Mechanical Turnouts

[kylewoody]

Hey guys,

I had another question...

I am running Code 80 Atlas tunrouts on my N scale layout. I know that Caboose makes ground throws for them, but I was thinking about going even simpler.

I have seen the "spring" idea, whereby you bend a piece of piano wire. Has anyone does this on my tunrouts? The area where you would drill a hole (the tie in between the points) seems small, as well as it mechanically connects each point so it still has the correct gauge... which to me, looks like it would be real easy to screw up and break.

Any ideas on simple, hand throws?

Thanks!
Kyle

 

[UP2CSX]

Kyle, in N scale, I wouldn't try to remake the wheel, especially since you're working with small delicate parts and one slip of the drill means you've ruined an otherwise good switch. I'd stick with the Caboose Hobbies ground throws and call it good.

 

[kylewoody]

Hm, okay Jim. Didn't know if there was an easier thing. How exactly do the Caboose throws mount? I have 2" foamboard, and will probably cover that with plaster cloth. Can I have a long-lasting mount for it?

Sorry for all the questions - like I said, this is my first layout, so I'm still figurin' out stuff.

Kyle

 

[UP2CSX]

You usually build up whatever you're using for roadbed material next to the switch so it's level with the switch throwbar. I use latex caulk to secure that in place. Once that's dry, I use track nails through the hole in the base of the ground throw after using white glue or latex caulk on the bottom of the base. Just be careful not get adhesive on any of the moving parts. They are very strong glued down as long as you have them positioned according to the instructions on the package so there's not undue force appplied to the throwbar.

 

[kylewoody]

Okay, cool - thanks Jim!

I'm heading up to my hobby shop tommorow. Gonna grab some more rolling stock, along with more flextrack, turnouts, and other misc. stuff.

Kyle

 

[kylewoody]

I was also wondering - like I said, I have all my track (mainline) soldered up and running both my Atlas' on it.

I have noticed, that the engine's have a hard time on the turnouts - specifically the 3 axled SD60.

Is it because of the plastic frogs, or is there something I can do to help this?

If I haul butt over them, no problem (scale speed of 30+mph). However, if I do slower speeds, particulary speeds I would use to enter or exit yards and spurs, there seems to be a "make and break" type of connection.

This only happens on turnouts too, not on any piece of flextrack I have.

Kyle

 

[UP2CSX]

Kyle, I asume you have Atlas switches. The is a common problem and it's caused by the wheels of the locomotive makig contact for short period of time with both rails just beyond the frog, the black pointed piece that sticks out between the the two diverging routes. This causes a short and the hesitation you see. Try painting both rails with clear nail polish for about half an inch behind the frog. That should stop the short. You will have to reapply the nail plish periodically as it wears off.

 

[kylewoody]

Thanks Jim -

So, do you mean paint the black plastic "V" of the frog, along with another inch or so of the railheads with polish? Basically, painting a "V"?

I have attached a picture to help me understand... the black represents metal railheads. The red is plastic, and the green is nail polish.

Thanks!
Kyle

 

[UP2CSX]

Kyle, that's correct. You can see that the locomotive wheel making contact with the running rail and the diverging rail at the same time will cause a short. Since the clearances are very tight at the frog, having the two rails close enough together for a locomotive wheel, especially one with a little wider tread than normal, to touch both rails at once will cause a short. The nail polish prevents the short while current for the locomotive will still be picked up from the opposite rail and allow reasonably smooth running through the switch.

 

[kylewoody]

Cool, thanks Jim. However, I'm just a bit confused. The frog is black plastic, and extends almost a quarter inch into each diverging rail - that is, before the plastic of the frog ends, and the metal railhead begins. It seems like it can't pick up any electricity there anyways?

Kyle

 

[UP2CSX]

The short happens just beyond that plastic frog. The rails are still close enough that the locomotive wheels can touch both rails at once. Try the nail polish as I suggested and see if that doesn't fix the problem.