Masking Techniques

[macjet]

So, I tried the model masking tape. I got some not so quit sharp lines. Anyone have anything better for masking a locomotive for stripes?

 

[RCH]

I hate masking stripes, so whenever possible I use decals. If you must mask, you could try using Scotch tape applied to a clean sheet of glass, trimmed to shape with a hobby knife, peeled off and applied to the model. I burnish the tape to the model's surface then apply paper towels to cover large areas using more tape, applied over the top of, but not overlapping, the precise edge tape already on the model. I shoot the paint, then remove the tape as soon as the finish is set up (but not completely cured).

As I mentioned, I prefer to use decals for stripes. Depending on the complexity of the stripes you're looking for, you could take some Microscale trim film (blank decal stock) in one of their standard colors and cut it into strips. If you're a little more picky about your colors, you can airbrush the color of your choice directly onto their white trim film. I've done that for some anti glare panels in the past and it worked beautifully.

If your stripes are too complex to try to cut out of decal stock, you could print your decals directly onto decal paper using a laser or inkjet printer. Once the ink is dry, simply airbrush some decal sealer on the decal paper, let that dry, trim out the decals and apply them to the model. I did some tiny little Peterbilt logos this weekend using that method and they came out great.

 

[UP2CSX]

Yes, use decals. Seriously, you'll get much better results in half the time using decal stripes than trying to use making tape of any kind on a locomotive or rolling stock. No matter how carefully you do it, some paint always manages to sneak up through a seam or rivet.

 

[CP9302]

I use 3M automotive masking tape. I always try to spray across the tape or straight on to the tape. This limits spray under if the masking isn't down right. The most important thing with masking is to take your time and make sure the tape is sealed down.

I've also used decal film cut into strips. But the look of painted lines is nicer and easier to keep straight. IMHO

 

[macjet]

Thanks for the replies. Decals are not an option. I guess I wasn't too clear in my post. It's a two tone locomotive with black over red. I'm trying to get a fairly clean line between the two. This seam will be covered with decal white stripes. (This is Zehpyr's Rock Lobster paint scheme)

I may try to 3M tape. This model masking tape doesn't have a lot of flexibility for the small detail areas.

Thanks.

 

[UP2CSX]

Ah, in that case, the best bet would be some 3M automotive masking tape, which will give you the cleanest line. I'd do it with all black first and then spray the red since you'll always have to do some touch up and it will be easier with black. The white decal stripe should take care of any other problem areas.

 

[Smoke]

I use tamiya tape to tape off lines. It is made specificlly for painting so it works well. As said before take your time, and make sure you get all the rivets "covered". to cover all the details what i do is I put the tape on the model. when it is straight i press the tape down with my thumb or with a pencil eraser. Once i have pressed the tape down there is still open space between the shell and the paint. The way I elimanate this is to take a SHARP x-acto knife and carefully cut the tape. DO NOT cut the tape all the way to the bottom of the tape, but go through about half way. I then take a little strip of tape and place it over the tape I just cut. Once you press the tape down, it will be sealed. I do this way and my paint lines are crisp. As another layer of "protection" you can spray the model with glosscoat after the tape is down but before the actual paint is on. I haven'y done this yet but should work.

UP2CSX,
I would advise against spraying the darkest color first. when you spry the red over the black you will need a couple coats of paint to cover the black.

-Andrew

 

[macjet]

Thanks again for the replies. BTW, that loco looks awesome!

What's the difference between the automotive tape and the blue painters tape that I have?

 

[macjet]

Well, I know one difference. I just pulled the 3M blue tape off and it left a residue on the black paint and took some of it off.

I guess I'll go get more tape and paint and try again tomorrow.

 

[RCH]

Macjet, I just remembered the best masking material you'll ever use: Bare Metal Foil.

Get it at their website:

http://www.bare-metal.com/bare-metal-foil.html

It's incredibly thin and is pretty easy to apply. You'll never get tape down as snug as BMF. Not only that, it won't leave any sticky residue. If you happen to need any model parts "chromed" you can do worse than to try BMF. (see this image for what it looks like applied to a model: http://www.pbase.com/mecrharris/image/83000085/large.jpg)

 

[macjet]

That's interesting. If I can't get the auto tape to work I'll have to give some of this a shot. I wonder if the store in Addison carries this?

