Joints in the Backdrop


Well, that depends on a number of things and circumstances...
- Are the two modules always going to be placed next to each other specifically? If so, I would set them up as they would be in running fashion, install the backdrop as if the modules together are one unit, then cut the backdrop so the sections will come away with their respective modules.
- Will the modules be randomly assigned as next to something different every time? If so, I would say to go with a neutral background, such as a sunny, cloudless sky, and have any features (city scape, mountains, etc.) be confined within each section.

We'd love to have a little more detail on your particular set up.
 
If you have two or more properly square edges abutting each other, simply 'mud', let dry, and sand. Same as for drywall. I don't know if that's what you're asking, but that's what I would do. If you want it to be able to move with temperature and humidity, and I would allow for that, personally, you can use acrylic caulking and spread it to be flush. Prime it, paint it.
 
Yes the modules will always be place next to each other, but I want to be able to pull them apart if I have to work on an individual module.

So I'm not sure how to deal with the "cut". My woodwork skills are not that good that I can have a very fine cut line, but I'm happy to give it ago.

I have seen a plastic joint strip being used, but was not that keen on it, if I made the strip flush with the backdrop, painted it, then cut along the plastic strip with a thin blade, I would have two cut lines but that maybe better than one big cut line.
 
Okay, it's still easy. You put cleats, say of 1X2, about 12" long near the top and the bottom of one of the two panels. Half of the cleat is screwed to one panel's front surface, ideally countersunk, and the other half will cover the same distance and location on the adjoining panel when you get them tight up against each other. You'll drive small screws just deep enough to embed into the front surface of the second panel and snug it up gently, also countersunk. The cleat is rigid and will bring the two panels flush up to each other.

You can paint over the four screws, or cover them with plaster/drywall mud, and paint them when they've been sanded flush. Locate the screw heads later with a magnet, bare them with a knife tip, remove them, separate the modules.
 
ok, so it's almost semi permanent.

How would you do it if you where doing exhibitions and separating the modules frequently?
 
At a exhibition, you line up the benchwork so that the rails meet properly, and then you clamp the very top edges across the gap between them. You can just use a carpentry clamp across the gap, or use the same cleats, one in front, one in back, to sandwich the top edges, and use one or two clamps. The cleats will force the seam together, but only at the top.
 



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