Layout (Grain Project)


N

NSlover92

Member
Here you guys go As you can see I dont have the one grain bin painted, and the corn crib is to dark I am going to repaint it, also I need to run the piping from the Leg to the bins. But this will give you a bit up progress.
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I also started my creek project. I have one side braced the other will get cut off tomarrow and braced. It is about 10 scale feet wide.
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Mike
 
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Mike, nice little complex you have there. Most grain elevators get modeled in isolation without the Butler buildings and additional storage you have.

Looks like a nice place for a creek. Just make sure you seal it up good because what ever you use for water will find the tiniest hole you have and leak out all over the floor. :eek: It may be an optical illusion of the camera but it looks like you've got a pretty bad kink where the two pieces of flex track join on the outer loop.
 
Ha Yeah, that kink is just the extra solder on the outside of the rails it is going to be ground off, if was when I was learning how to use this new gun i had gotten. Yeah, living on a farm I have made many trips in my 16 years of life to the grain elevator. The bins and the mess of pipes and tubes is a must for a decent elevator. Mike
 
Well I finished the other side of my creek and it is braced up, I am planning on going in to lowes and picking up some window screen to put in it and start plastering.
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Here are just a few of my PCM SD7 spoting a hopper at the not finished grain elevator.
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Here is the inside of the dump bay of the elevator.
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While being a very nice kit from Walthers the only problem was the roof wanted to slide down, So I glued in a couple pieces of strip in the corners easy, quick fix.
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Mike
 
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Mike, if you'll take some advice from an old river maker, get some mattboard or 1/8" plywood and secure it to the bottom of the layout where the creek will run. Use silicone sealer on both the outside and inside joints. Lay in the screen wire and plaster. You will have some small holes as the plaster dries so do at least two coats.

Use thin sheet styrene for the ends but spray the water side with Pam first. Seal it with silicone as well. If things work out right, you shouldn't have any leaks but the barrier under the creek will prevent the goop from dripping on the floor. Make the first pour very thin and observe carefully for leaks. You should see more bubbles any place that's leaking. Use some gap filling super glue on any place that shows signs of a leak after the water material dries completely - that should seal it. Now you can make a second pour and bring it up to half the depth you want. I'm assuming you've already painted the center of the creek bed a dark color, going out to lighter colors near the edge. The creek should now look like a creek.

Add any boulders, logs, and gravel banks and make your final pour. Let everything set up for at least a day. Once you're sure that the water is good and solid, use a sharp #11 xacto blade in your knife and cut away the silicone on the end pieces. The water should not have stuck to the side sprayed with Pam and should peel cleanly away, leaving you with a nice edge.

Good luck and I'll look forward to seeing the end product.
 
Thanks, alot Jim, I was planning on putting some 1/8 masonite down, but I didn't think about doing the pour in sessions. I know I need to paint it but I don't really know what colors will work, I am modeling one that is no more then 5 ft deep. A deep blue, a light green, and a sand? Thanks Mike
 
Mike, those colors will work well if you're modeling a clear running stream. If it's a more typical muddy Eastern stream, I'd go with a thin line of black in the middle and then a darker, mud color up to almost the edge of the water, with a little light green right at the edge. Doing multiple pours gives you a better final surface and allows you to correct any glaring errors without ripping out all your work.
 
Looks good to me. I want to model an elevator some day.
The truck drivers are going to be cussing you for putting the corn crib so close.;)
 
Ha, yeah nothing is in a permanent place I am thinking of bumping the crib back a little, but most 60's farmer didnt have the 60' aluminum drop bottoms we have today, I think the old International straight trucks will make it if I bump it back 3 scale feet. ;) There will be a John Deere dealership in the front of it, even though I bleed Agco, you can't get good Oliver, AC, and Minnie models, if I had to money I would start a business that makes quality machinery models. I will try those colors Jim, Thanks everyone. Mike
 
Hey guys, I added more to my creek, I shaped the screen as seen, I also started hanging my hardboard.
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Tomorrow I get to start putting this on there,
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Mike
 
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NSlover92 said:
Ha, yeah nothing is in a permanent place I am thinking of bumping the crib back a little, but most 60's farmer didnt have the 60' aluminum drop bottoms we have today, I think the old International straight trucks will make it if I bump it back 3 scale feet. ;) There will be a John Deere dealership in the front of it, even though I bleed Agco, you can't get good Oliver, AC, and Minnie models, if I had to money I would start a business that makes quality machinery models. I will try those colors Jim, Thanks everyone. Mike
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True an old bob tail could do a U turn in there.

It's a shame about the Junk Deere too. I sell Case IH parts for a liveing and grew up driving Case and Stieger.
 
PartsMan said:
True an old bob tail could do a U turn in there.

It's a shame about the Junk Deere too. I sell Case IH parts for a liveing and grew up driving Case and Stieger.
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Well, We farm with Farmalls along with our Olivers, AC and Minnie's. So I like my red too! Agco and Red, no Case though I don't like them to much besides on model Comfort-King or something like that. Mike
 
Well I got my creek all plastered up! Next step is painting it. Here is the plaster job.
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For those of you who were curious about what the underside looked like...
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Mike
 
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Mike, I'm feeling nervous about what I see from the underside. Tape up the ends with duct tape and pour some water in there before you paint. I may be wrong but I think I spot a few potential leaks.
 
Looking good Mike. As Jim pointed out make sure you are absolutely leak proof before you pour.
I noticed in your third pic there is a joint in the flex track. If you take a couple ties, shave off the spike detail and sand the bottoms they will slide right in under the joiners and look better when you ballast.
 
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