roofintrash
Well-Known Member
There are tons of u-tube vids on how to work with that stuff, and it looks real easy to assemble. Just figured it would maybe work out for your conditions.
How to frame this?
- Thread starter chessie_system3
- Start date
roofintrash
Well-Known Member
And its cheap too!!!
You did say a "sure fire way". Can't get much more sure fire than a Battleship. What makes the real difference in plywoods are the number of plies themselves, i.e. 5 is better than 3 and 7 is better than 5, so on and so on. As is the hardness of the wood the plies are cut from.. Plywood is very much favored in the US as bracing on stick frame houses and is probably more weather and damp proof. Usually doesn't have a really smooth finish, but that's not so important and you can sand it somewhat if you want. Personally, I wouldn't go below 5 ply.
2Tracks
Ol' School
Just throwing this out there.....could you eliminate some of the material susceptible to warpage, like the plywood? Open grid bench work supports rigid foam nicely. That was the method I used on my first layout, 2" rigid foam on 1"x4" select pine lumber open grid bench work. Any expansion/contraction issues resulted in the foam joints moving horizontally, didn't have a problem with any vertical movement.
logandsawman
Well-Known Member
Where there is excessive moisture, there is warping, however there can be other contributing factors.
Warping can be minimized with relatively stable temp and humidity.
Dave LASM
chessie_system3
Well-Known Member
I have considered using foam. I wasn't sure of it's advantages over plywood or what the issues would be if I used it.
Since you are going to make it 'open grid' benchwork, do you plan on having risers supporting jig sawed sub-roadbed ply attached to it ?
Or are you planning a flat table ? Because, in the end, if you go flat table, you don't need 'busy' open grid style benchwork.
Or are you planning a flat table ? Because, in the end, if you go flat table, you don't need 'busy' open grid style benchwork.
Last edited:
chessie_system3
Well-Known Member
Ok so out of curiosity if I were to do a flat table what style bench work should I use? L girder? I do have a jigsaw so sub roadbed is an option.
No. What I mean is,
if you are reporting that it will be a flat table, open grid and 'L girder' is too busy for that simplicity of bench..You only need simple stringers and cross-members covered with a top like a ping pong table or work bench would have..You don't need all the smaller boxes..just a simple frame and legs..
With that said, 'open grid' is the better way to go about a MRR because it consists of certain needed angles and risers supporting 4" wide sub-roadbed of usually jigsawed 0.5" 5 ply plywood atop risers of same and varied heights for grades, leaving big open spaces to be filled in with scenery..
You can also stand up in the middle of it to do work before, or to do, scenery, preventing your having to reach across a table top to do it...
The advantage of this is, after roads, hills, the track running under it can be reached from below bench to rescue troubled trains or amending track problems in tunnels..A flat table prevents this and also inhibits the scenery from going below track level..
If this appeals to you I'd suggest you YouTube "Open grid model RR benchwork" ... I'm betting members here will post pics of their's as well...
if you are reporting that it will be a flat table, open grid and 'L girder' is too busy for that simplicity of bench..You only need simple stringers and cross-members covered with a top like a ping pong table or work bench would have..You don't need all the smaller boxes..just a simple frame and legs..
With that said, 'open grid' is the better way to go about a MRR because it consists of certain needed angles and risers supporting 4" wide sub-roadbed of usually jigsawed 0.5" 5 ply plywood atop risers of same and varied heights for grades, leaving big open spaces to be filled in with scenery..
You can also stand up in the middle of it to do work before, or to do, scenery, preventing your having to reach across a table top to do it...
The advantage of this is, after roads, hills, the track running under it can be reached from below bench to rescue troubled trains or amending track problems in tunnels..A flat table prevents this and also inhibits the scenery from going below track level..
If this appeals to you I'd suggest you YouTube "Open grid model RR benchwork" ... I'm betting members here will post pics of their's as well...
Last edited:
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I am not a fan of garages for layouts as my 1st one after college was in one. Boy, in Chicago weather conditions that was a dumb move on my part. However, because you are going to build in one, here is what I would do. For framing buy quality 1x3’s or 1x4’s or cut the same from 1/2 sanded plywood. Either paint or preferably seal coat them with a lacquer. For the top, 2” thick insulating foam either the pink or blue stuff glued with Liquid Nails for Projects. Foam doesn’t expand or contract in hot or cold weather. The framing because it will be sealed should not be affected.
Steel framing might still be a bit higher priced then wood at this time because at least in my area lumber has come down a bit. The problem I am told with steel/aluminum framing is the lack of experience using it. Another issue is tools. Different saw blades, cutting snips Have fun.
Steel framing might still be a bit higher priced then wood at this time because at least in my area lumber has come down a bit. The problem I am told with steel/aluminum framing is the lack of experience using it. Another issue is tools. Different saw blades, cutting snips Have fun.
logandsawman
Well-Known Member
I read your thread a couple times and I think you have fully addressed the warping issue with the foam. However, if your plywood base bowed, it would take an edgewise glued 1 x 4" or similar. Still, if you have humidity issues you might be fighting that perennially.
The 1 x 4's should be straight grained and large knots should not be present.
My new layout is at 48" and I am just starting to lay down the track. I use sheathing as the base, which is set about 1" below grade of my key features. So, I lay out the plywood and build above it for the most part. It makes a good workbase and I can go up a lot.
I do not like foam at all because it feels "weak" to me. A totally personal feeling.
I go about it somewhat backwards in that I start with my surface, which in this case is 7/16" OSB. I cut out the size I need outdoors and reinforce it outside as well, then bring in to the train room and assemble. I just kind of keep reinforcing it until it is strong enough. This doesn't work for everyone.
This layout in progress is 48" in height. The room is 8':
To enter you duckunder where I am standing taking the picture. Door is closet, cut out to access. With a more open bottom, access is a breeze for even a 64 year old.
My legs are 2-2x4 screwed together.
I await your progress, Dave LASM
chessie_system3
Well-Known Member
You know I've read both good and bad on using osb board for a layout. Most have said that it is prone to obsorbing moisture. Which wouldn't work for me in my current location. Now the fix for it was to seal it. Which has been suggested I do to my next layout. I wish I could have a dedicated room for my trains. The garage is like a dungeon. It's my biggest plague to my layouts.
