Layout Skirting


Doors, wood panels, etc. Naaaa, don't think so.

I agree with that.

I actually have a lot of my 'stuff' in plastic trays that stack up, and can slide out on the plywood floor. Here you can see some of those red trays stacked up 5 high. I also have a number of other things to be stored under my staging track decks. The staging tracks will also be hidden by the skirting. (Hopefully that will also keep some of the staging track areas cleaner as well)
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Another stowage consideration,..
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Those are early planning photos.
 
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Curtains allow easy access to the under layout area for storage. Screwed in solid panels of any material would be much less accessible. If I want to get a kit, tool or material out for a project, it takes 10 sec to lift up the curtain and grab the container with the part. If it's in the next bay over, no problem.

I agree Dave. I am also thinking I want to make multiple short sections of fabric rater then one or two long ones, just so you can more easily lift them up to gain access.
 
I thought the landscape cloth I tried 1st was to much work. Cutting it down to size, hemming it, adding Velcro and then IMO it looked too cheap as I purchased very cheap landscape cloth. It looked like landscape cloth.

This lead me to stage skirting. Ready to hang it went up very easily.

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Storage Under Staging Tracks
3 Plastic Milk Type Cartons
Here I must correct myself, I have found a difference in the height of a number of these type cartons. for instance ...
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and it turns out the 3 'milk cartons' are just a little too high. I am sure there are some that would work, but I'd rather be sure and utilize those 3 'file storage containers' pictured in the middel of that photo.
Even better would be the use of those red coke-cola type containers which I already have a lot of my RR stuff stored in. I can fit a 7 high stack of those under the staging deck with room to spare. They also fit between the wall studding of 24 inches much better.

Here is a mock up of a staging board over those stroage bins,.. (and that board is just resting on the top of the file storage bins at probably 1/2 inch lower than I propose for the staging level board.
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staging track plywood decks

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I thought the landscape cloth I tried 1st was to much work. Cutting it down to size, hemming it, adding Velcro and then IMO it looked too cheap as I purchased very cheap landscape cloth. It looked like landscape cloth.

This lead me to stage skirting. Ready to hang it went up very easily.

What is stage skirting,..please elaborate?

Details on how you hung it?
 
What about looking at the fabric sections at Wal-Mart, Jo-Ann's or other stores like that? I have given thought to getting a complete bolt to do black skirting. Attach with trim at the top to legs of layout.
 
What is stage skirting,..please elaborate?

Details on how you hung it?
Brian, Stage skirting is exactly that. A skirt (fabric) that is hung to hide the underneath part of a stage (in my case, the layout)

It came with 3/4” Velcro sown onto the fabric and I added a 3/4” Velcro receiver under the fascia on my layout.

Thank you D & J Railroad (Ken) The finished look was what I was looking for. My wife said the pleats looked better then the straight that was also, so I followed her suggestion.

Please understand! I am not knocking landscaping fabric. MINE didn’t look good IMO and it may have been a fire hazard. Plus, neither my wife or I were decent with needle and thread to hem the landscape cloth. So I searched online for stage skirting and found what I posted. There are many companies and choices

3 rolls 39” wide x 32’ long is what I purchased. About $1.60 per foot before Covid. It is fire resistant to meet my insurance company’s demand

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My wife said the pleats looked better then the straight that was also, so I followed her suggestion.
Your wife is right. My children's Youth In Model Railroading modules ended up with both pleated and non-pleated skirts. Hands down the pleats help. They look much better, plus they hang better. and the extra fabric makes it much easier to access things under the layout without having to rip the skirt off the velcro. Win Win Win for the pleats.
 
On my old layout, I used regular cotton fabric from Wal-mart. The width was perfect and I put the "finished" side down, no cutting, did not unfurl at all either over 3 year period of time...
Logandsawman kind of nailed it here for basic fabrics. Put your finished (hemmed) end on the bottom and staple or attach in your preferred method the rough end up high. This will help prevent it from fraying. OR, simply hem the rough end and that will help, too.

As for the tarp, you can certainly try it. Not sure you would be happy with the results... well... I wouldn't be happy wit the results. But then again, its not my layout, is it? :) That tarp is very plasticky, crinkly, and the sound of it being hit with your feet will drown out most sound decoders if its in a echoey space. Could it work? Sure. Is it what you really want to do? That's up to you.
I'm going with the non-skirted look for my layout. A.) Easier, B.) Cheaper, C.) I don't run ops sessions and have no local friends who work (play) with model trains - and my layout is in the basement where most guests don't go - so the dressing up of the layout is not that high a priority for me.
 