 

[rlundy90]

I use 1/8 inch automotive masking tape for my stripes. It is great for doing stripes around curves. It doesn't wrinkle when it is stretched around tight curves and seals well.I also give the edges a thin coat of dullcoat to seal the tape. The dullcoat is thin so you won't see it under the paint. Ron

 

[macjet]

Dullcoat. I never thought of that.

If I ever get this thing painted to my satisfaction (and there are two more after this one) I'm sure I'll be back on here with a "Help with installing decals!" thread.

This is starting to become very time consuming.

 

[UP2CSX]

Blue painters tape is more for masking big things like wall trim. It will leave some residue behind and it's really not meant for fine detail work. Automotive masking tape is thin and stretches and is meant to be used for shapr cut lines on things like two-tone vehicles. I've used it before and sealed it with Glosscote, which does help prevent bleeding. No mater what you do, there will always be little areas to touch up.

Ryan, I've heard of the bare metal foil before but have never tried it. I have a UP SD-40 coming and I may give it a try just see how it compares with my other (and varied) methods.

Andrew, I generally agree about not spraying the darkest color first but, in this instance, I think the red will cover the black fine since it's such a dark red. I just think touching up errors with black paint covering red is a lot easier than the other way round. I know my Nickle Plate units were way easier to touch up on the stripes when I sprayed the black first and then the yellow. Even though it took me two coats to cover the black, it was much easier to touch up the yellow mistakes with black then trying to cover the black with several layers of hand brushed yellow paint. I did these back in the days before there were decent yellow decal stripes and masking those NKP nose and side stripes was a real ball.

 

[Trucula]

I use 1/8 inch automotive masking tape for my stripes. It is great for doing stripes around curves. It doesn't wrinkle when it is stretched around tight curves and seals well.I also give the edges a thin coat of dullcoat to seal the tape. The dullcoat is thin so you won't see it under the paint. Ron

Very good point!...That's what I do. I paint cars and masking tape has tendency of absorbing paint. It's not as noticeable on a large surface like a car but on an HO car its overwhelming. It can make an edge look like a blood dripping Halloween effect. I always sealed tape edges with dulcote for a more fine line. Blue masking tape is better for not removing existing paint.

 

[Cjcrescent]

Mac;

I've pretty much used nothing but regular masking tape. I have used drafting tape, but it started getting hard to find years ago. I experimented some with scotch tape and the invisible tapes, but I've always gone back to regular masking tape. But, and this is a big but, I've never used it straight off of the roll. I generally will run a strip on to a piece of glass, and using my metal scale rule, and a knife with a fresh #11 blade, cut a fresh new edge. After I apply the tape, and getting it settled in with a pencil eraser, I then hit the edge with the same color that is covered by the tape. If there is any bleed under, it gets taken care of by the same color paint as what's under the tape. After that dries, I spray on the next color.

Jim;

I remember trying to come up with a way to paint straight stripes back before there were decent decal stripes as well. I started using a mechanical drawing ruling pen and a straight edge to take care of color dividing stripes. I still use this method to stripe running boards on steamers.

 

[Zephyr]

Good thread; this gives me some ideas as I have never tried the automotive tape. I first started with regualr masking tape, which I noticed takes the paint off fairly easily. Now I just use the blue tape you get at a hardware store, which seems to work fine and has not caused me any problems. As far as the line, I just make sure that the tape is in all the cracks and crevices and try not too paint it too thick to cause runs. For my scheme, I'm not looking for a perfect line as the white 6" stripe goes right over it anyway.

 

[macjet]

Looking good Zephyr! I hope to have some pics soon.

How do you do the white stripe on the steps?

 

[macjet]

As a side note, what works well as plastic putty? I did some drilling for ditch lights and I need to fill in a little space.

 

[Zephyr]

I just paint the steps with a very small brush and carefully apply it to the part that sticks out. My friend Matt uses an even smaller brush with a magnifying headset! The CPR AC4400 already came with the white steps, so that's a factory job (I cheated).