Loco Break-In, track cleaning, wheel cleaning, etc

[CoolRuehle]

I have a Bachmann Spectrum 44-tonner that just came out of the box.

I "Labelled" the gear set, and it runs much smoother and more quietly. I have run it in circles for a half hour in one direction, then in the other direction. All of this seems to have drastically improved it's running qualities.

Anything else recommended for break-in?

----------------

I ran through the locomotive wheel cleaning procedure from Model Railroader . . . the paper-towel with the oil on it trick. . . OMG, the crap that came off of my older locos!!!

----------------

I also Labelled the gear sets on the older locos, much smoother and quieter now.

----------------

I also purchased a Walthers "Brite-Boy" eraser. Man is THAT a simple and VERY effective, track-cleaning tool

----------------
Thanks for all of the great ideas guys!

 

[stationmaster]

A drop to the floor? Just kidding.

Check to make sure its lubed, but don't over lube. That's just as bad as running "dry".

I usually run my engines as you have, then run them again for a 1/2 hour, 15minutes or so in each direction, with a few cars in tow. You can make sure that the couplers are functioning this way also.

Bob

 

[Selector]

M.B. Klein was blowing out Spectrum J Class 4-8-4 DC versions just a few weeks before Christmas. I do model the N&W as a frotolancer (one of about four main roads I play with), so I had to jump.

I have read that this one model is not a terribly good one in terms of fidelity to the prototype, but it looks enough like a J that it pleases me to have it. The problem, though, is that the darned thing won't accelerate smoothly. Not only that, but the heavy Tsunami can't seem to make sense of the BEMF and it starts to run the chuff rate up to runaway sewing machine speed while the engine struggles and hesitates up through 20 scale mph. Once the engine gets up to speed it is just great...and looks and sounds great...all synched up. But that stop to 20 scale mph portion of an acceleration is just darned awful.

I have run the thing around my layout for between two and three hours, both directions, in an attempt to break it in. No dice.

My decoder installer is stumped (he sold a Spectrum 2-8-0 just weeks ago because he couldn't get it to run properly either). He finally epoxied (painted) one driver on its back face in quadrants with four evenly spaced clear "spokes" and wired a phospor bronze wiper to it anchored on the frame. His version of a cam. He claims it works like a hot damn now. I will be getting it back next week.

-Crandell

 

[Screwjack]

I have a Bachmann Spectrum 44-tonner that just came out of the box.

I "Labelled" the gear set, and it runs much smoother and more quietly. I have run it in circles for a half hour in one direction, then in the other direction. All of this seems to have drastically improved it's running qualities.

Anything else recommended for break-in?

----------------

I ran through the locomotive wheel cleaning procedure from Model Railroader . . . the paper-towel with the oil on it trick. . . OMG, the crap that came off of my older locos!!!

----------------

I also Labelled the gear sets on the older locos, much smoother and quieter now.

----------------

I also purchased a Walthers "Brite-Boy" eraser. Man is THAT a simple and VERY effective, track-cleaning tool

----------------
Thanks for all of the great ideas guys!

Excuse my ignorance, but what does "Labelled the gear sets" mean?

 

[hamltnblue]

M.B. Klein was blowing out Spectrum J Class 4-8-4 DC versions just a few weeks before Christmas. I do model the N&W as a frotolancer (one of about four main roads I play with), so I had to jump.

I have read that this one model is not a terribly good one in terms of fidelity to the prototype, but it looks enough like a J that it pleases me to have it. The problem, though, is that the darned thing won't accelerate smoothly. Not only that, but the heavy Tsunami can't seem to make sense of the BEMF and it starts to run the chuff rate up to runaway sewing machine speed while the engine struggles and hesitates up through 20 scale mph. Once the engine gets up to speed it is just great...and looks and sounds great...all synched up. But that stop to 20 scale mph portion of an acceleration is just darned awful.

I have run the thing around my layout for between two and three hours, both directions, in an attempt to break it in. No dice.

My decoder installer is stumped (he sold a Spectrum 2-8-0 just weeks ago because he couldn't get it to run properly either). He finally epoxied (painted) one driver on its back face in quadrants with four evenly spaced clear "spokes" and wired a phospor bronze wiper to it anchored on the frame. His version of a cam. He claims it works like a hot damn now. I will be getting it back next week.

