Thanks. Me and my dad should be doing that this weekend.AmtrakFan said:Roman,
Welcome to Model Railroad Forums. I would advise getting or having someone build a 4x8 Table to put your trains on.
Thanks.jbaakko said:WOW complex! Great minds think alike hey?
Considering the fact that DC allows to run multiple trains and mine is basically one huge piece I was thinkng of having maybe one block and two power sources? I don't want to do more then 4 blocks and it would be pretty hard to cut it up in my opinion.Looks like you may have a fun time wiring that for DC. I think you could get away with something like 6-8 blocks? Anyone else?
Thanks again.jbaakko said:Sounds great! Hope to see progress reports when you begin construction. Good luck!
I've been reading http://www.nmra.org/beginner/wiring.html but am still confused as to where you use two insulators and one.jbaakko said:That would be the need for more then one block, otherwise, you'll have to remove the locomotive from the rails... One block would probly only need one insulator joint, and that woud be on the cross over to keep it from shorting out there.
By on do you mean plugged in? So they don't have to be set to a certain speed such as 20miles/hour?jbaakko said:In DC it'll have to be on, if you're using it on the same track, for it to provide a 2nd power source.
Sounds fun, what are you decalling? (never mind, see it in the other thread).As I'll let someone else answer in detail as I'm quite busy getting ready to decal right now.
It'll be like, say ones on 10 the others on 10 it should, roughly equal out to 20 then... Although speeds and DC power levels are quite varying, but thats what it'll be like. NOW say, you have, one set to 0 and the other 10 then it'll go 10...Russian said:By on do you mean plugged in? So they don't have to be set to a certain speed such as 20miles/hour?
Russian said:When connecting a power source, do you use this method: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/150-845
or this method: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/150-842
As I'm lost. Those two appear to be competing technologies as I understand.
As dum as this question is, do track pieces include rail joiners? Or do I have to buy those separately as well? Also, is the "manual switch part" that in real life you would turn with your hands, included ussually with a turnout?
I see. Basically like having two engines in the car. What I was thinking was that one power pack would be working, while the other one was a back-up in case the first one couldn't handle the load.jbaakko said:It'll be like, say ones on 10 the others on 10 it should, roughly equal out to 20 then... Although speeds and DC power levels are quite varying, but thats what it'll be like. NOW say, you have, one set to 0 and the other 10 then it'll go 10...
That's what I was thinking. I already have the 1st option powerpack that came with the trainset. Now that I think about it it's quite a masterpiece, since its a:I'd use option 2!
Thanks for answering, but that's still not what I'm getting at. Are the turnouts as shown: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/150-283 or is there the little stick you use to flip the switch with your fingers, i.e. is it and the rail joiners included?As for manual switches, yes you'll have to manualy move them, depending on the manufacurer (atlas manual yes, atlas customline just has the switch stand blocks). But going with customline the transfer into the switch will be much smoother.
Yes, these need to be purchased separately. Or don't need to be purchased if you install switch machines.Are you suggesting then that the turnout doesn't normally have the piece you use to throw the switch? So I would need to buy those separately? (in case I'm lacking proper terminology, I'm talking about this yellow thing:
Sorry. Can't be done that way. To be able to run two trains, you need a minimum of two blocks. Three trains require three blocks, and so on.Considering the fact that DC allows to run multiple trains and mine is basically one huge piece I was thinking of having maybe one block and two power sources?
As soon as I figure out how, I'll show you how to divide the track plan into 7 blocks.I don't want to do more then 4 blocks and it would be pretty hard to cut it up in my opinion.
Insulated rail joiners are used at the end (beginning) of each block to ensure that the rails don't accidentally contact each other. 14.How do insulators play into this? How many would you say I need?
As always, there are several ways to handle this. One way would be to install a "kill switch" for the track in front of the depot. A sort of "non-block" solution. Or it could be wired as part of a larger block, or as its own block. Decisions, decisions, decisions.As weird as this question is, is there a way to turn off engines so that they won't be effected by DC? At the depot I was hoping on having all my power stationed, how do I isolate it so that it doesn't start moving when DC comes on? Or is this where I need two blocks?
Save yourself a lot of confusion and troubles. Always use two insulated rail joiners.am still confused as to where you use two insulators and one.
This is exactly what I was talking about when I suggested using a kill switch. In essence, you're just turning off all power to a specific section of track. Locos in that section will just sit there until you turn the power back on. And no hand manipulation is required.I think I've solved the problem for the depot, I'll just disconnect it from the system with an insulator! Not a big hassle considering that it would look much worse empty then full of locos. I'm also considering using a similar "trick" for the main station sliding. If the train moves too far in, it'll be in offline territory, meaning it would stay there, and by moving a bit forward, it could run again!
