Jerome's Switcher Roster


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Time to dirty it up a little Mr wheeler! LOL. I also have a new unit coming if the guy Emails me back! LOL
 
Jerome its a BM unit which is what I wanted.

Karl I def plan to do DCC and lighting but not so sure about sound.
 
Ah, the BL2s. They're so ugly, they're beautiful! :D

railfan said:
Hey can a GP15-1 pass for a switcher? Maybe a bit big but I searched and see Jerome had at least one. Found a new green and black burlington for not too much $. I can easily imagine it being a switcher on my Gizmo-Pacific. Maybe that's why it's called GP. (general purpose too). :)

Aha! wikipedia says it's a switcher.....yay!

Mike
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It's a "road switcher" which is not specifically a switcher, but a general purpose unit.

CSX switches with AC4400CWs. Those are definitely not switchers! Pan Am Railways switches with whatever they have on hand whether it's a GP40, SD40-2, or Norfolk Southern Dash 9s!

I'm adding a switcher to my roster tomorrow, but it's a "road switcher" so it doesn't count :D
 
diburning said:
It's a "road switcher" which is not specifically a switcher, but a general purpose unit.

CSX switches with AC4400CWs. Those are definitely not switchers! Pan Am Railways switches with whatever they have on hand whether it's a GP40, SD40-2, or Norfolk Southern Dash 9s!

I'm adding a switcher to my roster tomorrow, but it's a "road switcher" so it doesn't count :D
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That's funny! :D and thanks for the info and for answering my post! I already have a kato AC4400CW U.P. but amazingly it's on loan to CSX for...uhm....switching....or road switching I guess. The rules in Model railroading and apparently real life railroading too, allow for flexibility......which personally I like! :p
 
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Jerome you should have told him "A&P Blue", that might keep him out of trouble for a while while he's looking for it!:p
 
Funny Rick, but I'm not falling for it!!:p
Coincedentally, its the same shade of Blue that my Maryland Midland units use, so I gots plenty!!:D
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Karl, how did your Loksound install turn out? I finally got around to doing mine.... It worked OK on DC powered by a battery, but when I put it on a DCC layout.... dead short.

I checked all the wiring and couldn't find anything shorted. Now I have to dig around for the receipt so that I can send it in to ESU for warranty repair/replacement :mad:

I tend to lose my receipts so I might be SOL in this case :mad:
 
diburning said:
Karl, how did your Loksound install turn out? I finally got around to doing mine.... It worked OK on DC powered by a battery, but when I put it on a DCC layout.... dead short.

I checked all the wiring and couldn't find anything shorted. Now I have to dig around for the receipt so that I can send it in to ESU for warranty repair/replacement :mad:

I tend to lose my receipts so I might be SOL in this case :mad:
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Eric
Mine turned out OK, but I'm still tinkering with speaker size, end quieting the Athearn drive..adding NWSL driveshafts to get rid of those annoying Athearn coupled shafts.
The horn & bell are great, but the prime mover tends to get drowned out by the driveline:eek:

Took a break and did a Loksound installation in a Proto PA,,,,WOW:D its LOUD!!! Sounds great too! :D:D:D:D:D

Here it is. for some reason, my camera too some crappy video, didnt look this bad when I edited it, but the sound is whet was important!! The video is slightly better in the 2nd half!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0s0-So8q84
 
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Hello to all our friends!
Again, I'm talking about my SW1500 from Athearn...
What decoder is better to put here?
 
What kind of SW1500 is it? If it's a blue box, I'd go with a small/flat wired decoder.

For the RTR, anything that fits (flat, 8 pin or 9 pin) will work. For example, anything from Digitrax with the suffix IP (integrated plug will work. A board type will work as well.
 
rustam said:
Hello to all our friends!
Again, I'm talking about my SW1500 from Athearn...
What decoder is better to put here?
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The NCE 6 function D13SRJ is a good fit for this model. You are looking at about $20 from NCE.

View attachment 31341

http://www.ncedcc.com/component/vir...rden_flypage.tpl&product_id=43&category_id=13

Here is a picture of the one I installed in mine.

View attachment 31339

Just don't forget a little piece of foam under the decoder to keep it from touching the stock board underneath. Very easy 5 minute install. A little Kapton tape and you are good to go!
 
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Hello! Thank you! I Station Power Cab.

Do not laugh, but I just now found how to open the body of the model ... :) I was searching for videos on YouTube removing the body)))
Very delicate and detailed model!
I think in general that I got a defective ... All on snot! )))

And what is your suggestion different decoders?
 
rustam said:
Hello! Thank you! I Station Power Cab.

Do not laugh, but I just now found how to open the body of the model ... :) I was searching for videos on YouTube removing the body)))
Very delicate and detailed model!
I think in general that I got a defective ... All on snot! )))

And what is your suggestion different decoders?
Click to expand...


ESU makes lokpilot. These are nice German built decoders.

TCS makes good decoders. You can use the TCS T1 or the DP1 in the Athearn RTR. They just plug in. Too easy!

Both ESU and TCS have EMF backfeed, so the decoders are monitoring engine load and automatically adjusting power supply to make your engine run smoothly. This isn't so important with the RTR SW1500 mech as it has a Mashima motor, flywheels, all wheel drive and pick up. So it runs very well anyway. Back EMF really shines with bad mechanisms, as it makes them work much better. You could probably get away with a cheap decoder like the digitrax mentioned earlier if you wanted.

I will be using TCS decoders in mine (until I win the lottery, at which point I'll go for sound). TCS has a 12 month 'goof proof' warranty, no questions asked. So you can get a replacement if one decoder fries. Lokpilot are just as good. Depends which you can find at the best price.

Sound (as in sound decoders) is harder to make a recomendation for. You'll need to think about speakers, baffles, and extra functions for various lights. Someone else could give you better advice if you want sound.
 
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