-Crandell

Sounds like something is binding up. Make sure all moving parts are lubricated and the tie rods on the drive wheels aren't too tight. I had one of the rods slightly bent on my M1a and was causing problems until I straightened it out.

 

[Selector]

Thanks for the tips. Both my repair guy/decoder installer and I have banged our heads on this thing for weeks, and neither of us can see anything wrong with it. The gears are fine, the shafts fine, bearings fine, nothing missing, rubbing, bent. The drivers are in quarter. It has us both stumped. He doesn't have much good to say about Spectrum engines generally.

To our OP, running engines in both directions at varying speeds is the best method, and lubing with an appropriate lube every few months, depending on use, is the way to go. I can only hope it turns out to be all my 4-8-4 needs.

-Crandell

 

[Wastrel]

Labelle is a brand of oil.

 

[Espeefan]

Thanks for the tips. Both my repair guy/decoder installer and I have banged our heads on this thing for weeks, and neither of us can see anything wrong with it. The gears are fine, the shafts fine, bearings fine, nothing missing, rubbing, bent. The drivers are in quarter. It has us both stumped. He doesn't have much good to say about Spectrum engines generally.

To our OP, running engines in both directions at varying speeds is the best method, and lubing with an appropriate lube every few months, depending on use, is the way to go. I can only hope it turns out to be all my 4-8-4 needs.

-Crandell

Crandell, Have you tried the kick start voltage? Maybe a little momentum? The Tsumani has enough flexibility in it that you should be able to smooth this out if there are no mechanical problems. OTOH, no decoder will make a stinker run smoothly. Are you using or do you have access to Decoder Pro? A session on the program track with Decoder Pro may be what you need. I have not been big into Decoder Pro in the past, but the new diesel Tsunamis are forcing my hand. Too many adjustments & possible combinations!

Unfortunately, the Spectrum mechanisms aren't the best out there, though for the cost they aren't bad

 

[lmackattack]

The problem, though, is that the darned thing won't accelerate smoothly. Not only that, but the heavy Tsunami can't seem to make sense of the BEMF and it starts to run the chuff rate up to runaway sewing machine speed while the engine struggles and hesitates up through 20 scale mph. Once the engine gets up to speed it is just great...and looks and sounds great...all synched up. But that stop to 20 scale mph portion of an acceleration is just darned awful.

I have run the thing around my layout for between two and three hours, both directions, in an attempt to break it in. No dice.

My decoder installer is stumped (he sold a Spectrum 2-8-0 just weeks ago because he couldn't get it to run properly either). He finally epoxied (painted) one driver on its back face in quadrants with four evenly spaced clear "spokes" and wired a phospor bronze wiper to it anchored on the frame. His version of a cam. He claims it works like a hot damn now. I will be getting it back next week.

-Crandell

Crandell this was exactly what my spectrum mountain does. It is better now with a kato motor but it still needs a cam if I want it to sync at slow speeds and a heavy train.
My 2-8-0 syncs fine all the way to the point that train is too heavy and the drivers are slipping

 

[Selector]

I had a little email discussion with Jarrette at Soundtraxx over this a couple of weeks back and he suggested fiddling with a high numbered CV, I think it was CV 212. I passed the tip on to my installer, but he finally gave up and went with the mechanical solution.

Truthfully, I haven't fiddled with anything except CV's 2,3, and four. I had them up, way up, and all the way down to zero. Nothing seems to work. Maybe torque compensation is my next adventure.

Thanks for the tips, guys. We should probably return this topic back to our very patient OP.

-Crandell

 

[Cjcrescent]

Crandell;

If you or your installer hasn't already done this, download the manuals for the Tsunami. There are a lot of adjustment that can be done on a Tsunami that doesn't come with the instructions you are given. Particularly in adjustment of motor control CV's

CoolRuehle

As to breaking in and maintenance of a model, the break in technique is just about what I use, and then once a year, whether the loco has been run a lot or not, every one of my engines are tore down and gets relubed, cleaned, (dusted, etc) and if needed, paint touched up. I have several brass engines dating from the 1960's and this maintenance schedule lets them stay running better than when they were new.

