Help Please!


G

GTW 5847

New Member
Hey folks! I am in the process of getting a layout that was already built but I was wondering if it would be best to use a power supply or a transformer (s) to power it.

Also, I am looking into purchasing the new Walthers HO scale cantilever Crossing signals:

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-2314

It says that they require this:

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-2307

Which requires this:

Power pack or an 18V AC power supply, sold separately.

I have a transformer that has an input of 120VAC 60 HZ and outputs of -15.5VDC, 18.5VAC and a total of 17VA. Is the 18.5VAC enough to power the signal? Also, can you wire two signals into the same detection unit, or would I have to buy a whole new detection unit? Thanks a lot to anyone who can help!
 
Any transformer, whether power pack or wall wart type transformer, that outputs between 16 and 18 volts will work with the detector. However, this is not a purchase I'd make. The crossing signals are fine but the detector will not work with, and will actually damage DCC systems. Even if you're using normal DC now, you will want to switch to DCC at some time in the future and you will have wasted $35 and all the associated wiring on this detector. Search Walthers for other optical detector systems. There are ones that are no more expensive and will work with DC and DCC.
 
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Thanks a lot for the tips! If I do decide to get these signals, I will take your advice and get the detection unit that is also compatible for DCC. However, I can't really see myself making the change to DCC anytime soon, because I don't really have a lot of money. Plus, a only have about 2 locomotives that are DCC ready, an Atlas GTW GP38, and an Atlas IC GP40. From what I've been told, it is very hard to wire a decoder into an older engine, and they make up the majority of my roster. I have an old Atlas or two, a couple Athearns that are about two or three years old, a Walthers Super 7, and some old old Athearns. Take it easy!
-Adam
 
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Whether or not it is hard to wire a decoder into an older loco is a matter of your skill set. If you can solder, there is not much of a problem. The real question is are the locos worth the effort. If they run smoothly, like your Atlases, then you can convert them for about $14 ea. (no sound).

The point that was made is that eventually, you will convert to DCC. DC has gone the way of the cassette tape. You can still work them in old equipment, but everything about DCC is better than DC. Now all engines are designed with DCC and sound in mind. So throw as little of your money as you can after old technology.
 
Chip said it exactly right. I started on my layout in February this year after being out of the hobby for about 30 years. I had mostly older locomotives that I had saved and I knew and understood DC so why did I need this new-fangled DCC stuff? Well, I found a Bachmann DCC equipped 70 tonner for $25 at e-bay. Still ran on DC so no need for any of this DCC stuff. Then I saw a Bachmann E-Z Command DCC controller at e-bay with a starting bid of $30. I thought, what the heck, I'll bid $45 and see if I win. Well, win I did. I started reading up on DCC before I installed the DCC controller. The nice thing about the Bachmann system (in addition to being cheap) is that it still allows you to run all your DC locomotives too. Then I found an Atlas DCC equipped UP SDP-35, an engine I wanted for years. The LHS had it for an astounding $60 so I snapped it up. Now I had a 70 tonner, that finally ran smoothly with DCC and my SDP-35. Then I got an Atlas DCC ready SD-24 and got one of those $15 decoders Chip talked about. It plugged right in and took longer to get the body on and off than to do the conversion. Set them up to run as a consist and it's amazing to see a train with two units running at walking speed around the entire layout.

Then...I saw a P2K Limited Edition UP GP-7 with DCC AND a sound card for $149 (List: $225). I couldn't resist and, except for an infantile failure of the sound card, which Walthers replaced for no charge, it has been a blast. Literally. My wife will call me on my cell phone when I'm in the basement whistling for the crossings and tell me to stop blowing that dang horn. :D

The point of this long-winded dissertation is that DCC and sound are like drugs. You will get addicted and you will want more. Don't waste money on anything that won't work with DCC - you'll kick yourself a year from now.
 
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I really do appreciate you guys helping me out here! You do definitely have me convinced that I will go DCC some day, but I think that I'll start with DC. But I will keep in mind to buy stuff that will work only on DCC. I just bought a GTW GP38 Atlas DCC ready on Sunday for 79 bucks. I've also heard of people making their layouts compatible with both DC and DCC. How does this work? Are there any real major disadvantages to doing this? Thanks!
 
As long as the DCC controller will output 12 volts DC, any of your existing DC engines will still run. There are a few controlers that will only run DCC engines but most have one position for running DC engines as well as DCC engines at the same time. The Bachmann system even allows you plug in an inexpensive Bachmann DC controller to the DCC controller, freeing up the 10th DCC position and allowing simultaneous throttle operation of DC and DCC engines running together.

The only disadvantage is that a DC engine, left standing on DCC powered track, risks engine damage because the voltage being fed to the motor is higher than normal DC. It's a good idea to remove your DC engines for the tracks if you're not running them but the damage is normally takes many hours, even if you foget. There's no problem if the engine is actually running.
 
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