Hutch's Conway Scenic Railroad Layout


Hutch

Well-Known Member
I think I'm going to try to combine my discussions here. My F7A research thread https://modelrailroadforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/looking-at-f7as.35648/post-562783.

Made some space thread https://modelrailroadforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/made-some-space-finally.35635/post-562105

I don't suppose those threads are really necessary but they are part of my plan. Going forward, this will be my layout build thread. I'll start with this scene.

ConwayStaionSatelliteView.jpg
 
I went down to the basement this morning thinking to do some construction. I had started by screwing boards to the wall above the drain pipes and was going to start building out from that. I didn't like the way it was going so on my drive to work, I decided to lower it below the drain pipe and make the section below the clean-out removable.

The first bench will be a 5x8 foot L-section allowing for 24" curves with some space around them. I also want to try some construction techniques I have never done. I want to cut my plywood to the the track radii that I plan to use and create a couple of elevations. This won't be a closed loop, just a starting point that will finish up at the other end of the basement.

I'm struggling with the concept at this point and not sure where I'm going with it. I'll try to get a drawing started in Sketchup or Scarm over the weekend.
 
Hutch: Boy, you better get the .gov and all the radicals in-line for that - huge pipe line above ground o_O!

Anyway, sounds like to are heading toward a 'cookie cutter' type plan. Lots of info around for this. Basically, you cut out your RoW with a tad more room on both sides, then elevate the portions at some grade wanted leaving the 'ground' below. Great for rivers, canyons, ditches and other things not flat.

Later
 
Hutch: Boy, you better get the .gov and all the radicals in-line for that - huge pipe line above ground o_O!

Anyway, sounds like to are heading toward a 'cookie cutter' type plan. Lots of info around for this. Basically, you cut out your RoW with a tad more room on both sides, then elevate the portions at some grade wanted leaving the 'ground' below. Great for rivers, canyons, ditches and other things not flat.

Later
Possibly but not a given. I just started the drawing and it's really just a rough idea and I didn't add the cookie cutter stuff to the drawing. I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Next step is to draw the track with the elevations in Scarm using these dimensions.

5x8L-section.png
 
I got the benchwork started this weekend. I don't know why I bother drawing up plans other than they give me an idea of what I want. Ease of construction usually wins out and that's what is happening here. I'm really happy to have this much done and it's something to build on which will keep me working on it.

20230319_193929.jpg



The idea is still the same. I'll come off the short section on the left and create the 48" table for the 21" curves for that end of the loop.
 
I got the benchwork started this weekend. I don't know why I bother drawing up plans other than they give me an idea of what I want. Ease of construction usually wins out and that's what is happening here. I'm really happy to have this much done and it's something to build on which will keep me working on it.

View attachment 164785


The idea is still the same. I'll come off the short section on the left and create the 48" table for the 21" curves for that end of the loop.
Looks good so far, nice work.
 
I got the benchwork started this weekend. I don't know why I bother drawing up plans other than they give me an idea of what I want.
That is generally how things go Hutch - you get an idea, put it on paper and by the time you have finished actually building it, it has changed :)
Ease of construction usually wins out and that's what is happening here. I'm really happy to have this much done and it's something to build on which will keep me working on it.
You certainly do and it is good to see you looking ahead. So many people seem to "jump into a layout" as if it is the last thing they will ever do then at some point down the track wish they had done something different. I think that is the nature of the "beast" :)
 
Hmmm... Guess I don't know that either. I was just looking at curved tracks and I see they come 22" and 24". I wonder how much better trains would run on the 24" I have. I can always add some wood to give clearance at the track tangent to the bench. Is it worth it?? I run mostly small trains but the Conway passenger cars are a bit long, I don't know how long.
 
Hmmm... Guess I don't know that either. I was just looking at curved tracks and I see they come 22" and 24". I wonder how much better trains would run on the 24" I have. I can always add some wood to give clearance at the track tangent to the bench. Is it worth it?? I run mostly small trains but the Conway passenger cars are a bit long, I don't know how long.
Make it as big a curve as possible, two reasons. First locos like long sweeping curves and even short trains look really good on them, and it makes them look :cool:.
Second, if you don't, your going to wonder why you didn't 😂
 
I can only reiterate on what @Smudge617 said - the larger the radius you can get away with the better for all the reasons Chris mentioned. All I might add to that is this - the "Larger the Radius your plan can accommodate the better".

What I mean by that is this - I might have room for say 24" Radius Curves (brilliant) BUT if I use 24" then I wont be able to put in such an such an area over there. If I use a 20" radius then I can and that will look better as a layout on the whole! You kinda gotta look at your radius maximums in conjunction with what your track plan aims to achieve - if that makes sense 🤔
 
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Hmmm... Guess I don't know that either. I was just looking at curved tracks and I see they come 22" and 24". I wonder how much better trains would run on the 24" I have. I can always add some wood to give clearance at the track tangent to the bench. Is it worth it?? I run mostly small trains but the Conway passenger cars are a bit long, I don't know how long.
I totally agree with what @Smudge617 wrote. The larger the curve radius-the better. Also from operation point of view. My still fledging layout has about 34" radius at the maximum, but half of my yard is on the curve and that brings the inside track about 10" less, good enough for 40 to 50 foot box cars but anything longer looks very poor on it. And also like @Smudge617 mentioned you will not regret it:)
 
Ya, bigger IS better. That said, space and other constraints come into play although sometimes you can hide the fact that you have a smaller than wanted radii using scenery, buildings ... etc. If you can, place the shorter radii stuff so you see it on the inside of the curve. Also, if you have not thought about it - instead of a l-o-n-g straight track or tracks, give a sweeping large radii curve a chance. The visual effect is darn good. Sure, you could end up with an 'S' curve to make ends meet although if you are over 40" radii it won't matter.

Later
 
I'll bring it as close to the edge as possible using flex track. Even my 48" square piece of bench required moving my tool box. Now I have to figure out where to put that!
My definition of "close to the edge" is the outer edge of the bench to the outer edge of
your rr tie about 2 inches. This will, in the future, afford you the ability to extend the
height of your fascia board an inch or two and make a realistic slope to your track.
Come to think of it - I've never seen a layout where the table edge slopes down away from the roadbed...........?

Looks like you've drilled a series of holes in your cross members now rather than when
your laying on your back with sawdust falling in your face....... with poor light... good call!

From the one photo it appears that your table legs are straight down. You might want to consider
diagonal bracing (leg end attached to the bottom exterior wall and up to the inside of your benchwork).

Don't mean to be critical - Just wanted to share what I wish I knew a layout or two ago.......
 
I was just going to add 1" foam right to the edge and then add a hardboard facia like I see on many layouts.

Those holes are from the previous owner of this wood. I not only bought all the tracks and buildings but the wood also from an estate sale. The holes I need will still need to be drilled. Thanks for bringing that up.

I'll definitely be adding cross bracing after it's all built.
 



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