Kriegsloks building shops
- Thread starter KriegslokBR52
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KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
It's not that bad. What you are doing with electronics on your page, i'd be completely lost. Me and electricity don't get along.
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
A little more on the 0 gauge stuff. A while ago i purchased some old Lionel wheels from a steam locomotive, with the idea of machining them into tires for wheels. They turned out to be cast iron i think, because they are easy to machine.
The idea is to grab the old Rivarossi plastic wheels, shave off the outside flanges and press them into the iron flanges.
The size is almost perfect. Now the hard part is to machine all 8 flanges exactly the same...tbc
The idea is to grab the old Rivarossi plastic wheels, shave off the outside flanges and press them into the iron flanges.
The size is almost perfect. Now the hard part is to machine all 8 flanges exactly the same...tbc
Marlin338MX
Well-Known Member
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
All the critical measurements are done. And a good comparison of the profile of original Lionel wheel and new tire:
The so called "pizza cutter" flange is gone on machined tire. Here i decided to do everything in milimeters, just easier to work with.
The so called "pizza cutter" flange is gone on machined tire. Here i decided to do everything in milimeters, just easier to work with.
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
How did you manage that? One centimeter=10 milimeters.
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
4 tires machined, and i would not be me if i didn't screw something up. One came thinner than i wanted to, but i can work with it.
One Lionel wheel is with a rubber traction tire, didn't notice that when i was picking the wheels. So next train show I'll have to get some more wheels.
One Lionel wheel is with a rubber traction tire, didn't notice that when i was picking the wheels. So next train show I'll have to get some more wheels.
Kusojiji
RANK AMATEURS OF THE MODEL RAILROAD FORM MEMBER
Simple enough, but I still do it
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
Eight tires are done, but i might do another pair and pick eight best ones from the bunch.
Do to thinness of the tires and chuck jaws sticking out to the point of not being able to shave proper amount of metal, i came up with a simple tool to slide on the chuck to be able to machine the tires:
Simple aluminum spacer:
The spacer has definitely helped with the process, without risking of hitting the spinning jaws with a knife...tbc
Do to thinness of the tires and chuck jaws sticking out to the point of not being able to shave proper amount of metal, i came up with a simple tool to slide on the chuck to be able to machine the tires:
Simple aluminum spacer:
The spacer has definitely helped with the process, without risking of hitting the spinning jaws with a knife...tbc
Last edited:
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
Not much modeling going on lately, do to car maintenance, family outings with my dad and trips on weekends. But today i finally sat down to try to finish the Pennsylvania I-1 decapod. I finished adding some details to the back of the main frame under cab and also added the brake hose and uncoupling rod up on the pilot. Everything is now taken apart, washed in gasoline, soapy water after that and drying currently:
I have also painted the flywheel on the motor black, since this is partially visible when the locomotive is back together:
I'll wait a few hours for everything to dry and spray it with a primer and satin black. The wheels and rods were only washed in gasoline for obvious reasons.
I have also painted the flywheel on the motor black, since this is partially visible when the locomotive is back together:
I'll wait a few hours for everything to dry and spray it with a primer and satin black. The wheels and rods were only washed in gasoline for obvious reasons.
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
Some professional modelers use sanding booth to roughen up the surface a bit. I'm not that advanced. If i have a large surface which i can use a vey fine grit sandpaper on, then i do that. I make sure everything is as clean and oil free as possible. Last i use automotive spray (both primer and paint if i can match the color) for my metal models, it seems to hold on better than model paint.
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
Pennsylvania Railroad I-1 decapod is painted and put together for now. In the future I'll probably spray a delicate coat of Brunswick Green on the boiler, cab and tender sides and i guess a tarnished black on the smokebox just like i did Lehigh and New England F-1 earlier. Dry testing literally (almost no lubrication) came out satisfactory.
And two of the largest 2-10-0s in the land (only missing Western Maryland I-2):
And two of the largest 2-10-0s in the land (only missing Western Maryland I-2):
Marlin338MX
Well-Known Member
Fantastic work!
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
First pair of 0 gauge driving wheels is done, but I'll have to shave off the inside of the plastic inserts a little since they are too wide. Right now the glue between the plastic wheels and the flanges is curing;
Made another special tool to hold the plastic inserts for shaving off material:
And almost finished product;
Made another special tool to hold the plastic inserts for shaving off material:
And almost finished product;
KriegslokBR52
Well-Known Member
All 8 wheels have steel flanges now:
I have also figured out what size axles i will use. This gear box purchased few years ago for such a project solved the issue:
3/16 axle size.
I have also figured out what size axles i will use. This gear box purchased few years ago for such a project solved the issue:
3/16 axle size.
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