More Painting! An SP 2-8-0


Here we are with completed detail painting. The boiler is just sitting on the chassis at the moment. Decaling after dinner. Ribeye steaks off the grill. Ahhhh...
IMG_2198.JPG
 
Decaling all done. This step takes the longest, as the decals are so delicate, and you absolutely can't rush. The San Juan Decal sets are the very best. Notice the lack of visible film? I haven't clear coated over them yet. Just a little Micro-Sol to set them. Another evening or two should do it! I lettered that second tender with the same road number. This engine will have two possible appearances. Done for the night. Yawn...
IMG_2199.JPG
IMG_2200.JPG
 
Well, you were right....... I scored a Sunset M-1 and and M-1A 4-8-2 with tenders. Both pairs are out of a collectors hoard still in their box and plastic. Not sure if I should attempt this though.
Sunset Models, especially the Prestige Series, are lightly detailed and pretty simple to take apart. Just take photos , especially an underneath view so you can see the proper side rod configuration, and make sure to check your side rod screws for different lengths. If you have different lengths, be sure and note what went where, as it only goes together one way. Look at driver counterweight size. Typically you'll have the two smallest at each end, the middle one at the second position, and the big one where the main rod connects. Go slow, take notes, and plenty of photos to document your progress. Grab yourself some compartmented storage boxes to keep the little parts in. Separate left and right rods. PM me if you get stuck. There's always a first one! :)
 
not to knitpick, but the cab looks lower than the smokebox. Maybe an optical illusion?
It probably is. Right now the boiler is just resting on the chassis for photos :). I still have to do the Flat coating, and the electrical work (headlight and DCC). The drawbar is also missing. This model has slightly undersized drivers, a compromise to operability at the time it was built, so the whole thing looks like it's a little high. Look at the C-10 earlier in the thread. It has the proper size drivers.
 
Sunset Models, especially the Prestige Series, are lightly detailed and pretty simple to take apart. Just take photos , especially an underneath view so you can see the proper side rod configuration, and make sure to check your side rod screws for different lengths. If you have different lengths, be sure and note what went where, as it only goes together one way. Look at driver counterweight size. Typically you'll have the two smallest at each end, the middle one at the second position, and the big one where the main rod connects. Go slow, take notes, and plenty of photos to document your progress. Grab yourself some compartmented storage boxes to keep the little parts in. Separate left and right rods. PM me if you get stuck. There's always a first one! :)

Alan, You consider this "Lightly Detailed"??? I don't know much about them but lightly? OK...... If I get stuck, I'll contact you. Thanks

Perry

M1A.jpg
 
It may not be a Prestige Series, but the models are very well put together. it won't shed parts, but it will get interesting when you mask for the smoke box and fire box. Go to You Tube and search Monday Morning Express, How To with Hal. He goes through painting these, and you'll find his videos a big help. Watch before starting. :)
 
DCC and headlight in, flat coated, run test complete. This was a fast little motor and I had to set the road switcher speed table in the decoder to slow her down! I like the whaleback tender better than the vandy, what do you think? Headlight lens on the tender & marker jewels, fix a few dings, light weather, all after the run test this Thursday at the club.
IMG_2201.JPG
IMG_2202.JPG
 
Very Nice - fact is: downright pretty!
I prefer the Vandy tender, but that's just me.

P.S. Much better photos - wheels, trucks, piping, and running gear show more clear!
Thanks....
 
Evening gents. I had to do some traveling, down to Chicago's South side today, so no modeling got done. I think I passed Bad Bad LeRoy Brown's house though. Not a neighborhood you'd care to visit after dark! So, to business: I know I offered a choice for the next project, and the little ten wheeler got all the votes, however, I got to thinking, and our friend Emporer of the North is making his bones on his first brass model over an another thread, and I wondered if I might do a larger locomotive along with him. I came up with two possibilities. I know what you're thinking! "Good Lord how many of those things does this guy have?" I ain't tellin! If I do there are witnesses, and evidence. Anyhow, candidate #1 is an SP Mt-5, last of the SP 4-8-2's. I'll have to find a number that never got the skyline casing. Candidate #2 is an SP-3 4-10-2, or as the SP track crews called them: "Those damned curve straighteners" It's an interesting model, and a three cylinder to boot which gave the chuff an off cadence. Both have been re-motored and decodered, and tested at the club so they are ready for paint. I'll have to chew on this one a bit.
IMG_2219.JPG
IMG_2218.JPG
 
Last edited:
ALAN -- maybe you should do the "Mountain" first - along with PERRY?

P.S. Frisco had some 2-10-2's that the track crews and train crews both hated for the same reason.
They later made their 4-8-4's out of them, but their little Russian 2-10-0's were well loved by all.
 
OK Gents, voting is closed. Aaaand the winner is: None of the above! I have a commission project in here that went to the head of the line. It'll be a challenge due to the model's complexity. It's already apart and soaking in lacquer thinner to remove the old clear coat, so no before pictures. It had foam damage so I had to get it into the lacquer thinner ASAP. That old foam is corrosive as hell when it starts to break down. So to tide you over, here's a pic of the same model. This customer wants it black, not green. It's heavy as all get out and should be a good runner and puller when it's done. After this one, we will do the ten wheeler! I'll be ready for a simpler model by then!!
DSC03847.jpg
 



Back
Top