help with identification


WC3026

WC3026

Member
Just picked up two locos from a guy used. one is an athearn and the other I have no idea what it is but it runs awesome on dc. Now need to find out what kind it is so I can figure out how to install DCC.

the bottom of the trucks say made in austria, and there are little holes in the middle of the trucks on the bottom that say oil.

I am thinking it is a GP38-2 but not sure there either.



 
The guy I got them from said it was Con-cor but I wasnt sure so when I stopped at the LHS they said it looked like it might be an older atlas. now even after searching I can find nothing about how to put DCC in it, It does look like the motor is already isolated so that will be easy but I want to make sure I so it right!!!
 
WC3026 said:
The guy I got them from said it was Con-cor but I wasnt sure so when I stopped at the LHS they said it looked like it might be an older atlas. now even after searching I can find nothing about how to put DCC in it, It does look like the motor is already isolated so that will be easy but I want to make sure I so it right!!!
Click to expand...
Old Atlas and ConCor are exactly the same. ConCor bought out Atlas's old tooling when Atlas went to Kato & China drives.

I mostly use a NCE DA-SR or Digitrax DH165A0 decoder for this type of installation. I get some double sided foam sticky tape and tape it directly to the top of that grey bracket over the wheels. All the ones I've done had this bracket on both sides of the motor so you might have to rig a holder on the front OR just tape it directly to the top of the motor. I've taped many decoders directly to the motor.

Normally the wires from the track pick up off the trucks go directly to both ends of the decoder. In this case you could change the wires in the front from the existing circuit board to the decoder, or leave the connection and run two wires from the existing circuit board up to the one end of the decoder. The motor contacts are in the center of the decoder. The hardest part will be how you want to do the headlamp. Leaving it as is (assuming you route the track power through the existing circuit board) will power it with full track power hence full brightness all the time.
 
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