Long Weekend "Worker's day" Photo Fun!!! May 1-2-3 and 4
- Thread starter mikeknuckey
- Start date
CNR--
What a beautiful pair of models! Question--were some of the CNR reefers also painted gray? I seem to remember Athearn putting out a gray one many years ago, but I have no idea whether the paint scheme was authentic or not.
Beautiful job, though.
Well, thought I'd post a couple of shots of my PSC Rio Grande F-81 2-10-2 in action. Friends of mine get a kick out of this HUGE locomotive and its little dinky Vandy tender. It's a smooth runner and a REAL powerhouse.
Here it is with a freight on Yuba Pass
And going over my 'other' big bridge, the Deer Creek Viaduct
Tom
What a beautiful pair of models! Question--were some of the CNR reefers also painted gray? I seem to remember Athearn putting out a gray one many years ago, but I have no idea whether the paint scheme was authentic or not.
Beautiful job, though.
Well, thought I'd post a couple of shots of my PSC Rio Grande F-81 2-10-2 in action. Friends of mine get a kick out of this HUGE locomotive and its little dinky Vandy tender. It's a smooth runner and a REAL powerhouse.
Here it is with a freight on Yuba Pass
And going over my 'other' big bridge, the Deer Creek Viaduct
Tom
Nice work so far, guys.
Mike, looks like a good start on the boxcar. I like the painting holder too.
Nice shots from down under, James. The trackage for the rail car certainly looks sketchy at best but I guess it must work.
Mac, nice paint job on the GP-60's. That's nice thing about freelancing - you can change history to suit changing market conditions.
Tom, very nice job on that bridge. It even has the proper anchor points. Must have been a bear to build. I drool over the Key brass loco everytime you post a picture of it.
Jeffrey, Athearn did a really nice job on that RBOX car. Their previous runs didn't have near the quality of paint that this one has. I'll have to keep my eyes open for one.
John, those pilings look really great. That's going to be a nice harbor scene when you get done.
Zephyr, I always forget how long those rebuilt fuel tenders are until I see a model of them. They were a good idea but, like Josh wrote, some engineer didn't do the calcs very well on what a live load does to a frameless tank car. OTOH, they sure look cool.
Carl, those newer Atlas plate girder bridges with the railroad name and slogans painted on them look really nice. I wish I had a place to put one o my layout.
Crandell, pretty nice work for a picture that was a "hasty concoction".
Mike, looks like a good start on the boxcar. I like the painting holder too.
Nice shots from down under, James. The trackage for the rail car certainly looks sketchy at best but I guess it must work.
Mac, nice paint job on the GP-60's. That's nice thing about freelancing - you can change history to suit changing market conditions.
Tom, very nice job on that bridge. It even has the proper anchor points. Must have been a bear to build. I drool over the Key brass loco everytime you post a picture of it.
Jeffrey, Athearn did a really nice job on that RBOX car. Their previous runs didn't have near the quality of paint that this one has. I'll have to keep my eyes open for one.
John, those pilings look really great. That's going to be a nice harbor scene when you get done.
Zephyr, I always forget how long those rebuilt fuel tenders are until I see a model of them. They were a good idea but, like Josh wrote, some engineer didn't do the calcs very well on what a live load does to a frameless tank car. OTOH, they sure look cool.
Carl, those newer Atlas plate girder bridges with the railroad name and slogans painted on them look really nice. I wish I had a place to put one o my layout.
Crandell, pretty nice work for a picture that was a "hasty concoction".
mikeknuckey
Far away in Chile...
Chilean Copper!!! and it works terrific!!!
wheeler1963
Aurora & Portland Owner
Painted this SW10 BUG WCTR unit for Martin_Lumber this week. Just surprised him with the pictures so I can post them here now. Happy Birthday Phil!!!!!
jeffrey-wimberly
Dr Frankendiesel
The new RailBox has been darkened slightly with some subtle weathering. The couplers have also been changed out. It's now sporting a pair of Kadee #5's
Thanks, I can't take credit for the caboose though, I bought it at an estate sale of another modeller. I am building second one though.
The Athearn reffer is corrrect, for a steel reefer. They were painted a sort-of blueish-grey. the wood reefers were painted boxcar red like mine. I weathered mine by wet sanding the bottoms of the sides a bit and dry brushing a lighter shade of brown in places.