 

[CoolRuehle]

"Labelled the gear sets"

Excuse my ignorance, but what does "Labelled the gear sets" mean?

Labelle is a type of plastic-compatible GREASE (not an oil), that contains PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) which is better know as "Teflon", a Dupont brand name. We all know a little about Teflon and how slick it can be in most cases.

Labelle will not adversely effect plastic gears like other pertoleum-based greases will do.

I removed the existing grease (mechancially, not with a solvent) as best as I could, and replaced it with the Labelle product.

--Jon

 

[Selector]

I have done that, Carey, but thanks for the advice. I guess the real message from you is....why not read it!

Good question. I was hoping it would be a straightforward cure, and not an obscure one that will be found on page 217, in the third footnote. But I guess it's what I'll have to do. Who knows, I am probably going to be better for it anyway.

-Crandell

 

[Wastrel]

Actually Jon, labelle makes both an oil and the white grease you are speaking of. I personally dont like the white grease and use the oil product. It comes with a nice needle applicator much like the one found on Fallers cement, which makes dosing a breeze.

 

[CoolRuehle]

Actually Jon, labelle makes both an oil and the white grease you are speaking of. I personally dont like the white grease and use the oil product. It comes with a nice needle applicator much like the one found on Fallers cement, which makes dosing a breeze.

I did not know that! It is good information. I was trying to get the greade into some areas that it just would not go very well, and the oil would do it. (like CV joints, etc).

Thanks!

--jon

 

[Wastrel]

Here is a link that shows all the labelle lubes.
http://con-cor.com/Labelle.html
Most of us who use the oil pinch the end of the needle with a set of pliers to control the flow just a tad bit more than what the needle allows for. The oil is great as it allows you to do a fast lube on a gear-set that has the occasional squeek without having to strip the loco down.

 

[Cjcrescent]

I have done that, Carey, but thanks for the advice. I guess the real message from you is....why not read it!


-Crandell

Nah, just trying to pass on some info that you may not have been aware of. The Tsunami lets you adjust something called the Ki, Kp, etc., under the advanced tab in Decoder Pro.

Rex had some problems with getting the Tsunami to run in his Bachmann 2-8-0 smoothly, until these values were adjusted.

The values are present in the Tsunami's supplied with Bachmann locos.

 

[UP2CSX]

One of the tricks I've done is to disassemble the gear towers and inspect each gear for burrs. Almost every engine seems to had at least a few small burrs that need to be cleanded up, especially Bachmann engines. Use a fine jewelers file to clean up the gears. I then clean off all the factory lube with alcohol, reassemble, and add a few drops of Pearl Drops toothpaste. Run the engine only for about five minutes or so. The Pearl Drops burnish the gears just enough to give the gears a nice mating surface. Disassemble and clean them up again using alcohol. Reassemble and then add about two drops of plastic safe automatic transmission fluid to each gear tower. Do the back and forth run in technique as described above and you should have a sweet running engine. It sounds like a pain (and it is) but you'll only have to do it once and your engines will run 100% better than when they came from the factory.

 

[stationmaster]

One of the tricks I've done is to disassemble the gear towers and inspect each gear for burrs. Almost every engine seems to had at least a few small burrs that need to be cleanded up, especially Bachmann engines. Use a fine jewelers file to clean up the gears. I then clean off all the factory lube with alcohol, reassemble, and add a few drops of Pearl Drops toothpaste. Run the engine only for about five minutes or so. The Pearl Drops burnish the gears just enough to give the gears a nice mating surface. Disassemble and clean them up again using alcohol. Reassemble and then add about two drops of plastic safe automatic transmission fluid to each gear tower. Do the back and forth run in technique as described above and you should have a sweet running engine. It sounds like a pain (and it is) but you'll only have to do it once and your engines will run 100% better than when they came from the factory.[/QUOTE

And they will have fresher breath and a whiter smile.

(Sorry, I couldn't resist)

Bob

 

[UP2CSX]

LOL, plus shiny gears. The Pearl Drops really is a nice product though, just abrasive enough to burnish gears without tearing them up. It seems that gear towers are put together now with no idea of quality control so doing something to correct the situation really helps.