (with warped trucks issue) and it did not derail at all at full speed on all curves and turnouts so it pass the test ! I nailed and glued the roadbed and place and fastened the tracks with a nail in each holes. My Atlas Code 83 # 4 turnouts are ALL warped out of the box so they were very difficult to align properly, moreover, I found a lot of warped 6" and 3" straight sections. The code 83 rail seem to be very soft and fragile compared to the code 100.
 
I painted my rails today using Delta CeramCoat crafts acrylic paints "Brown Iron Oxide". The color is perfect but unfortunately I found that this paint peel of from the rail when scratched. I think this product must be applied over a primer to stick well to bare metal. I assume that when fully dried, the paint will be less sensitive to peeling. Not sure but if I apply a final coat of clear matte varnish to my rails after I finished all the weathering and ballasting, it may help protect the paint. Next steps will be painting the ties with a wash of gray and dry brushing rust color on the rail in the industrial spurs and yard. Then it will be ballasting.
 
First, good for you for dumping the roundhouse. Roundhouses look cool but they take up way too much space on a 4x8. The track plan is a little busy for my taste but it looks well laid out.

I wouldn't worry about the rail paint. It will become harder as it dries and the glue mixture you use for ballast will also help the paint stick to the rail better. Once you've got the track complete, you won't be doing a lot of rail scratching anyway. :) I would not use matte varnish on the rails. It does a great job of insulating rail joiners just where you don't want them to be insulated and it would be a disaster for your switches. If you want to tone down the track color and give it a well used look, use chalks after you've laid the ballast. You won't need any fixative to hold it in place.
 
Dumping the roundhouse was a good idea. You did a very good job squeezing in a bunch of stuff, but i think i got about as much in on my 6 x 3 plan :)
Good planning, i like it so far
 


Thanks everyone for your comments. I know this is a busy layout but as quoted in the Atlas plan book "The Great Eastern Trunk attempts, in the very minimum space, to give something of the flavor of heavy duty, main line railroad". This is difficult to design a 4 x 8 layouts which combine lots of operational possibilities while keeping scenic separation. I was always fascinated by european layouts which are often congested with lots of tracks and scenery and still have a really great look. I built this layout without taking care of scenery, I will deal with that later. I know that I will have some challenge when it will be time to install buildings, roads etc.. because there is not much place between the subdivision yard and the industrial spurs. I found "The Gateway Central Project Layouts" to be a good example of really interesting smalls and busy layouts http://www.gatewaynmra.org/project.htm
 
I'd urge you to consider the Gateway Central X at http://www.gatewaynmra.org/project10.htm. This layout was planed for buildings and scenery but with enough track to make the rest of the layout interesting to operate. This would be easy to expand to a 4x8 size like the Missouri Historical Society Model Railroad Layout at http://www.gatewaynmra.org/mhslayout/mhslayout.htm. I'm more of a scenery guy than a track guy so I'm biased but having a lot of buildings and a town make your layout a lot more interesting, especially to non-railfans.
 
There is nine #6 and seven # 4 turnouts on this layout.

I started weathering and ballasting the rails in the industrial yard. I painted each ties with a wash of gray (I think it was more dry brushing than washing). I glued fine gray ballast using a mix of white glue and water. I sprayed 70% isopropylic alcool before applying the glue and it work really great ! When the ballast job will be completed, the fun part will start. I will brush dry pastel to highlight various details as follow: brown at the center of the ties, yellow ocre for the side of the rail and ties and some red spot for rust.
 
I'm now using a 50/50 mix of water and 70% isopropylic alcool to wet my ballast, seem to work better than alcool alone and I also replaced white glue with Podge Modge for cement.
 
Some progress and modifications to the original design. I added bridges and I will model a small creek. I'm planning to enlarge the table with an extra 3-inch space all around the perimeter to get a better appearance.
 
You really made the most of a small space, i like it!! Great job.

The addition of the bridges will certainly add alot of detail to the layout as well :D
 
It maay be too late but I'd change those inverted Warren truss bridges for either girder bridges or through truss brides. No railroad would ever put trusses that close to the watter surface because the first flood will damage or destroy the bridges. More importantly, any scenery work you do in your creek will be almost invisible because it will be hidden by the trusses.
 


Jim,

You're right about the scenery work in the creek, I will have to be imaginative to get the most of this tight space. However, as you can see in the attached real life pictures, deck truss bridges can be very close to the stream ;)

Dom
 
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