Cjcrescent
Master Mechanic
Josh;
Seeing those things, the tankers, reminded me of something I saw in my hometown while on a visit there.
CSX was just coming into town with a train from Montgomery, with 3 locos in the consist. The last one caused me to look twice. It was an old GP-30. Except there were no grills, fans, doors in the hood. Instead the loco was sheathed in smooth plate and printed on the side underneath the large CSX was "Fuel Tender".
Things like this never occur when you have a camera!
Boy, Tom, you've built some great bridges as well as great scenery. Those brass locos aren't too bad either.
Glen, nice weathering job on that CNT reefer. It a little more squat than most I've seen. Who made the kit?
Jerome, nice looking bug. Almost anything looks pretty when it's fresh from the paint shop.
Steve, looks like those two trains were whipping right along when you got those pictures. What are the two amber lights on the front of the cab in the second picture used for?
Jeffrey, there's something about the way you're using the india ink that makes it come out looking splotchy instead of adding a general darker tone to the boxcar. How exactly are you applying it?
Glen, nice weathering job on that CNT reefer. It a little more squat than most I've seen. Who made the kit?
Jerome, nice looking bug. Almost anything looks pretty when it's fresh from the paint shop.
Steve, looks like those two trains were whipping right along when you got those pictures. What are the two amber lights on the front of the cab in the second picture used for?
Jeffrey, there's something about the way you're using the india ink that makes it come out looking splotchy instead of adding a general darker tone to the boxcar. How exactly are you applying it?
MLW
Active Member
Excellent....as usual
WOW! Guys! Awesome begining to the weekend. Thank you for sharing.
Quite a treat and I just can't get enough! I will try to post something .
I am working on the overpass right now, but need to do some work around the house too (since its so nice)
No stat holliday here either, except the one I took
Please, keep posting away.
WOW! Guys! Awesome begining to the weekend. Thank you for sharing.
Quite a treat and I just can't get enough!
I will try to post something .I am working on the overpass right now, but need to do some work around the house too (since its so nice)
No stat holliday here either, except the one I took
Please, keep posting away.
Steve B
Firefighter
Jim Believe it or not headlights were not used on trains here until it became mandatory in the early 1980's, the lights in the centre are just marker lights, thats all that the train crew had to see what was ahead with, they just flew along in the dark blind
Just found this 1930's miners pick on a local coal mine rail track bed, along with large bag of coal, there is nothing else to tell you that a mine used to be located on the site, it's covered in trees and weeds
Just found this 1930's miners pick on a local coal mine rail track bed, along with large bag of coal, there is nothing else to tell you that a mine used to be located on the site, it's covered in trees and weeds
jeffrey-wimberly
Dr Frankendiesel
It's not India ink. It's black leather dye and alcohol. The dye adheres more to the paint in some areas than in others.
UP2CSX--
Thanks for the comments on the bridges. Actually, that Bullard's Bar bridge wasn't too hard to build at all--the Faller kit comes with BIG pieces, LOL! I did a little 'Americanizing' on it, but not too much. If you want to see a really well-done version of it, ArtHill has one spanning one of his canyons that is just spectacular. And he did a LOT of modifying on it. Looks great!
The one that was a real bear to build was the Micro-Engineering viaduct, because I had to configure it to a 34" radius on a 2% downgrade. The first tower took me almost a week, but after that, it was a little easier. However I could not get the ME bridge track to curve on it--rails kept snapping out of the ties. Finally closed my eyes and used good old Atlas code 100 flex-track and contact cement and installed code 83 guard rails. Luckily it's tall enough that not too many people will see the deck (I hope)
Tom
Thanks for the comments on the bridges. Actually, that Bullard's Bar bridge wasn't too hard to build at all--the Faller kit comes with BIG pieces, LOL! I did a little 'Americanizing' on it, but not too much. If you want to see a really well-done version of it, ArtHill has one spanning one of his canyons that is just spectacular. And he did a LOT of modifying on it. Looks great!
The one that was a real bear to build was the Micro-Engineering viaduct, because I had to configure it to a 34" radius on a 2% downgrade. The first tower took me almost a week, but after that, it was a little easier. However I could not get the ME bridge track to curve on it--rails kept snapping out of the ties. Finally closed my eyes and used good old Atlas code 100 flex-track and contact cement and installed code 83 guard rails. Luckily it's tall enough that not too many people will see the deck (I hope)
Tom
Steve,
Very "artsy" picture of that pick. Makes me wonder sometimes how long it will be before the earth shows no signs we've been here once the big comet comes or whatever get us.
