How do I get a Lionel set from the 50-6o's to run

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Well, we could really use a lot more information, and some pictures would definitely help. But in lieu of that for right now........................

Put your track together on a suitable surface. The pieces probably form an oval, or maybe just a circle. There should be a "lock-on", a device that clips to the track. This allows wires from the transformer to hook up to the track. Then hook up two small wires from the transformer to the lock-on. Set your loco on the track, and plug in the transformer to an outlet. By moving the lever on the transformer, it will start feeding voltage to the track, and the loco should start moving. By turning the lever off and on, the train should start, stop, reverse, stop, then keep repeating this sequence.

This assumes that this is an A.C.-powered train (most Lionel trains are), the track is clean, the transformer is in working condition, the loco has a working reversing unit that cycles in a forward-neutral-reverse-neutral sequence (or it may have just a forward-reverse sequence, without any neutrals). The main problem is though, if it hasn't been run in over thirty years, it may need some serious maintenance before it will run at all.

Hope this helps for now.
 


This is a good example of reality. Trying to get a set to work after a long time in storage.
If you ask for help detail is important. If you reference the set state the set number. I could not find the set you mentioned by name.
Since the OP never came back, I thought some tips for future posting would help.

The engine number is the best information to give. That is how most Lionel engines are identified. Of course this is the part that has to work.
The transformer also has to work too and be safe. Visually check the cord.
Not to place all your eggs in one basket an extra engine or transformer would not hurt.

The first step is running the motor directly with the transformer. Place one wire on the roller and the other on the frame (if metal). If it works, oil it a little. Clean the track and run it.
Motors need to be cleaned. Here I will say You tube has many videos on maintenance.

I think the engine is key. If it is all plastic including the motor an upgrade would be worth it.
 
I thought some tips for future posting would help.
Good information indeed!
Red Texas Thunder set from Lionel
I could not find the set you mentioned by name.
As usual I believe you are correct sir! As far as I know Lionel never produced a set with that name in any catalog, postwar or modern.

I've heard that hobbyists sometimes use “Red Texas Thunder” as a nickname for the bright‑red Texas Special sets, because the color scheme is bold and the train looks fast and flashy.

So glad to see your post, Dub! I’ve been wondering how you’ve been; we’ve missed you!
 
So glad to see your post, Dub! I’ve been wondering how you’ve been; we’ve missed you!

I couldn't stay away. I had a windows 10 meltdown. Now I am planning on organizing data.
I am not too fond of Window 11 changes, so I am still getting accustomed to that.
Aside from that I will try to post something.
 


The small basic set transformer for that period was two terminals, speed lever and a cord.
You know the cord is good if it is flexible with no cracks. If it does it will need a new cord.
That can be a problem if you cannot access the case. The ideal solution is to get inside and solder a new cord to the coil lugs.
A secondary repair is to leave four inches of the old wire out. Buy some insulated crimp connectors and spice the new cord in and electrical tape or shrink tubing. Remember the cost of these is minimal so replacement can be a safer solution.
These little transformers are great for bench testing and secondary power sources for accessories.

Out of curiosity I found two transformers to compare. The cords were stiff and usable. At some point a cord replacement would be nice.
The transformers a 4125 and a 4150 have security screws, It will take an oddball bit to gain access. To describe it as two round sides and two flat sides.
 
The transformers a 4125 and a 4150 have security screws, It will take an oddball bit to gain access. To describe it as two round sides and two flat sides.
Cool find, nice little transformers!

During the early 60s, UL and internal safety policies pushed Lionel to use tamper‑resistant screws on small transformers. The 4125 and 4150 were marketed for starter sets, so they got the “kid‑proof” hardware.

I think the screw you are describing is a Clutch head. A Type-G Clutch head bit might work.

Now I'm curious, let me know what you find out.
 
Ok a second look confirms your info. They do have that figure 8 design, but it was hard to see. The screws are small and not the best quality.
My clutch bits are way too large. I used a square S 0 bit with rounded edges and that was enough to get two out,
Time to shop.
 
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Here is the removed screw from the transformer 4150. The last two screws were drilled with a 3/16th drill. The heads removed and then opened. Once opened a vice grip grabbed the remnant for removal.IMG_20260212_153804482copy.jpg
 
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Here is the new cord installed. It is used but not as old as the original.
IMG_20260213_135209441small.jpg

I used 3/4 inch number 6 wood screws for replacements. The Base was repaired from the drilling, by filling with epoxy. When hardened, I made a pilot hole for centering then drilled a 5/32 hole for the screw. It was countersunk with a 3/16th inch drill bit. The epoxy was leveled off first with a Dremel drum sanding bit. I use a polishing/wax compound to clean up transformer cases. They clean up well and get a little shine too.

IMG_20260213_140300357small.jpg

I also checked out three other transformers 4851's. They have a torx screw, It is a 9 or a 10, The ten bit used had a center hole. A normal ten from another set did not work. One transformer had blind studs, So that would have to be drilled out. The blind stud just has a round head. No bit. These are used in Lionel accessories like the bumper.
 
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Just a little more information to finish up. The stand used in these models is just plastic. If you break them up to get the screws out there is another option. Try to find a rubber grommet with an offset to fit the replacement screw head.

The terminals on top were consistent and use a 6/32nd nut, rather common, and look for a knurled nut to get fancy. The transformer I just fixed has a nut with a plastic cap. Using epoxy, you can cover a nut and replicate the cap. Just keep the threads clear with a bolt but do not go in too deep. You do want to remove the bolt after it hardens or before it sets completely.
Other types can vary to 4-40 or the older 4-36 which is harder to find. You may need a repair manual or thread gage to find out what you have.

You can use three prong plugs. The green wire stays unconnected. You do use the ability to phase the transformer with others. You need to rotate the plug in the outlet. Unless the other transformer is rotated, of course.
 




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