I have a strange issue with of my locos.


Hi

I am trying run a Proto 2000 HO Scale FA2 loco. I have had this loco for years and had no problem running it on my previous layout. I have recently started a new layout which is code 100 Peco track (flex track). The loco will not stay on the track period. No matter how carefully I lower the loco it derails immediately on contact. I cant get it to run an inch. I am assuming that code 100 track is pretty universal for all manufacturers which all locos could run on or am I mistaken? Could it be the case that I will need to replace the wheels of the loco?
 
Sounds like an issue with the engine itself. Those engines are prone to axle gear cracking, which can spread the gauge of the wheels. That would explain the derailment issue, as the wheels would immediately climb over the rails.
 
Is this one of the units that have a rubber band driven roof vent fan? Perhaps the band driving that fan has hardened or bound up some how.
 
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Walthers also has the replacement axles, if that matters a great deal.
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Thanks for the post. I am not too concerned about brands if the part works well. I am happy to go with which ever does the best job. I guess what I need to do first is find out whether that is the problem. I may need help with that as I am a little green with that kind of job. I appreciate your help.
 
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Thanks for the post. I am not too concerned about brands if the part works well. I am happy to go with which ever does the best job. I guess what I need to do first is find out whether that is the problem. I may need help with that as I am a little green with that kind of job. I appreciate your help.
Without taking it apart, you can check to see if the gears are cracked. While holding the engine upside down, try turning each wheel using the pad of your thumb on the wheel. If the wheel turns relatively easily, the gear on that axle is cracked.
 
Without taking it apart, you can check to see if the gears are cracked. While holding the engine upside down, try turning each wheel using the pad of your thumb on the wheel. If the wheel turns relatively easily, the gear on that axle is cracked.

Thanks for the post. I just had a chance to check the loco as you advised. I found that the front bogie rear wheel turned very easy for about a half turn. Would you say the gear is cracked? If so is it a difficult job replacing the gear?
 
Thanks for the post. I just had a chance to check the loco as you advised. I found that the front bogie rear wheel turned very easy for about a half turn. Would you say the gear is cracked? If so is it a difficult job replacing the gear?
I'd say that gear is cracked. It's pretty easy to replace the gear, and I'd probably replace them all, while you're at it. Just pop off the bottom cover of the truck, the axle assembly should just drop out. Pull the wheel/bearing pieces off the old gear, and slide them onto the new gear. Probably the toughest part is making sure the axles are properly gauged before reinstalling them in the trucks.
 
You said you are using a different kind of track from before.
Is the track in fact HO scale, code 100 or code 83? Anything else, i.e. HOn3 is narrower and you loco won't match up to the guage.
 
I'd say that gear is cracked. It's pretty easy to replace the gear, and I'd probably replace them all, while you're at it. Just pop off the bottom cover of the truck, the axle assembly should just drop out. Pull the wheel/bearing pieces off the old gear, and slide them onto the new gear. Probably the toughest part is making sure the axles are properly gauged before reinstalling them in the trucks.
Thanks for the post and for the advice. I looked at the loco today. I thought I would have a better look. I noticed the rear wheel of both bogies under the loco where slightly wider than the ones at the front. I decided to squeeze them together. After doing so it felt like I pushed them back in to place I tested the loco and started to run and stayed on track without too much issues. Is that another indicator that the gear is cracked?

Also when replacing the gear what tool would I need to insure it is gauged properly? Sorry new to loco's repairs of this kind. I don't mind trying to do it myself provided I can start off on the right foot. Thanks again for your advice!
 
There's a lot of great advice above from fellow Forum Members and I just want to add several things.

A NMRA standards gauge will be helpful to check the gauge of your wheel-sets. Another tool would be a foam cradle to hold the locomotives while working on the wheel-sets and finally the third item would be to watch several U-Tube videos on changing the wheel-sets, which is actually very easy to do.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Greg
 
There's a lot of great advice above from fellow Forum Members and I just want to add several things.

A NMRA standards gauge will be helpful to check the gauge of your wheel-sets. Another tool would be a foam cradle to hold the locomotives while working on the wheel-sets and finally the third item would be to watch several U-Tube videos on changing the wheel-sets, which is actually very easy to do.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Greg
Thanks Greg, I will let you know how it goes. I am just in the process of purchasing the parts are the Athearn gears of better quality than the Life Like Proto 2000?
 
Walthers purchased Life Like in 2006, and immediately began to offer replacement axles for all the people claiming that theirs had cracked. This went on for about two years, at which Walthers said, 'Last chance...we won't be offering free replacements after X date." From then on, you could order replacements for a few dollars, so not onerous. The new ones offered by Walthers today are drop-in replacements improved so that they don't crack. I wouldn't be surprised if Athearn and Walthers make contracts with the same manufacturer in China.

So, go with what is both available and less costly.
 
Hi Terry and thanks for the post. That would make sense is it difficult fix?
NWSL and Athearn have gears made from a different plastic than the type the Chinese used on these locos. You have to remove the truck cover plates, lift off the wheel/axle assemblies, pull the wheels and axles off the gear and install them in the new gears. Of course, you need an NMRA gage to insure the proper distance between the wheels on each axle. I would replace all the axles, even if you could find the one gear with the crack, as sooner or later they will all go.
Stay well and safe!
 
Walthers purchased Life Like in 2006, and immediately began to offer replacement axles for all the people claiming that theirs had cracked. This went on for about two years, at which Walthers said, 'Last chance...we won't be offering free replacements after X date." From then on, you could order replacements for a few dollars, so not onerous. The new ones offered by Walthers today are drop-in replacements improved so that they don't crack. I wouldn't be surprised if Athearn and Walthers make contracts with the same manufacturer in China.

So, go with what is both available and less costly.

Thats great, thanks for the info. its been very helpful.
 
You said you are using a different kind of track from before.
Is the track in fact HO scale, code 100 or code 83? Anything else, i.e. HOn3 is narrower and you loco won't match up to the guage.

It's code 100 HO scale by Peco. The first layout I built, I had no idea that there were different gauges. So, it may have been the case that I had a mix and match track layout previously. It was so long ago (15 years plus) I can't remember for certain. I know this time around I planned more carefully.
 



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