Leveling Foam Top

[ianacole]

While searching, I found the "mistakes" thread that identified a problem with not leveling the foam laid on a table top prior to securing the roadbed (the next step in my plan). What I couldn't find was the best approach for leveling the top. Would a stiff, metal wire, heavy duty brush be a good approach, followed by a layer of plaster cloth? Should I be securing the roadbed directly to the foam, or could I secure it to a plaster cloth layer?

Thanks!

Ian

 

[ICG/SOU]

I'm going to use a small 2x4 block of wood and 150 grit sandpaper. That idea would have solved some of my problems.

 

[ianacole]

Any plans for the "foam dust?" How long of a block are you planning on using? The longer the plane the smoother any transitions become.

(and it was your listed mistake I was referencing thanks for chiming in).

 

[Motley]

This is quite funny, because I never thought of leveling the foam layer. But I did lay down WS grass matt which helped fill the gaps in between the foam sections.

But my benchwork is not completely level either.

My layout resembles the real contours of the land now. Sure I ran into a couple of issues while laying the track, but I resolved them and my trains run derailment free right now.

So bottom line is, as long as you don't have huge valleys and hills, I don't think perfectly leveled 100% is needed.

Also, I would just glue the roadbed (cork?) directly to the foam layer, no need for plaster unless your making mountains. (That's what I did at least.)

Let's see some progress pics Ian.

 

[kenw]

for shaping foam, Stanley's "Shur-form" (spelling?) is like an aggressive rasp. About the size of a hand plane, it makes quick work out of shaping foam, either into flats or carving up mountains. It won't leave a super-smooth surface on foam, but it will level it quickly.

It is a good idea to jerry-rig a vacuum cleaner hose to it while you use it. Ask me how I know.....

It's available at any decent small hardware or bigbox hardware store. $10?

 

[ICG/SOU]

Any plans for the "foam dust?" How long of a block are you planning on using? The longer the plane the smoother any transitions become.

(and it was your listed mistake I was referencing thanks for chiming in).

Shop vac and dryer sheets. 2x4x4 ish.

 

[ianacole]

Thanks all! Hopefully I'll be able to start the next phase next weekend (racing this upcoming one).

Also, I would just glue the roadbed (cork?) directly to the foam layer, no need for plaster unless your making mountains. (That's what I did at least.)

Let's see some progress pics Ian.

I'm leaning towards the Woodland Scenics foam roadbed. I really like this new layout (thanks for all the help and suggestions Michael!), but I really need to get to the point where I'm installing switch machines to really enjoy the variety. Here is the track laid, and some of the buildings in place so I have some idea as to how things are going to lay out:

Southern leg, my DPM Coal River Station Gold kit (enroute) will go along the right side, with the coal loader going on the inside track. I plan on a mountain with a tunnel around the end, with access from the side, for the mine "bridge" to tie into:

Here is the Eastern leg, I was really worried that I wouldn't be able to fit the Walthers Modern Roundhouse (the size really took me by surprise), but it fit just fine:

Here is one of the problem areas that lead to this thread:

And a couple more of my nearly complete roundhouse. Just finishing up the lighting and the track inside, then it will be complete:

So, like I mentioned earlier, I think my next step is to do the roadbed, then to start working on the switch machines. I will have some paired turnouts controlled by one machine (4 pairs I think), but that still leaves me with 18ish switch machines to purchase, install, then wire to the LED switch panel floating in my brain.

 

[Motley]

Oh wow you have made alot of progress! It's looking really good. I really like that roundhouse, that's gonna be sweet!

And now you have a trackplan that should keep your interest. Excellent work.

Can't wait to see what your gonna do for Union Station

Michael

 

[BN8002]

for shaping foam, Stanley's "Shur-form" (spelling?) is like an aggressive rasp. About the size of a hand plane, it makes quick work out of shaping foam, either into flats or carving up mountains. It won't leave a super-smooth surface on foam, but it will level it quickly.

It is a good idea to jerry-rig a vacuum cleaner hose to it while you use it. Ask me how I know.....

It's available at any decent small hardware or bigbox hardware store. $10?

This is the same method I used on my board..Now i didnt use standard styrofoam board, but it is a foam board and it has worked great.

 

[Motley]

A few tips on trackwork that I learned from the experts here...

1. Glue the roadbed down with Latex + Silicone Adhesive (Gray or Clear).


2. Get some drywall screws. For flextrack, lay it down on the roadbed and secure into place with drywall screws on the outside of the rails, between the ties. Makes it alot easier to solder and glue on curves.

3. Just squirt some caulk in between the ties every 6-8 inches. And clean the caulk off the top of the ties and rails.

4. Use track joiners, and solder the outside portion of the joiner. File excess solder if neccessary, specially if solder gets on the inside of the rail.

Cork roadbed is better for sound deadening, and cheaper too.

 

[ianacole]

Thanks Michael! Very good advice. On the cork roadbed, where did you source yours? Sound isn't an issue, but cheaper is always better. I found the foam from WS runs ~$30 for 72'.

 

[Motley]

Thanks Michael! Very good advice. On the cork roadbed, where did you source yours? Sound isn't an issue, but cheaper is always better. I found the foam from WS runs ~$30 for 72'.

At Caboose it's dirt cheap. I paid $1.59/each per 3 ft. piece. But cheaper if you buy it in bulk.

http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=25238

Also it's easier to lay down on curves, the foam roadbed you have to cut notches in it to get smooth curves.

 

[ianacole]

That turns out to be just over $38 for 72', ~30% more than foam, but if I can save time because I don't have to notch it it may be the better value. I thought I read somewhere you needed to soak cork for curves ... true?

 

[Motley]

That turns out to be just over $38 for 72', ~30% more than foam, but if I can save time because I don't have to notch it it may be the better value. I thought I read somewhere you needed to soak cork for curves ... true?

If you buy the cork by the box it's cheaper though. http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=25240

No need for soaking or anything. I think it looks better too when you ballast because of it's shape. You split the peices apart and turn them around before gluing.

 

[kenw]

.... I thought I read somewhere you needed to soak cork for curves ... true?

Soaking is only needed if the cork is a bit old and dried, I've only seen the problem in stuff that sat for years in the local hobby shop. If they sell enough of it, it tends to stay fresh and flexible. I put down over 125' on my layout and didn't need to soak any of it.

After 20 years however, the unused pieces on the shelf are really brittle.

 

[UP2CSX]

The key with cork is don't buy it unless you can see it in person or have a money back guarantee. Most of the big on-line train shops move lots of cork so it's usually fresh and flexible but there's always a ringer that's sat around a hot warehouse for four or five years. I've used both cork and the WS roadbed and like the WS roadbed better. It's easier to work with and I like the profile better. Cork is higher with steeper shoulders, which is fine for class one mainlines, but too high for other kinds of track. Just MHO though.