Mounting undertable switches in foam

ModelRailroadForums.com is a free Model Railroad Discussion Forum and photo gallery. We cover all scales and sizes of model railroads. Online since 2002, it's one of the oldest and largest model railroad forums on the web. Whether you're a master model railroader or just getting started, you'll find something of interest here.


rem37411

Lead Caboose Polisher
Hi, I posted this originally tagged onto someone elses thread about cutting foam board but don't know that it is getting any exposure. I am building my layout with atlas code 80 and am only using the custom switches, I don't like the look of the mechanical switch laying beside the tracks. I am curious if anyone has tried to countersink the undertable switching mechanism somehow. I am going to try it but wanted to know if anyone has had success or failure with it.
As always, Thank you.
 
Im sorry I should have specified, I have 4" of foam on my table. Will that switch reach that far? What I was originally asking is if it is possible to countersink the switch machine into the foam.
 


I don't know, but I'd guess that the Tortoises do not have that long / tall a throw. I see no reason why you couldn't sink one into the foam as long as you had a means of securing it from falling out - press fit? adhesive caulk? Velcro?
 
4 inch foam will work. You'll needd to use thicker control wire and the hole through the foam will need to be a little larger. start with a piece of .039. You can get it at most hobby shops and is called music wire.
You'll have to drill the hole in the motor movement just a little larger to accommodate the larger wire. The default wire that comes with it is .025 and is too flimsy. Mine consists of 3/4th inch plywood with 2 inch foam, followed by roadbed and there's no problem with a good bit of left over force.
 
You can do either. 4" of foam is more than enough to countersink and cover an undertable Atlas machine. A Tortoise, with some stiffer piano wire, will throw a switch through about 8 inches on material, as long as it has a brass or plastic tunnel for the rod. The good thing about the Tortoise is that it hangs under the table, making it eaier to reach if there's a problem. It also has extra outputs for things like position indicator lights. The Atlas machine is going to be tough to both cover and dig up without wrecking some surrounding scenery.
 
You can do either. 4" of foam is more than enough to countersink and cover an undertable Atlas machine. A Tortoise, with some stiffer piano wire, will throw a switch through about 8 inches on material, as long as it has a brass or plastic tunnel for the rod. The good thing about the Tortoise is that it hangs under the table, making it eaier to reach if there's a problem. It also has extra outputs for things like position indicator lights. The Atlas machine is going to be tough to both cover and dig up without wrecking some surrounding scenery.

I would agree with that last point, unless you devised some way of making the foam, track and scenery on top of the switch machine removable, or your RR was double-deck, in which case you don't really want switch machines hanging into the scene below.
 
I thought about the possibility of camoflauging the switches with a building or removeable scenery or something but the building idea is probably not feasible because then I would have to have a building everywhere the switches are. Haven't got that far yet. I think I am going to attempt one in a scrap piece of foam to see if it will hold stable enough after several uses or if it will start to work loose. If it works I will post pics of how I get it done, if not then I guess I will relist all these atlas undertable switches I got a great deal on on ebay!.....:D
 
Although this clubmember models in HO, he glued the Atlas machines directly to the underside of his turnouts, and just cut out enough foam to give room for the machine. He used a lot of the older Atlas machines, the ones with a wire actuator, by adding an extension to the actuator and putting a 90`bend into the wire. Lately he has been using the newer undertable machines, but he still just glues the machine to the bottom of the switch.

He also installed a capacitor discharge system for throwing the turnouts and after the turnouts are placed into the foam, and covered with ballast, they are almost silent.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
On a tangent, do you have to use electric machines? I like ground throws but if they're too big for you (they are out of scale), you can always do the piano wire through brass tube trick.
 


Well, I guess that is one of the coolest things I know about this hobby, I don't HAVE to do anything....lol I actually love the way the ground throws look I have a few of them and plan on using them on some switches that may normally lay dormant. But for the switches connecting my main line and switching yard I thik I want to go automatic. I am still kind of exploring and researching it.

CJ is the HO modeler you are speaking of you? Or is it someone you know? I would like to see a pic of that if it is available.

Thanks to everyone so far
 
Using some sort of glue to hold the switch machine to the foam will make it tough if it ever needs replacing. I've mounted 2 Atlas machines directly under foam. Here's how I did it. A hobby shop that caters to the R/C airplane folks will have a good selection of wood by Midwest. Pick up a piece of 1/8 inch, or slightly thicker if you like, Light Plywood from the rack. You can cut it easily with a razor saw to a size big enough to mount the switch machine. Place the machine on the ply and drill holes for the screws. Then I use silicone sealer to mount it under the foam and then screw the switch machine to the light ply after the silicone has cured. For through the table linkage up to the turnout I use GH Products UMK 1 underground mount for Atlas. I bought a ton of these many years ago and they may not even be available now but could easily be duplicated with some brass tubing and stiff wire.

Being able to remove a switch machine, even for wiring it before it is hard to reach is a plus.
 
CJ is the HO modeler you are speaking of you? Or is it someone you know? I would like to see a pic of that if it is available.

Thanks to everyone so far

Its not me, but one of our club members. He simply glues the switch machine to the bottom of the turnout. The actuator, if it is wire, is extended and bent at a 90` angle to come up through the throwbar. If its one of the newer atlas machines with the plastic actuator, IIRC, he pops the top of the machine off, and turns the actuator upside down, so it can come up through the throwbar.

I can try to get some pix, but I don't know when we'll get back to his house. Our club is hosting the annual train show at the McWane Science Center in downtown B'ham until after the first of the year. I'll see if I can at least come up with a diagram to show what I'm talking about.
 
Train show? (PERK):D I am on vacation this week and am only in Chattanooga, I may have to make a trip to Tunica via Birmingham to check that out. What are the hours this week?
 
Train show? (PERK):D I am on vacation this week and am only in Chattanooga, I may have to make a trip to Tunica via Birmingham to check that out. What are the hours this week?

Now keep in mind that its just a train exhibit, no vendors.

Go here for info:

http://www.mcwane.org/calendar_items/537-magic_of_model_trains_exhibit

Its open every day. Mcwane staffs it during the weekdays, but one or two of our clubmembers are there most of the time, but on the weekends, we fully staff the whole floor.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Posted this in another thread but it is relevant here too. I have two tortoise machines going through particle board and foam. I used the heavier recommended guage that tortoise recommended but to be honest I think I would go up one step thicker. I just think this gives the wire a little more effect as it is traveling a further distance than maybe the original design intended.
 




Affiliate Disclosure: We may receive a commision from some of the links and ads shown on this website (Learn More Here)

Back
Top