HO Locos/Rolling Stock & 18" Radius Curves


S

StrasburgNut

Pennsy Area rail fan
I do not remember where I saw it, but I read somewhere that quite a few people have no problem using 18" radius curves on their HO layouts. There are some limitations though, can't use longer wheel based cars, but they can run basic 40' and 50' cars and some decent size locos. :eek: My question is can you run GP's on 18" radius? I do not expect the dual truck/three axle GP's to make that radius, but can the dual truck/two axle GP's negotiate an 18" radius? What is the maximum length rolling stock anyone has run on 18" radius?
 
Well I am still figuring out what kind of radiuses I have :p but my guess they are not much larger then 18". I managed to run the RS-3 without problems, but the 3 axle SD40-2 sometimes throws a wheel out of the rails. I think the SD40-2 can also run on 18" but it will be very tight, and the curve has to be perfect.
 
Four wheel trucked locomotives like GP's and RS's will usually run fine around 18" diameter track. Six wheel truck locomotives is pushing it although some will make it around but probably derail the train they are hauling. 40' and 50' cars are usually OK too. The main thing is making sure that you have a perfect curves with no kinks or dips. A small problem on a 24" radius curve is a big problem on an 18" curve.
 
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I think the real issue many people have with 18" curves is, trains look kind of toylike when they go around them - broad overhang, etc.
 
Ken, while you're right about the toy-like appearance on 18" radius curves, it's also an equipment issue. I tried running a passenger train with four 80 foot passenger cars led by an SD-24 on my 18" passing track. The SD-24 made it though but the passengers were a bit shaken up. :) There's just so much coupler swing that works with 18" radius curves and I had exceeded that limit. I guess that's why my freights usually take the passing track and the passenger trains hold the main. :D
 
Ken you are right about the toy like looking curves, but if people have space problems or cannot afford big layouts its how they have to work. I started my layout about 7 years ago, but had to stop for various reasons, now I started again and hopingt o finish it. when I started it I had a tight budget and when especially I saw the costs of the switches (turnouts), I found a "4 x 8" layout which could have some thrill but with very little switches, (in total I had 8 of them) and at that time I was inexperienced and had a hard time to put up the layout with all those up & down hills, so now that I started again I was not looking to destroy the job I had done so far. Only now I realising the restriction I have with the tight curves, and even though I'm trying to work on them again to gain as much radius as I can, its hard to get more then 20" on the current setting.

If I live long enough, and have enough money for another layout, I would close part of my large garage and dedicate it only to a huge layout. I have a 6 car garage with only 2 cars in it :p ( garage measuring 70 feet x 18 feet as a whole plan )
 
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No problems with geeps on 18" curves and #4 switches and engine runarounds, but the Athearn SD9 fouls up on #4 switches/yard crossover and binds on the 18" curves. I tried grinding off the flanges, a la Virginia & Truckee 4-6-0 steamers for tight curves (center axle of a three wheel truck), but it doesn't work as the wheels slide off the rail, drop, and derail the truck as it comes out of the turn. The SD9 was an experiment as a switcher.
 
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