Looking for Feedback on my HO Layout Design

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Below is some information about the layout

- atlas code 83 track with the customline turnouts (#4 and #6)
- digitrax zephyr dcc system
- 4x8 layout space
- turns on layout the following radius 22", 20" and 18"
- looking at running some of the following engines
Broadway-limited – bli-5272 Emd sd40-2 CSX
Broadway-limited – bli-1246 emd sd40-2 NS
Atlas – 10000405 – GP40-2 PH1 CSX
Atlas – 10000676 - GP40-2 PH1 NS

I have attached a picture of the layout, i used rts 10.0 to design it.

if you have any questions let me know

thanks

Thomas
 
It looks good to me. You have a double track mainline on a 4x8, which is pretty good IMHO. And a small yard, I can't think of anything else you need.

Go build it now!

Have fun.
 
If you haven't already built the benchwork but you are definitely committed to an island layout, you'd likely be happier with a 5X8, 5X9, or 5X10.

If you keep the current design, your current configuration for one of the crossovers coming out of one of the end curves creates an unnecessary and possibly problematic s-curve.

oval_x-ovr_s-curves.gif


A center divider is also often a good idea on these small island layouts, such as found on this HO 4x8.

falls_mill_ho_4x8.gif


Or on this HO 4X8.

ca_4x8.gif


Best of luck.
 
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Good start on the layout and good choice of track and motive power. I do think Byron has pointed out the first issue with the sharp S curve problem well. Since I'm more of a scenery guy than a track guy, I think the layout is overly busy with track, leaving almost no room for scenery. The first layout Byron posted still gives you a double track mainline but also provides a lot more room for scenery. The second is lighter on scenery room but that two track yard and interchange track provides good space for a fiddle yard, where you can remove and stage different trains. You'll be surprised how important that is once you start running your railroad.

Of course, a 4x8 also assumes you have access from all sides of the layout. If not, you'll have reach problems into the middle of the layout at some point. I think you can remove some of the track from your present plan (and save yourself some money for rolling stock) and combine what you like from the other two plans. You'll have a better looking and more interesting pike if you do.
 
Thanks Guys for the feedback, i will go back and revisit the S curve issue and the other suggestions. One think about the location of the layout is i will most likely only have table access on 2-3 sides.
 
One think about the location of the layout is i will most likely only have table access on 2-3 sides.

If you have access only on two sides, the "back corner" of a 4X8 monolith is too far away in any case. So you might want to look at a different layout shape that uses the space you have more effectively. Just because they make plywood in 4X8 sheets doesn't mean that's the only way you can use it.

If you have access on 3 sides (with a short side against the wall), 5 foot width works fine.

Also, check the track-to-track spacing in the curves and straights. At those radii, you'll probably want at least 2 1/2" from track center to track center in the curves. 2" won't be enough for models of more modern equipment.
 
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Version 2 of the layout

outside main line - 23" r - flextrack
inside main line - 22" r - flex track
yard turns 20" r - flex track
 
That just seems like way too much track in the space you have available. That inside loop could be cut right at the start of the yard lead and you wouldn't lose any funtionality. Search here for "compound ladders" to see a different way to handle yard ladders that will give you more capacity in less space.
 
My original plan was for a 4x8 layout. Then I decided on a 5x8 plan, a little more room, better turn radius, etc. Then I realized how difficult it was going to be to reach the center of the layout. 20-24 inches is about the maximum feasible reach distance for me. Think about a comfortable reach for working on detail stuff, now picture yourself reaching over scenery at the edge of the table (Trees, buildings, hills, roads, telephone poles, etc). Man, 30 inches is really a stretch.

If you're going for an island, stick with 4x8 or 4x10. Like 'cuyama' shows, you might also think about using a divider. One side can be a city/industrial setting, the other side can be a coal mine or grain operation. It avoids the roundy-round feel and gives you some scenic variety.

Just my own thoughts on the topic, having just gone through the same decision process.

