Kadee installation


F

Fazby

Member
Hi all, this is my first post here. I am building a relatively small layout - an 4x8 design from an old Kalmbach book, stretched to 4x10. Lone wolf layout - just me 'playing' with it.

Newbie question: How best to install Kadee between the track magnets? Using Atlas sectional track, it appears that ties have to be removed completely for a space. (Not simply dropped in as implied in the instructions.) Yes, I do want the stand-in-one-place operations, so Kadee seems the way to go.

White glue seems like a pain. I am thinking of using some epoxy glue for the gap filling and for a sure grip on the magnet.

I have the glueing jig.

Anyone have suggestions or a link to best practices for installing these things?

Thank you!
 
Assuming that you are using a #312 uncoupling magnet, you do have to remove the ties between the rails. What type of roadbed are you using? If it's cork, white glue will work fine and be suprisingly strong. If it's something like the Woodloand Scenics black roadbed, white or carpenter's glue works well. If it's directly on foam, white or carpenter's glue are your only choice as just about any other glue eats up the foam. If it's laid on plywood, carpenter's glue is your best choice. A secondary alternative in all cases is latex caulk. It's really overkill to use two-part epoxy and it will damage many surfaces. I've glued down many of these with white glue and they work fine.
 
Thanks you!

I tried to test one out and set the sectional track on plastic. The next morning, the white glue hadn't dried. Thus the thought of epoxy. I figured that a little dab would do it, and it would set quickly.

My roadbed is the Woodland Scenics black road.
 
I've used Elmer's Carpenter's Glue on the WS roadbed and it set up in about an hour. You can also try the latex caulk, which will dry in about two hours. Epoxy will do a good job of eating a nice hole right through your WS road bed and probably down to the foam underneath. It's one way to make a pit for the magnet though. :)
 
I will try the white glue again - maybe it was the plastic base that held up the drying. The caulk sounds good, too.

Thank you!
 
I have the black roadbed and after my track was layed I spread the gravel and weted it down with the white glue mixture and it holds very good. if you remove the tiesjust put a thin layer of glue as it needs air for it to dry the more glue the longer it will take. let the rubber do some of the holding as well push down on it hard and see if it sticks better.

welcome to the board I just found this place and love it!
 
Fazby, white glue when that thick does take a good while to dry totally (days). I used some of those magnets and really became impatient waiting for them to dry. I finally switched to carpenter's glue.
FYI: Kadee told me that the magnets were originally designed for code 100 track, thus the reason you have to remove the ties on code 83 for proper height.

I later changed to the under-the-track type, but even with them, you have to chisel out a little of the sub-roadbed to get it under the track. It is a little thicker than foam roadbed.:)
 
Yes, but it's yellow. :) In the US, it's sold as Elmer's Carpenter's Glue. I'm sure there's something similar in Malta.
 
Yeah Max, what we are calling white glue is just a general purpose thick type glue where the yellow carpenter's glue is a much stronger bonding glue commonly used in cabinet/carpentry work. Although we don't need that kind of strength here, the yellow glue dries much faster.

EDIT: I was just thinking, I would bet that Walthers "Goo" would work pretty good. The key would be getting it where you would have a good bed for the magnet. Just thunking again:eek: :D .
 
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Thanks all!

The white glue is a knock-off of Elmer's Glueall. I have let it sit for two days now and I'll see how it is going tonight when I get home. If still not dry, I will try the carpenter glue. I have some Tightbond II.

If that doesn't work, caulk is next, followed by epoxy. (Getting impatient...)

I am trying to get one in place to make sure the gluing jig is working properly. If all goes well, the rest will get put in.

The next chore is to adjust all the couplers to the proper height. It looks so simple in the books and instructions. Sux being a newbie. :D
 
We have many types of glue, the most commonly used by carpenters here is the white glue, creamy consistancy. The yellow glue is more, so to say, gummy it bonds better and stronger, dries up quicker, but its more messy and its thinner based ( at least the one we got here ).

To cure the white glue faster, apply hear, even from a hair dryer, I remember in our factory, when we used to glue chair wood, we used to put the glued ( flat) surfaces under heated presses, and the glue cured in 1/5 of the time.

I like to use white glue mostly because its waterbased.

I also like to mix white glue with plaster, for scenery, it hardens more.
 
I have tried both white (off brand Elmer's) and yellow (Titebond II). I like the yellow better - it sets faster.

The track is code 100 Atlas sectional and one needs to remove the ties. That was a disappointment as the instructions sounded like it was a simple drop-in procedure.

Kadee uncoupling and delayed uncoupling is working smoothly. Any flaws are due to my poor installation in some older rolling stock. Still cutting my teeth there.

Still a lot to learn, but I finally got to play, sorry - work, with the Inglenook for the first time last night. Woo hoo!

Incidentally, I bought one Atlas kaolin tank car and it has shown me that my layout is not dead level. Turns out I am about a 1/4 bubble out of level, which will be remedied soon. The dang thing rolls back to the nearest obstacle such as a turn out (keeps on going for quite some ways on the mainline...) Every day is a learning experience.

Thank you for all the help.
 
If you can get E6000 adhesive in your area that is the best. It dries quick, does not melt plastic or cork & is clear. I've been using it on my layout for quite a few years. Walmart sells it in the Crafts dept. for $2.56 a tube. Home Depot & Lowes gets over $4 a tube. I use it to attach kadee coupler pockets, glue hard to get at items on buildings & rolling stock, etc.
I also run a 3 by 5 ft. flag on the back corner of my pickup mounted on a piece of conduit that is glued w/E6000 on the edge.
I have between the rails magnets mounted on my code 100 & I didn't remove the ties. The magnet is level w/the top of the rail. If your couplers are set at the right heighth they won't hit the magnets.

Larry
 
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Quote:

"I have between the rails magnets mounted on my code 100 & I didn't remove the ties. The magnet is level w/the top of the rail. If your couplers are set at the right heighth they won't hit the magnets.

Larry"

Ditto for the magnets between the rails on code-100. Coupler suggestion(s): Athearn rolling stock used a snap-on spring to hold the Kadees in place. I found one annoyance, that sometimes a coupler would droop just enough that the curved pin would hit the magnet and pop off the cover and coupler. Drill out the coupler plastic centering hole and screw it in. Also, it helps to bend the bottom of the curved pin below the coupler just a little (where the pin might drop just enough to just snag sliding over the magnet) so the pin slides over the top of the magnet--if the contact point of the uncoupling pin curves up just enough the lip will slide up and over the magnet, instead of the flat end of the pin tagging the contact end of the magnet.
 
Yes, they are suppose to fit code 100. To repeat, that is what Kadee told me when I was surprised they didn't fit my code 83.
 
Fazby said:
How best to install Kadee between the track magnets? ...
Anyone have suggestions or a link to best practices for installing these things?
Click to expand...
All but one of the layouts in the round-robin operating group that I am in have removed the magnets. We use the bamboo skewers. So for us at least the "best practice" would be never to install them in the first place.
 
GandyDancer:
I agree with you. I have several mags installed and they can really be a pain giving false uncouplings to the unsuspecting operator. They are good for the unreachable areas, but I now prefer skewers.
 
My code 100 track leaves the uncoupler proud of the rails. The glueing jig confirms this as it will not meet the rails. Lucky me! I have the only reject track and uncouplers. :) I will, however, state that these uncouplers are 10 plus years old. Perhaps they have been redesigned?

I hear you with the skewers, but I want hands-off running, so I can park it in a chair and run the cars thruough their paces.
 
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