HO track which brand, type


AndyD

New Member
Hi everyone, I'm getting ready to buy track for my 4x8 layout. I was wondering which brand people are using and what type? I've seen nickel, steel, (are there any other types). I've pretty much decided to go with code 100. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
If you are set on code 100 then Atlas nickle silver is a good choice. You could go with Atlas code 83 for a better rail profile at about the same price. Code 100 represents very heavy rail that is not common on most railroads. Peco code 83 is also an excellent choice for realism and reliability.
 
G'day....Couldn't agree more with the learned gentlemen here..Atlas Code 100 is superb...so is Code 83... IF you're going to run CO-CO locos also buy Atlas No.6 or even No 8
turnouts...Definitely better than most and well priced to boot...A fellow modeller here in OZ found a place selling flexitrack for $4.10 per length if you bought a box of 25 or
$4.60 for lesser quantities....Turnouts are about $24 each for manual ones and about $29-30 for electric..here anyway...really affordable...Cheers Rod..
 
It sometimes is the case that you can recover and re-use rail you arranged on a layout, but not often. Most often, once rail is placed, ballasted, and painted/weathered, it gets damaged when lifting it. However, most of us make determined efforts to recover turnouts for reuse since they are expensive...especially if they have worked flawlessly.

Many of us start in Code 100, but no modern railroad uses that weight of rail, and in times past, only a couple of roads used 155 pound rail, one being the Pennsy. Code 100 works out to 165 pound weight...grossly oversized. So, by the time we're thinking of starting a second stab at a layout, we often resort to a better fit, and that is either Code 83 or even Code 70. That means we won't even re-use our Code 100 turnouts because they'll look bulky next to our bran' spankin' new Code 83. What a shame. Or, you could opt early to use Code 83 and preclude having to place all the Code 100 stuff, including turnouts, in the trash. If you recover most of your Code 83 turnouts for Round Three, you'll save a hockey sock of money.
 
You also asked about steel or nickel. Nickel-silver rail is the best way to go. It doesn't corrode as easily as steel and conducts power well. You wont need to spend as much time cleaning it.
 
Thank you for all of the posts. I will be going with nickel silver, I just have to decide on which code. All of my newer engines can run on code 83. I have several engines from approx 20 years ago that I would like to also run on the layout I'm just not sure if they can on code 83. I guess I could buy a piece of code 83 flex track to see how they fit. If it works I'll go with code 83. If not then I'll need to decide what to do.
 
Thank you for all of the posts. I will be going with nickel silver, I just have to decide on which code. All of my newer engines can run on code 83. I have several engines from approx 20 years ago that I would like to also run on the layout I'm just not sure if they can on code 83. I guess I could buy a piece of code 83 flex track to see how they fit. If it works I'll go with code 83. If not then I'll need to decide what to do.

If they have problems it will be on the turnouts where the flanges on some older wheels are too deep
 
Twenty years ago shouldn't be a problem unless they were already twenty years old at the time. If only one or two are a problem, buy some North West Short Lines wheels and change them out. If they are older Athearns with the sintered metal wheels, you may want to do that anyway.
willie
 
Atlas Nickel Silver is what you want to us most likely but I would suggest code 83 for a more realistic look over the code 100. Your choice since both are the same cost.
 
I much prefer Wathers/Shinohara (in code 83) due to its being double slider rail.....a bit more pricy than Atlas but worth every penny......It comes in 1 meter sections.
 
What ever track you choose, absolutely go with nickel silver rail. Years ago I was in N scale, and had a layout with over 16 scale miles of main line. Back in the 70's, N scale locomotives were what I would call primitive, not like they are today. I switched to HO scale and was really impressed with a layout of the late Pete Ellis of Cascade, MT. He was all hand laid code 70, and I chose to do the same, mainly for the looks.

After the oversize N scale track with the pizza cutter wheels, I wanted something that looked more realistic. I don't mean to insult any N scalers, but this was my personal feelings. I did enjoy my N scale and the size of a layout that one could put in a given space. I have seen many fantastic N scale layouts, but the size of the rail gets me, but you have to work with what's available. My HO layout main line is drastically shorter than I would like, but I do enjoy the lower profile track.

I really wouldn't start a layout in code 70, but the looks of code 83, Atlas, Peco or Shinohara look great, closer the size of real rail. The picture here is code 70, and if you look at the size of the figures and the size of the rail, it will give you an idea. The availability of code 83 is pretty good, and even with the slightly increased price, would probably be worth it.

IMAG0048_BURST002.jpg
 
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Both rails slide by the spikes. You can solder up a straight connection then bend the new section to a radius. Try that with a single slider.
 
Thanks again for all of the info. I've decided to go with the code 83 nickle silver track. If my old engines won't work then I will either switch out the wheels or just put them on display
 
Thanks again for all of the info. I've decided to go with the code 83 nickle silver track. If my old engines won't work then I will either switch out the wheels or just put them on display

I think you will be satisfied with code 83 NS track. Besides hand laid, it tends to look the best and seems to be the most popular choice for modelers.
 



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