How do you uncouple your trains?


How do you uncouple your trains?

  • Using Kadee uncouplers

    Votes: 3 8.6%
  • Manually using a special "tool"

    Votes: 23 65.7%
  • Combination of both

    Votes: 9 25.7%

  • Total voters
    35
I find that Rix Products uncoupling tools are, while not always perfect, useful.

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I seen those on sale on Walthers website but wasnt sure how well they worked so I didnt get one. Ill have to consider one of these.
 
I seen those on sale on Walthers website but wasnt sure how well they worked so I didnt get one. Ill have to consider one of these.

All metal cars can be a PITA since the tool wants to stick to the cars - makes it tricky to get the tool in between the cars and back out without derailing a car. Otherwise, it works pretty good. I slip it between the cars and give it a little fore and aft movement and it uncouples the cars pretty easy enough. A slight nudge with the tool then separates the cars.
 
All metal cars can be a PITA since the tool wants to stick to the cars - makes it tricky to get the tool in between the cars and back out without derailing a car. Otherwise, it works pretty good. I slip it between the cars and give it a little fore and aft movement and it uncouples the cars pretty easy enough. A slight nudge with the tool then separates the cars.

However, it is useful to have one of their Rail-Its on hand just in case you screw up... it is annoying uncoupling from steam locos.
 
I have a small plastic stick with a notch at the end that works well. Assuming the cars arent knocked off the track by someone being careless. Sometimes it is just easier to lift the car a bit and rerail it.
 
I have a small plastic stick with a notch at the end that works well. Assuming the cars arent knocked off the track by someone being careless. Sometimes it is just easier to lift the car a bit and rerail it.

Murphy's Law of Model Railroading:
If you lift your car to uncouple it, it will not get back on the track quickly or without some frustration on your part.
This is especially true on tracks that aren't level.
 
Interesting that the poll results show that over 64% of modeler's uncouple all their trains manually. If we factor in the "Combination" option, that's probably closer to 70% that use some kind of manual uncoupling. I did not think that it would be that high.
 
Yep, and Rex has a nice collection of color coded skewers, which are great for operating sessions. You can use them to uncouple cars or poke the guy who's train is in your way. :)
You mean skew the guy in the way. LOL:D
Yeah, I painted all of my skewers International ORANGE! Got tired of never finding them and don't have a problem now:rolleyes::D
 
Interesting that the poll results show that over 64% of modeler's uncouple all their trains manually. If we factor in the "Combination" option, that's probably closer to 70% that use some kind of manual uncoupling. I did not think that it would be that high.

If you would have asked this question 10 years ago. Im sure the results would have been what your saying. Seemed the magnets were the hot thing back then. Im thinking its mostly because of a combination of them being an eyesore in yards and sidings sitting out in the open between the rails and the chance of an uncoupling when crossing over the magnet. Todays modelers seem to be much more into a realistic look and arent intrested in having something that doesnt look right sitting in between the rails. Just my guess really.
 
Rex, some of them are a little sharper than others, just like the operators. :)

Chris, I think you're right. I know the club I belonged to in the late 60's had track magnets and we spent all kinds of time fiddling with glad hand heights trying to make them work well. They never did and they were ugly. With the mixture of metal and plastic couplers today, a track magnet is even more redundant. I know MTH has come up with their goofy idea of an automatic uncoupler but I am surprised that no company has come up with a better method of automatic uncoupling than a magnet.
 



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