I've always noticed that UK locomotives never had proper headlights. I thought maybe there were street lights along the whole right of way. Not only must that have been a harrowing experience for the engine drivers but how did drives at unguarded level crossings know a train was coming? Just seems like a bad idea all the way around.
Jeffrey, why are you using leather dye? The nature of the material is that it's solvent based and needs a special solvent for thinning and alcohol doesn't really work very well. It's also formulated to be used on an absorbent surface, not an impermeable surface like plastic. India ink is reasonably cheap and will dilute with alcohol. I think that, if you give it a try, you'd like the results a lot better.
Tom, I guess that's one of the reasons I don't have high bridges on my layout. We had some on the club layout I used to belong to and we had many of the same problems you've described. Yours came out really good though. I'm sure I would have shattered the thing into about a thousand pieces.
Very "artsy" picture of that pick. Makes me wonder sometimes how long it will be before the earth shows no signs we've been here once the big comet comes or whatever get us.
I've always noticed that UK locomotives never had proper headlights. I thought maybe there were street lights along the whole right of way.
Not only must that have been a harrowing experience for the engine drivers but how did drives at unguarded level crossings know a train was coming? Just seems like a bad idea all the way around.Jeffrey, why are you using leather dye? The nature of the material is that it's solvent based and needs a special solvent for thinning and alcohol doesn't really work very well. It's also formulated to be used on an absorbent surface, not an impermeable surface like plastic. India ink is reasonably cheap and will dilute with alcohol. I think that, if you give it a try, you'd like the results a lot better.
Tom, I guess that's one of the reasons I don't have high bridges on my layout. We had some on the club layout I used to belong to and we had many of the same problems you've described. Yours came out really good though. I'm sure I would have shattered the thing into about a thousand pieces.
jeffrey-wimberly
Dr Frankendiesel
I'm using it because an expert modeler who's been using it for many years told me it would work well. How much India ink would I need to dilute into a quart of alcohol?
VA3TOM
Member
Greetings to all!
I have been working on the MGL. I now have Digitrax in, and I am installing decoders in the fleet. I also have been repowering some of the equipment.
Actually I am modelling some of the local electric railway that ran in this area, the Niagara, St. Catharines and Toronto Railway. Here is a few shots of Unit 14. This is one of my favorite units as the huge trucks they used fill up the entire underframe. I haven't painted the trucks yet, I am still running them in.
I have a few others I am trying to power up, but the work is slow!
I have been working on the MGL. I now have Digitrax in, and I am installing decoders in the fleet. I also have been repowering some of the equipment.
Actually I am modelling some of the local electric railway that ran in this area, the Niagara, St. Catharines and Toronto Railway. Here is a few shots of Unit 14. This is one of my favorite units as the huge trucks they used fill up the entire underframe. I haven't painted the trucks yet, I am still running them in.
I have a few others I am trying to power up, but the work is slow!
jbaakko
Diesel Detail Freak
Got myself the two Mini Coopers from the Reel Rides line, and two of each, Ford Tempo & Escort from Freash Cherries, plus I received two more Walthers Cryogenic cars!
The F1 Hydro boat is 1:87, from NewRay. Picked it up from a guy in Italy, on eBay. Trailer is from JL Innovate, with a scratch built frame to hold the boat.
The F1 Hydro boat is 1:87, from NewRay. Picked it up from a guy in Italy, on eBay. Trailer is from JL Innovate, with a scratch built frame to hold the boat.
Cjcrescent
Master Mechanic
Jim;
Alcohol and shoe dye is another "old" form of weathering. Its been around since at least 1975 or so when Wayne Wesolaski (sp) first started using it as a weathering media and wood stain.
The big advantage is that the dye and alcohol never completey "mix" and depending on how "deep" you ran the brush into the dye, determined how much black you actually got applied to the object. For different shading on a car or even a loco, this formula can work very well.
But anything its applied to thats non-porous, needs to at least be Dullcoated prior to application. Model Railroader, and Railroad Model Craftsman both had articles on the use of this "stuff".
