Lionel Lion chief dirty track.


Redrider

Member
I posted a thread when I joined the forum that was placed in the Tin Plate forum. No problem, I'll just fill you in. I have an elevated track that I run a Lionel Lion Chief Mikado Steam Engine and it's consist. It's my grandson's train. He's so thrilled. Anyway, it's very close to the ceiling, in a room heated with propane gas. I have vents to the outside for fresh air, doesn't work, but that does allow the excess heat that builds up when the heat rises to escape.....rather slowly. It's in a basement area, and at one time the room itself, my train room, was a water cistern under my garage. Now it's a train room under my garage. But the room lends itself to massive rust build up if you don't run the train often. I keep a track clean car in the consist at all times. Every time I run the train, it cleans its own track. Mainly it just keeps the rails clean enough to continue constant contact with the current. But you let that track get the least bit ahead of you, and oh is it fun trying to get the train to make one complete run around the oval.

If you have this problem, time and other commitments take you away from a scheduled run to keep the track clean, and rust builds up, don't fret. I just discovered that perseverance and one of those 1/4 inch thick green scrubber pads, as well as a dust buster, works wonders. You can also make the train help as well. My elevated track has two useless, but rather cool bridges on it. I discovered I'm crafty. Illusion bridges to coin a phrase. I thankfully left myself some openings to be able to reach in and push the stopped train along until it reaches a clean spot and can continue. I used the green scrubber pad to clean the rust off the track I can get too, then dust busted all the rust dust. Does a number on the filter. Dawn squeeze bottle and water, clean as a whistle. I would then give the train a launching ramp, jazz up the speed, and when it launched across the clean track, clean being a relevant term here, when it hit some rusty track, you'd see sparks fly and it would slow down, and finally just stop.

Push, push, push, HELLO!! Off it would go again finding another stretch of clean enough track to keep moving. I think you can gather that the unclean track was inside the bridges. But, if you run it enough, and you stay it, at some point the train itself will sand down the rust enough to get good contact, and there you go. I turned the lights off, that room gets DARK. Engine looked like that movie Hellrider where the motorcycle riding skeleton rode around on fire. Not one of Nick's best, but cool. At one spot just outside the end of the bridge, the engine would hesitate but keep going. As soon as the caboose went by I would scrub the area, vacuum it, and within one trip, no more hesitation. After it was able to make a full run at speed without sparks or hesitation, I poured some track clean and electrical contact enhancer liquid on one of the track clean car pads, and left the one behind that one dry. I ran the train 10 laps and basically added the cleaner and wiped it dry, so the bridge sections got cleaned and lubed. If you don't have one, a track clean car is can work wonders on keeping that black stuff off your track or at least at bay. I use one on all 7 of my trains, not to mention my grandson's. He's so excited.

So if you have a suspect track, or a dead spot, or places where the engine goes from humming along to coughing and choking, let the train go by, lock in on where that was, and wipe it off with a dry cotton cloth. Next trip by you may be rewarded with more hum and no cough.

Thanks for listening, hope I helped someone out there solve a problem.
John
 
You are a talented story teller! I would like to see a photo of your train.

I have had both an elevated railroad and a cistern, only not in the same place...
 
Thanks for the compliment. I believe in not only telling a story, but trying to make it somewhat entertaining to read. Only problem with that is the length it can take on before I get to the point. Puts the wife to sleep, so at least something good comes from it.

Cistern became obsolete several years ago when we finally got water piped from a public source to our rural location. It had water in it when we stopped using it, dry as a bone when I looked to see how much it still had in it. I guess latching onto city water was a good idea after all. Never did figure out where the water went. In any case, it was dry and all I needed was a door so I called a company in Elizabethtown, KY and we got ourselves a door, not to mention quite the muddy mess to clean up in the basement. Thank goodness for wet/dry vacs.

Thanks to the size of the room I have 7 working trains. Here's the photo I sent the other forum, not great, but gives you an idea.
 

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Thanks for the compliment. I believe in not only telling a story, but trying to make it somewhat entertaining to read. Only problem with that is the length it can take on before I get to the point. Puts the wife to sleep, so at least something good comes from it.

Cistern became obsolete several years ago when we finally got water piped from a public source to our rural location. It had water in it when we stopped using it, dry as a bone when I looked to see how much it still had in it. I guess latching onto city water was a good idea after all. Never did figure out where the water went. In any case, it was dry and all I needed was a door so I called a company in Elizabethtown, KY and we got ourselves a door, not to mention quite the muddy mess to clean up in the basement. Thank goodness for wet/dry vacs.

Thanks to the size of the room I have 7 working trains. Here's the photo I sent the other forum, not great, but gives you an idea.
Nothing at all what I imagined from your description! I pictured a track around the outside edge and a dark, smoky room with puddles of water on the floor.

funny that,

Dave LASM
 
That was 5 minutes after the guys finished. Minus the track of course. I'm no carpenter by any stretch of anyone's imagination, but for some reason, "if I imagine it, I can make it work". Not sure why, couldn't drive a nail if it were a buick when I was a teenager, then I overheard a guy yell, "USE YOUR WRIST NOT YOUR ARM!" Been driving nails like a pro since. One errant barked order across a room and I can drive a nail. Still can't use a circular saw worth a damn, SKILL is not a good name for it in my hands. More like the long and winding road. But, I kept at it and my sister helped me with the floor and the drywall, mud job sucks like a nuclear vacuum cleaner, but it's a train room not a hotel room at the Marriott.

I have a question if I may. If not, just don't read this. I mentioned the Lion chief engine on my elevated track. It of course runs on Bluetooth remote. Is it normal for the remote not to come on, brand new batteries, for a few tries before the orange light lights up and tells you the remote is on? I power the track, the engine emits a beep beep beep, over and over until the orange light on the remote comes on and then you get the engine chuff sound from the locomotive. Actually the tender has a speaker in it that makes all the sounds, but who cares. My remote, brand new batteries, has a tendency to force me to flip the switch, "on/off, on/off" maybe 5 or 6 times before the light comes on. In some cases I'll on/off and just as I off, you see a faint orange light, but of course i just turned the remote off. It's as if the remote was trying to say, "well if you'd waited one more split second I would have come on."

Any ideas
Thanks
John
 
I mentioned in my first post that one of the things I did to help clean my track and add electrical cohesion, is that right, cohesion? Well, anyway. I poured some of the cleaner on one of my track clean car pads. Ran one loaded, one dry. Well, that wasn't such a great idea. In fact it was a bad one, considering how the cleaning pads are attached to the cleaning plates.

I use an adhesive backed form of fine velcro. Not the really fuzzy stuff, but the loop side that is more like berber carpet. It's more cloth than loops. I had to switch to that because, gravity I guess, was causing the fuzzy stuff to lose grip on cleaning pad in the corners, and the corners of the cleaning pad were getting caught in the switch rails and derailing the car. By using the cloth loop (my term) type velcro both on the plate and as a cleaning pad (white works well) I solved the "flying corners" issue.

Problem. If you pour cleaning agent on the pad, the cleaning agent soaks through to the velcro attached to the plate, soaks through that one and more or less puts and end to the sticky glue substance that holds that pad to the plate. Didn't know that. Know now. So, if you run a track clean car similar or like the ones I use, best to just run the cars dry. Works for me. If you run a car that is designed to use liquid cleaners, then you're fine. If your pads attach through the use of something other than adhesive backed velcro, you're fine. Hope this post helps someone avoid what I had to learn by trial and error.
 




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