Minimum HO Curve Radius


Brakeman Hal

Well-Known Member
What is the minimum HO curve radius that will reliably handle a 2-8-2 Mikado and a 2-8-0 Consolidation?
I can't afford the space for large curves in an apartment bedroom.
Thanks,
Brakeman Hal
 
Which Mike, and what does their manual and specs suggest? It probably doesn't matter because virtually all currently available non-brass Mikes are likely to operate well on 18" curves...by design. In the same way a Trix Big Boy can operate on typical EU 18" radius curves, a N. American 2-8-2 should work very nicely on 18" radii.

I assume you are thoroughly familiar with laying trackwork, so you understand that to keep things reliable and fun, you'll want to take some extra pains to ensure nice and proper joints, and that your tracks will lie on a solid platform. If your joints allow changes in grade from piece-to-piece, especially along a curve, you'll have more derailments. Maybe not tons more, but enough to impact your enjoyment and confidence. So, if you do this thoughtfully, as you seem to already be doing, I don't think a currently available Mikado is going to give you many problems.
 
Like all my previous layouts, I never have any abrupt grade changes, except a small 1% change along a long straight.

An 18" minimum radius means I can build a curve on something just over 36" wide, which will give me more freedom in layout design in a small room.

The locos I would buy would be any non-brass Mike or Consol which has sound.

Hal
 
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Bachman Mikado's 2-8-2 with DCC and sound are shown to work on minimum 18" radius. Their Consolidations should also work on 18", although they show them as sold out. Mantua steam locomotives will also work on 18", but they, of course, are older, and you'd have to add DCC/sound decoders, and insulate the motors from the frames. I've done it successfully, but it is a bit of work.
 
Bachmann? I never thought Bachmann would have advanced features such as DCC and Sound!

Also, I would need a quality source of code 83 flex track....Peco or Atlas?
Hal
 
Bachmann? I never thought Bachmann would have advanced features such as DCC and Sound!

Also, I would need a quality source of code 83 flex track....Peco or Atlas?
Hal
I have used Atlas Code 100 on my layout, but I think I would match the Code 83 to whichever turnouts you are going to use, just in case there is any small dimensional differences in the rails. It would also depend on availability.
Oh, regarding Bachman showing the Consols as "sold out", I'd check around with various hobby shops, local and on-line. They could have some in stock. Yes, Bachman has DCC/Sound. Of course you will pay the price! :eek: I don't buy much of anything anymore, as I have about 65 year's worth of rolling stock and motive power...more than I can fit on my layout at one time. I converted five Mantua's to DCC/sound, replacing the motors and adding Soundtraxx Tsunami sound decoders, and those alone ran around $150, for the motors and decoders. Buying them already installed saves a lot of work, but does run the MSR prices up over $339.00! That's a bit more than I paid for the original Mantua Mike's, Pacific's, etc. (Can't seem to find any $24.95 rtr or kits, even on ebay any more. But then I just paid $3.98 a gallon for mid-grade gasoline, rather than $0.249 back in the 1950's.) Remember when a dollar was worth...a dime?
 
I have a Mantua 2-8-2 and a Bachmann 2-8-0. My layout is mostly 18" radius and both locos run well.
I do have some trackwork that has un-intentional super elevation that derails the 2-8-2 when backing up the grade.
 
Hal wrote:
"Also, I would need a quality source of code 83 flex track....Peco or Atlas?"

Have you considered Kato "Unitrack"?
I think you'd find it easier to work with than flex track. Much quicker to get things "up and running".

This is sectional track, but with nicely ballasted roadbed and Code 83 rails. It looks VERY good when assembled, particularly the track joints, which -almost- become invisible (I said "almost"). I'll bet you have trouble finding some of them once it's all together!

They have a #2-270 curved section that is 19.25" radius. It should fit your space and accommodate the engines you listed above.
 
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If easy set-up is the aim, then by all means spend the money, and hoooooo boy will you spend money. But if you're still reasonably secure at setting up a simple oval or whatever with flex, please consider that for two reasons: fewer joints, longer lengths with natural approximations of eased curves. This latter point means that the couplers will allow better tracking on those smaller curves due to the slight delay in angle imparted by the easements.
 
I have a Mantua 2-8-2 and a Bachmann 2-8-0. My layout is mostly 18" radius and both locos run well.
I do have some trackwork that has un-intentional super elevation that derails the 2-8-2 when backing up the grade.
What part of the Mike derails first? Do you have to back up a grade with a curve?
 
Bachmann? I never thought Bachmann would have advanced features such as DCC and Sound!

Also, I would need a quality source of code 83 flex track....Peco or Atlas?
Yes, Bachman, their 2-8-0s and 4-6-0s are very nice models. I have several of each. They come optionally with DCC and sound. They will negotiate 18" radius curves. In fact they were designed for 18" radius. I hear the Alco 2-6-0 is also good.

Can't go wrong with Peco or Atlas track.
 
I tried to order the Bachman 2021 Catalog, but they wanted me to log in with my Password.
I don't have any password or user name...just an email address.

Hal
 
I tried to order the Bachman 2021 Catalog, but they wanted me to log in with my Password.
I don't have any password or user name...just an email address.

Hal
You can probably create your own account. They probably have a link for that. Just use your email address for a user name and think up something simple for a password. Otherwise, check with Wm. K. Walthers or your local hobby shop.
 
If setting up 18r curves with flex track, I would strongly urge you to get an 18” ribbon rail to make sure the curves are very consistent. I started out by just using a line but my curves varied slightly and had to fix them after purchasing the ribbon rail.
 
My curves will follow a pencil line made on the baseboard by a radius stick with a pencil in one end and a sharpened nail in the other end. The radius will be absolutely constant, like the 26", 45", and 50" radii on my 130-foot O-scale layout.

Hal
 
Hal,
I’m sure that method has worked quite nicely on the larger radii o scale curves and it works nicely on ho scale where the curves aren’t so tight, but when making 18” curves for larger steam engines, you are very close to the minimum tolerable radius of the 8 wheel trucks and the slightest imperfection will cause a derailment. I learned this the hard way and after redoing my 18” curves using the ribbon rail, my derailments were non existent.
 
The smallest radius on my proposed HO layout will be 22", which is allowable within the confines of a 4x8 plywood sheet.

I'll use my trammel beam to provide the exact radius.

Ho Ho Ho!
 



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