Harbor Freight Tarps

I've been fooling around with some ideas on skirting my new layout in the shed. My initial ideas were to use some light weight shower curtain materials or black-out fabrics laid on their sides which would provide something like 34-37" heights. Then add grommets to those edges to slide along some sort of rod mounted under the edge of the deck.

I became concerned with the unraveling edges of any 'cut' fabrics, especially the landscape material and some others. And of course a number of folks have described efforts to curtail this unraveling with various flammable methods.

My latest thoughts are what about those harbor freight tarps? ...they can be pretty cheap..
1) I believe they have several difference fabric weights, and we would only need the very lightest?
2) Their fabric appears to have a reinforcing element in it that keeps it from unraveling when cut,...or slit??
3) I think their fabric could be stapled successfully? (I was intrigued with the simple idea of just stapling this dropcloth under the front of the deck, rather than more elaborate methods)

Has anyone tried using this material??
Stapling seems like a good way to go. Cheap. I would NOT use velcro, except in a few spots which might need to be opened up for access and then closed again. Velcro is quite expensive per/foot. If you do, you'll only need a short section to fit over a long "receiver" on the other side of the gap (to make it match the rest of the pleats when closed up). You'll be able to flip the sections over too, thus saving money:

Long section of velcro on the benchwork, short section on the backside of the skirt in one place, long section of the velcro on the backside of the skirt, short section of the velcro attached to the benchwork. It won't be necessary either to even stitch around the velcro attatched to the backsides of the skirt, even if the glue you use seeps through the material. The upper skirt (see below) set closer to the front will cover those rough areas further back on the second skirt from the normal viewing height/position.

FWIW, it's also possible, at perhaps just twice the cost per/foot to skirt a layout section or even a module using the double skirt method: A short height skirt just below the fascia, and then a full height second skirt set a bit further back. The advantage of this method is that the second skirt can be fastened--stapled perhaps--in such a way as to leave the bottom edge set consistently just above the floor level, regardless of any discrepancies in stapling height, or a fascia distance (from the bottom edge) up above and closer to the front--the shorter height skirting in front can easily cover any ills, and it will be very difficult to parse out the location of any combined errors.
As to the question of whether or not to pleat the skirt, IMO things will definitely look better pleated than not. Spend the extra money to get that "professional/museum quality" look. Stretching the skirt flat will look like you tried to do just that: Stretch the skirt(s) to save the extra dollars. If you do that you might as well use black plastic instead of fabric.
So don't. Go with fabric and pleats.
 
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What is stage skirting,..please elaborate?

Details on how you hung it?
Other types of stage skirting:

Picture a theater stage. Pleated curtains at either end which pull out to the middle to close out a show or musical number. When they are pulled back to the sides the star or stars are revealed, to do their thing. Hence the term stage.

It's worth noting that the whole thing is often framed by a short, full length skirt along the top, covering the two moving main curtains, and reaching all the way up under the top edge. So the "picture" is thus framed with a steady, unmoving top edge (the bottom hem of that full length skirt, the two side skirts set a short distance behind--those move side to side as needed, with the bottom edge/hem set right down to the surface of the stage. This hem usually hangs just above the surface of the stage itself, so that when the side curtains slide each way, they don't "drag" much or at all as they move.

That last bit is the norm, but it's not unheard of for the bottom edge to deliberately puddle and drag either. Think of the way a wedding dress often has a train, while a regular full-length dress might have hem that ends just above ground level. Scarlet O'Hara, in the latter case vs. a bride...or Marilyn Monroe in a full length sheath dress which pools out behind her. Or Carolyn Jones as Morticia Addams....

In any case, it's all BELOW the bottom edge of the fascia where stage skirting is concerned, so the idea is not to draw the eye to it, but use it to "frame" everything up above. Fascia on up to the layout.

In somewhat the same way, lights--tubes, LED strips, spotlights, track lights....whatever...are often covered over too by an upper fascia (usually some sort of hard or solid material. Much simpler up there, as you don't need to crawl under the curtain to get access to storage behind. There ain't any. :D

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Followup thought: Ken/D&J made mention of setback to whatever covering you use below, and it applies whether you use a hardboard as he does or a curtain. If you picture a typical kitchen cabinet, they will always have "toe kick" setback along the bottom edge, so you can stand right up close. directly in front of, and facing the cabinet/countertop without leaning forward because the toes of your shoes push you backward at the bottom. Ken's solution is to set the entire lower fascia back and away from the upper fascia, and it's a good solution. With curtains, you can do much the same--just set it back in the same way. If you DON'T, then you might find yourself standing on the bottom hem, which will either pull the whole curtain back when you drag the bottom of your shoe back, or stretch it out if you stretch it vertically, and downward, thus tearing it off your staples or slide rod. If you don't set it back it won't last more'n half an hour before you've torn it all loose....