You need to avoid, at all costs, connecting two controllers to the same track at the same time. Bad things will happen.if you're using it on the same track, for it to provide a 2nd power source
1) The turnouts are just as shown. The are designed so you can either add a switch machine (http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/800-6000) or a ground throw (http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/97-101 or http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/97-204).Are the turnouts as shown: or is there the little stick you use to flip the switch with your fingers, i.e. is it and the rail joiners included?
I know what you mean. I was answering e-mails and heard a train horn, so I dropped everything and ran outside to take some pictures. Five units in total on the CBNS shortline, GP40u leading, followed by a SD45-2, a GP38-2 and two more SD45-2's...Red Oak & Western said:Sorry for the delay in getting these posted. Sometimes life gets in the way of the railroad.
I don't think there's anything else I could use. Solar panels maybe?power packs, or whatever you use to provide DC to your locos
That's why I'm going to stay with one block, way less complicated and perfect for what I want to do with it.Figure 3 shows how a double pole double throw switch is wired to connect two controllers to one block. You need one DPDT switch for each block on your layout. If you decide to have three cabs you must install double pole triple throw switches (DP3T); for four cabs, it would be double pole quadruple (or quad) throw (DP4T). DPDT switches shift side to side (or up and down). Three or more throw switches are rotary. To learn more about switches, check out http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/switch.htm.
I think it'll be just me. I don't mind sharing, there's just not many people around these parts. I don't even know if there are any railfans in town.The real question to answer is: How many people will be running trains on the layout AT THE SAME TIME?
I see now, I'm going to go all manual. Always enjoyed the sight of a crewman jujumping off the last boxcar to switch the switch.Red Oak & Western said:Yes, these need to be purchased separately. Or don't need to be purchased if you install switch machines.
I understand that. But if I have two trains on opposite sides of the layout, I could still control both of them at the same time with one power pack?Sorry. Can't be done that way. To be able to run two trains, you need a minimum of two blocks. Three trains require three blocks, and so on.
Please don't try that. It's pretty confusing and complex as it is. All I can add to it now is underground warehouse switching.As soon as I figure out how, I'll show you how to divide the track plan into 7 blocks.
So my crossover in the middle would require four of them then? I guess I can make it "unstable ground" or something like that, where the locomotives are too heavy to run, but the cars are just fine.Insulated rail joiners are used at the end (beginning) of each block to ensure that the rails don't accidentally contact each other.
Good thing they come in a large package.Save yourself a lot of confusion and troubles. Always use two insulated rail joiners.
But if the depo area receives power, all the locos will be moving! Thus I think it'll be better for all of it to be always dead.And no hand manipulation is required.
Thanks a lot for that one, as I was going to get two power packs on the same block. So what does happen? Fire?You need to avoid, at all costs, connecting two controllers to the same track at the same time. Bad things will happen.
Yes, a ground throw was what I was refering to.1) The turnouts are just as shown. The are designed so you can either add a switch machine (http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/800-6000) or a ground throw (http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/97-101 or http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/97-204).
Sounds like a good idea.2) Rail joiners are sometimes included, sometimes not, depending on the track. But they aren't expensive, so buy a pack anyway.
Not successfully.But if I have two trains on opposite sides of the layout, I could still control both of them at the same time with one power pack?
Fire is an actual possibility, but not likely. Most likely, just blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers in the power supplies.So what does happen? Fire?
Actually, if you're not dividing the layout into blocks, the answer is No, it would require none.So my crossover in the middle would require four of them then?
When you pickup the supplies to build your table, buy 4 "leg levelers". The kind that are threaded and have a plastic or metal insert that installs in the leg. While it seems like a minor detail, having a level table really makes operating easier. And if you pick up "construction grade" lumber, known as SPF, be sure to let it sit in your layout room for at least a week to dry out before you try to use it. SPF lumber is sold with a moisture content of between 15% and 20%. It needs to get to 7% to 9% to be stable inside your home. If you use it before it has dried, it can (and probably will) warp way out of shape, ruining your table. And just screw the top to the frame, don't glue it. At some point you may need to remove the top to repair the base and if its glued ….Still got to pick up supplies to build that table though.
That's why I'm planning on isolating that piece with 4 insulators!Red Oak & Western said:Finally, I hate to be the one to tell you, but based on your track plan, you'll have to add some complex wiring due to a "reverse loop" (where the yellow track connects from the blue track to the black track). If you simply apply power to the rails, there will be an immediate short.
That is primarily a storage track, that'll be the back of the train station with a 2nd floor parking lot.Use the space to put industries or facilities along the blue track.
I know, but my scenery is going to be built from Lego, thus I'll be able to make quite a bit of various things. Also a front of one business will be the back of another business on the other side etc.A common mistake beginners (and some not so beginners) make is to put in so much track, there is no room for the industries the track is intended to service.
I don't know how to do that, you could try going by squares, for instance industrial switch at 2U1RCan the tracks be labeled using RTS? If so, could you number the switches? It would make it easier to refer to specific pieces of track in your layout design.