Making a grade crossing


goscrewyourselves

I'm the one
Hey Guys,

Now I am in the process of redoing a part of my layout, I have the opportunity of extending one of roads to cross a section of "double track". What I would like to know is how to make my own grade crossing.

I know I can buy commercial ones but would prefer to make my own if that is possible. I have seen a few video's etc where people use plaster to bring the "road" up to the level of the rails and then fill in between the rails of the track for their crossings. Is this how you guys do it or are there other alternatives?
 
That's how I did it on my layout. I think Woodland Sceneics makes a kit for it. An alternative to plaster is Smooth-It, which is just plaster that is ground finer to be smoother as far as I can tell. I did it on a curved section of track and would not recommend it. It's hard to cut the plaster away from the rails on a curve. Once the plaster is poured, use an exacto to cut the plaster away from the sides of the rails to the point where no locos or cars derail. Mask off the rails (or freehand it) and paint the surface. I couldn't get my crossing 100% smooth, so I had to lightly sand it down to the surface level of the rails. I would recommend trying it on a small piece of board and spare track first if you have any.
 
Thanks and it looks as though my grade will be on a very "curve" as well. Would it be possible to run a piece of card, or similar, the appropriate width along the insides of the rails "before" pouring the plaster/smooth it, thereby removing the necessity of having to cut the grooves for the wheels. You think that would/might work?

Either way, I am definitely going to practice on a piece of spare track first.
 
Here's one I did a couple of decades ago. I used hydrocal (because I had a couple of 50 pound bags of it handy). I have a few more there I used hydrocal, or plaster with some styrene between the rails also.

IMAG0176.jpg Misc trains 017.jpg IMAG0816.jpg
I like the idea of using styrene strips between the rails. I have Evergreen styrene that looks like planks that work well.
 
The card along the rails could work. I would say you are better off using the exacto to cut away the excess though. That's just my opinion. Only thing I can say is give it a shot, hope for the best, and let us know the results :)
 
Tony I did mine using joint compound much easier to cut at rails. I used bass wood forms on both ends to get desired width

IMG_1005_zpsf2ed7440-1-1-1.jpg


IMG_1007_zps484025cb.jpg
 
Thanks guys, seems like it is going to be the plaster, dry wall compound etc method of which I have plenty of. Will definitely be "practicing" this before I actually do it though.

I take it, the compound getting beneath the rail head on the insides of the rail is not an issue to worry about them? Having that small amount of compound in/along the insides of the rail wont cause any problems? I ask this as I can't see a way of getting that compound out, unless I am missing something.
 
Tony if you use drywall compound, put it on in thin layers allowing it to dry between layers. Otherwise it will crack as it shrinks.

Joe
 
I will be using plaster of paris, from Lowes, which is what I use on my layout for the base of the scenery and stuff. So far, and after 2 years of being down, that has held up well and dries quickly. With that being said, I rarely put the stuff down any thicker than 1/8" for the reason you stated and drying time.
 
When I was looking to make my crossings I didn't want the steep angles of approach, so what I used to make the angle longer and smoother is some wooden cabinet shims. I matched them up with the height at the thicker cutting them where I needed to make a longer smoother approach. Using dry mix joint compound making the roads and between the track areas and it worked out pretty nice.

David
 
Hey Guys,

I have seen a few video's etc where people use plaster to bring the "road" up to the level of the rails and then fill in between the rails of the track for their crossings. Is this how you guys do it or are there other alternatives?


I used the plaster, applied in two or more coats. With an exacto knife I cleaned out the part where the wheel flanges go. I have seen where some put string along the inside of the rails and pulled it out at some point, keeping the rails clean. I just plastered over everything it wasn't hard to clean out after everything dried.

I used thick copper wire for the road edge forms. I have seen some guys use styrene. One could conceivably plaster the area and cut out the road edges just as easily with a knife, however. Maybe make more dust that way.
 
Wax shoe laces from dress shoes, placed inside the web before plastering is a method I've seen. Plaster, let is set a bit, then pull out the laces. Never done it myself, but I've seen it done.
 
Years ago when i wanted to lay down streets, driveways, alleys, etc., I bought a gallon of grey paint. I also bought a package of sand mix for ceilings that is supposed to be mixed with plaster. I mixed it up until I had a thick paste, then applied it with a putty knife. My RR crossings were inlaid with balsa wood scribed and stained with brown stain.

Here is a picture from my layout back in the day, that shows the result. It has enough texture to resemble asphalt, but can also be smoothed almost to a glass like texture.

RR023.jpg
 
I made my grade crossings with raised plaster for the road, but I put in ties inside and along the outside of the rails. (balsa wood cut in thin, bendable strips that were super glued into place and then stained.)

FullSizeRender_zpse7386fd7.jpg


The poured the plaster all in one go and the cracks don't bug me at all because normal asphalt crack all the time. Worse case scenario, take a black sharpie and highlight them to make it look like tar snake patches.
 
I like the wood for those crossings! Also as an aside, I am addicted to trains and motorcycles as well. Just thought I'd throw that out there.
 



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