Good luck, let us know what you decide.
Doug
 


That just seems like way too much track in the space you have available. That inside loop could be cut right at the start of the yard lead and you wouldn't lose any funtionality. Search here for "compound ladders" to see a different way to handle yard ladders that will give you more capacity in less space.
Thanks jim, i will search for that and let you know what i find. one think i didnt mention, to accomadate the larger radius i increased the w + l of table by 6". the main think i want to have on the table is a yard, but would also like to have some main lines to be able to run 2 trains
 
As I said before

Also, check the track-to-track spacing in the curves and straights. At those radii, you'll probably want at least 2 1/2" from track center to track center in the curves. 2" won't be enough for models of more modern equipment.

And now it looks like you might be even tighter on track-to-track spacing in HO, it I am estimating correctly from your latest. Non-starter at those radii.

It would help you to read the information people are providing. If you don't understand what they are saying, ask for clarification. Persistently flailing away at CAD is not likely to result in a satisfying layout -- or even a buildable one.
 
Thank Bryon, i feel like i have a good grasp on what people are saying, the only think i am still a little confused on is the compound ladder.

Jim,

is the next screen more of a compound ladder and the best aproach for doing a yard in a small space?
 
One of the things I had to get past when doing my design is conventional thinking (for me it was that a mine I wanted to include couldn't go into the center of the track). Once I got past that I was able to come up with a design that I am much happier with.

In your case, have you thought about having the yard on the east or west side, terminating on the southern border, running north/south, and then meeting up with the shortened ovals on a curve at the top?
 
One of the things I had to get past when doing my design is conventional thinking (for me it was that a mine I wanted to include couldn't go into the center of the track). Once I got past that I was able to come up with a design that I am much happier with.

In your case, have you thought about having the yard on the east or west side, terminating on the southern border, running north/south, and then meeting up with the shortened ovals on a curve at the top?
Ianacole,

You make an interesting and good point. I never really thought about it. I will go home tonight and think about what I could do.

That also makes me think I could put a small extension onto one of the ends. What width do you guys think you need for a yard?
 
One of the things I had to get past when doing my design is conventional thinking (for me it was that a mine I wanted to include couldn't go into the center of the track). Once I got past that I was able to come up with a design that I am much happier with.

In your case, have you thought about having the yard on the east or west side, terminating on the southern border, running north/south, and then meeting up with the shortened ovals on a curve at the top?
Ianacole,

You make an interesting and good point. I never really thought about it. I will go home tonight and think about what I could do.

That also makes me think I could put a small extension onto one of the ends. What width do you guys think you need for a yard?
 
Yes, version three is a good example of a compound ladder. As you see, you can get more yard tracks in the same space using a compumd ladder than a tradition ladder.

Not sure what you mean by width of a yard. If you mean space between tracks, a lot depends on the size of your hand. Lay out three tracks. Put cars on all three. See how close you can get the tracks and still be able to rerail a car on the middle track without knocking over cars on any of the outside tracks. For most people, it's between 1.5 and 2 inches.
 
That just seems like way too much track in the space you have available. That inside loop could be cut right at the start of the yard lead and you wouldn't lose any funtionality. Search here for "compound ladders" to see a different way to handle yard ladders that will give you more capacity in less space.

Unless one has a real large layout, I like the less is more concept some folks are endorsing. Meaning a little less track and a little more scenery.
 


If you haven't already built the benchwork but you are definitely committed to an island layout, you'd likely be happier with a 5X8, 5X9, or 5X10.

If you keep the current design, your current configuration for one of the crossovers coming out of one of the end curves creates an unnecessary and possibly problematic s-curve.

oval_x-ovr_s-curves.gif


A center divider is also often a good idea on these small island layouts, such as found on this HO 4x8.

falls_mill_ho_4x8.gif


Or on this HO 4X8.

ca_4x8.gif


Best of luck.

I like the second one with the center divider - of course there is an option for a hill or street or some other scenery. The third one I find the curves on the one end to be quite tight, especially if he wants to run passenger cars or larger steam engines. As far as backdrops go, I hope to have something on the outside perimeter of my layout at some point. I wanted to keep the scenery unbroken throughout my layout.
 
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