So if you use the curtain method, set the whole bottom curtain back a few inches too, to avoid that problem. You can still fix it in such a way that the bottom hem meets the floor very consistently, giving it that professional finish look. In either case, set the bottom edge of the curtain or the hardboard lower fascia back from the upper fascia. Give it a toe-kick.
 
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Logandsawman kind of nailed it here for basic fabrics. Put your finished (hemmed) end on the bottom and staple or attach in your preferred method the rough end up high. This will help prevent it from fraying. OR, simply hem the rough end and that will help, too.

As for the tarp, you can certainly try it. Not sure you would be happy with the results... well... I wouldn't be happy wit the results. But then again, its not my layout, is it? :) That tarp is very plasticky, crinkly, and the sound of it being hit with your feet will drown out most sound decoders if its in a echoey space. Could it work? Sure. Is it what you really want to do? That's up to you.
I'm going with the non-skirted look for my layout. A.) Easier, B.) Cheaper, C.) I don't run ops sessions and have no local friends who work (play) with model trains - and my layout is in the basement where most guests don't go - so the dressing up of the layout is not that high a priority for me.
Agreed. A flat tarp will look pretty much like a flat sheet of plastic--cheap. That said, and if you don't want to spend much on it, you can at least pleat black plastic by stapling it to a horizontal piece of lumber. A 1" x 2" would do fine.

lf I went that way, I would do my level best to find a flat or matte finish plastic, rather than a shiny finish. Good luck with that. I imagine you would probably find fabric--even garden/weed barrier fabric--to be cheaper anyway, and even if you could find a flat or matte finish plastic.

You won't be able to pleat a tarp anywhere near as easily, and it will be a lot heavier. Needlessly so IMO, and you will need a 1" x 3" or 1" x 4" so as to keep it from sagging too much due to the extra weight per foot.
 
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Just in general, and it probably applies to most things in MRR: John Nehrich, the lead guy at the now defunct RPI NEB&W, as seen in "Great Model Railroads V1" made this point in that first video in Allen Keller's layout series: "You finally get up the courage to do it (in this case, trying to model a specific prototype building), and sixth months later you come back and you can't remember you even compromised, let alone what it was." The same idea applies to a LOT of things in this hobby, and to life in general too. Decide. Do it. I'm not as good as he is, but I still think it pays, and time does heal all wounds--and compromises.

SantaFeWillie is one such guy to follow here. He keeps pushing the bow wave forward, IMO and even though I don't do it much myself. Build. Keep building. Move the goalposts forward, and forward again. Momentum.

Staple the skirts or not and then move on.

FWIW, you guys impress me. I have realized in my short time here that I collect a lot of...ideas and methods...about how to get things done. I guess that makes me an odd sort of collector. I'm in a small niche of that larger (but still not large) niche of "armchair modelers," while a lot of you guys actually get things done. More power to you.
 
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When using fabric for the skirting, is there a difference in material to use, as far as attracting dust, or is that a no concern?
Likewise a plastic tarp, any concerns with static electricity?
 
I had not considered either of these. I can see where the first might attact, or even repel dust. As far as static electricity, I can't see as much worse or even equal to what you might experience brushing your way off any carpet. It if IS building up, I suspect you will or would feel it ahead of time.
 
i used plain simple display table skirting, bottom edge and sides came pre hemmed .. sections were five feet long ... worked well, stapled underneath at the top, draped well and easy to move when i needed something underneath .. not to mention really cheap, 1 think they were on sale at walmart for less than two bucks a section ..
 
When using fabric for the skirting, is there a difference in material to use, as far as attracting dust, or is that a no concern?
Likewise a plastic tarp, any concerns with static electricity?
Yes, and Not really.
I have skirts made from different material. Plain cotton material like a bed sheet is too light in my opinion. I also have a set made from material that is a bit too heavy, even pleated it hangs umm umm stiffly(?). I think it has some polyester in it, almost like an old fashion leisure suit. Unfortunately, I don't know how fabric thickness is rated, so cannot give that which I consider to be the "just right" weight.

I threw up an "emergency" plastic tarp on the modules at a train show for one event. There was static electricity where it would jump over and rub one's leg; however, I didn't consider it an issue as related to affecting the electronics in the trains.
 
i used plain simple display table skirting, bottom edge and sides came pre hemmed .. sections were five feet long ... worked well, stapled underneath at the top, draped well and easy to move when i needed something underneath .. not to mention really cheap, 1 think they were on sale at walmart for less than two bucks a section ..
That's what I'm using. Mine are 17' long with pleats and since my layout is 170' long, I ordered 10. Being from Canada, I did lots of searching and found a place in Florida and with the rate exchange and shipping, it was the cheapest I found. It came to about .88 cents a foot US.

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