KATO HO C44-9W DETAIL

[Kusojiji]

I bought this a long time ago and not too long ago, discovered that I had not installed anything on it. In fact, it still had the horn hook couplers.

So, decided to get it all together. Things to do:
1. grab irons
2. kadee couplers
3. tap the coupler holes for a screw instead of using that pin that is difficult to remove most of the time.
4. detail the cab
5. maybe put a driver dude in
6. add separate ditch light
7. dcc?

Started on the grab irons. Definitely had to chase the holes with a .5mm drill bit as these things would not go in. Still had problems even after drilling the holes, so had squish the rail end as some got flattened by the cutter.

After about 15 mikes, got my first hand rail in. I'll take good eye sight and manual dexterity over experience any day of the week!

In order to make this easier to handle, I ended taking the shell apart, especially to drill out the rails in the back of the cab.

When I ran into a loose fitting rail, I put a blob of white glue on the inside.

Finished up the tiny handrails, so am quitting for today. It's time to run some trains.

 

[migalyto]

Looks like fiddly work!

I was going to pick a couple of these up a few years ago when I switched from N to HO. Shortly after ScaleTrains came out with theirs and
I ended up buying all 6 of mine from them.

It will look great when done, and its a Kato, so it will run like a dream!

 

[Kusojiji]

Yep, was running that motor chassis around just now. It runs nicely.

 

[Kusojiji]

Got it finished finally. I saw the issue with the front deck rails.

Square pegs, round holes.

Rear deck had square holes.

I used some needle nose pliers and gently squished the square pegs. They fit nice and snug into the round holes.

While everything was apart, I insulated the ditch light runners with a single layer of tape for later on, if I go DCC.

Also tapped the coupler holes and installed the Kadees. Had to use the old box with the ears cut off as the nice square box wouldn't fit.

 

[Kusojiji]

Forgot to add that put a driver in. Dark gray uniform. I painted the seat and the control stand black.

 

[rgeiter]

On my two CSX dash 9’s, I used small light bulbs for the ditch lights. After a few hours running, I noticed that the incandescent bulbs melted the plastic around them. Oops. I was young then, the white LED weren’t around yet, and I hated and still hate the yellow LED Kato used for headlights.

 

[santafewillie]

It doesn't matter now, but are you sure that you didn't have the two handrails reversed to begin with???

 

[Kusojiji]

I did wonder about that but it wouldn't fit at all reversed. Both sets had the square pegs on the outer rails, but the spacing was different.

 

[Kusojiji]

Ditch lights and DCC installed. Separated the ditch light runner with black tape and left a little bit at the end to act as a gasket.

Used the printed up isolator that I had created a while ago.

Decoder is a Digitrax DH165IP.

Tested good.

Added a little bit more tape to hold the runners in place.

Got it all together and tested. Looks like a little bit of the headlights bleeding into the ditch runner. Will investigate.

 

[Kusojiji]

Added more isolation to the headlight runners.

Blue tac to the sides of the ditch light runners since the headlamp LED is flooding the area and then covered it all up.

Tested much gooderer.

Now I need to go dig my SF C44-9W and make these tweaks since the bleed is quite apparent.

 

[Kusojiji]

Well, I just discovered that the head and tail lights do not work in DC mode with a decoder in it. I'm going to have to go back in and figure it out. I'm not sure if my SF C44-9W has the same issue or not. The Digitrax decoder is set to permit DC mode and I searched for anything else DC related, but there is nothing else. The beastie runs fwd and rev, but just no lights.

 

[bnsf971]

Well, I just discovered that the head and tail lights do not work in DC mode with a decoder in it. I'm going to have to go back in and figure it out. I'm not sure if my SF C44-9W has the same issue or not. The Digitrax decoder is set to permit DC mode and I searched for anything else DC related, but there is nothing else. The beastie runs fwd and rev, but just no lights.

Some decoders will only offer motor control in DC, since that's usually just an emergency backup method of power. Most of those that use DCC turn off analog completely, to prevent unwanted runaways when using DCC.

 

[Kusojiji]

I took the lightboard out and tested it with my meter. The LEDs work fine and I should have surmised that it had the diodes in place to work in pure DC mode (jumpers in, no decoder). So, searching the interweb, I ran across someone saying to turn the lights on before turning the DCC system off. Seemed far fetched, but after making sure that analog conversion was on, by reading the decoder setting back, I turned the lights on, shut down the DCC system and fired the loco up on DC. And voila! It works. I never had to do this on any of my other DH165IP decoders. So I made sure that the ditch lights were also on.

 

[Espeefan]

Nothing is more fun than drilling #80 holes for grab irons and railings. Guess how I know! You're in the exact same situation I am with my gaggle of Stewart F's. If you're feeling adventurous you can modify or eliminate those light pipes and adding individual LED's for each bulb. Athearn makes some nice LEDs the same size as the little 1.5 volt micro bulbs that will fit in those light fixtures. You can even do the ditch lights with small LED's so they can alternate for crossings. I've been down the lighting rabbit hole. I have a Walthers SD-7 that needs it's entire lighting package done over because they used a crappy light pipe design where only the upper light of each dual sealed beam set lights up. Criminal when you consider what they charged for that thing!

 

[beiland]

I wonder what i can learn on this subject thread,...with repect to my recent 'refurbish job' on my Kato AC4400?

Kato AC4400, refurbish job

At the most recent train show in Deland, FL I ran across a fellow selling a down & out Kato engine boxed up as parts in an old Athearn box. He said he was just not interested in rebuilding an engine. I looked at it, and it appeared to have a lot of the required parts, .....just all separated...

forum.mrhmag.com

 

[bnsf971]

Before you get carried away about those alternating ditch lights, SP did not use them. The ditch lights do not flash.

 

[Kusojiji]

I pulled my SF one out and it also does not have the headlamps on in DC mode. I guess never ran it that way. Since I have it out, I'll start cleaning up the light bleed. I may also change the ditch light color to match the headlamp. I think I have yellow 1206 LEDs.

 

[Kusojiji]

Decided to go with the yellow, matching ditch lights.

 

[Kusojiji]

I wonder what i can learn on this subject thread,...with repect to my recent 'refurbish job' on my Kato AC4400?

Kato AC4400, refurbish job

At the most recent train show in Deland, FL I ran across a fellow selling a down & out Kato engine boxed up as parts in an old Athearn box. He said he was just not interested in rebuilding an engine. I looked at it, and it appeared to have a lot of the required parts, .....just all separated...

forum.mrhmag.com

That is a very strange decoder. You know what the make and model is?

 

[Espeefan]

Before you get carried away about those alternating ditch lights, SP did not use them. The ditch lights do not flash.

Oops, My Bad! Ditch lights didn't exist until several decades after my era. Still, the alternating part is just decoder wiring and function programming after you install your bulb in each one.