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Bernie, I'm not sure which version this one is, but here's a pic anyway. I glued a pair of long "ties" (styrene square rods) that extend out to form a spot to place the throw. These should look like the extra long ties used for just this purpose.
A hole drilled in the switch's throw rod mates with the pin on the Caboose throw.
I'm doing the same Bernie so no pix yet.
On the old layout I used N scale throws because the size looked better but they didn't throw as tight. Might be going back to HO ones again.
I'm doing the same Bernie so no pix yet.
On the old layout I used N scale throws because the size looked better but they didn't throw as tight. Might be going back to HO ones again.
One thing to keep in mind if you're using Atlas turnouts is which version you're using as the Atlas have different throw lengths and that will make a difference in which CI throws you use as the CI's have differing throw lengths as well. Also remember that some of the CI's list as being usable in either HO or N.
I'll be using the CI throws as well, & I was wondering how you guys attach them to the roadbed/benchwork...?
Can they be mounted on cork roadbed?
Can they be attached with some type of glue?
I'm having dificulty finding screws that are long enough to go through the cork into the ply, & yet small enough to fit the holes on the base of the throw...
Drew, if you use the method I describe above, you don't mount the throw to the roadbed at all. Just mount it to the longer "ties" and then those ties mount to the underside of the existing ties. This way the throw floats with the switch. Use plastic weld/glue.
here's a cross-section sketch to explain. You can even build this on the bench.
The 2nd pic above shows this installed, the long ties on the 1st pic have been covered by sculptamold so they don't show.
Drew, if you use the method I describe above, you don't mount the throw to the roadbed at all. Just mount it to the longer "ties" and then those ties mount to the underside of the existing ties. This way the throw floats with the switch. Use plastic weld/glue.
Hmmm. Interesting idea! I never cared for gluing throws down to my foam "benchwork" but I couldn't think of an alternative aside from screwing them to a piece of fiberboard which in turn was glued to the foam.
see the long ties supporting the switch stand? Those are represented by the long styrene squares (Evergreen, whatever size matches the scale tie width). Use square material to get the strength you need.
The fact that in my model method they are actually UNDER the switch ties is not often noticeable if you match the color close enough. If you wanted to get really anal you could notch them so that the tops of the ties and the styrene are the same.
This maintains exact alignment between the ground throw and the switch. It takes the foam and ground cover totally out of the picture as far as alignment and security.
This is how I ended up doing mine. In the yard, I have a piece of styrene that will be painted to resemble a cement base. On the mainline, the "cement base" is mounted onto roadbed which is glued to the foam with latex caulk. The ties are extended to the cement base but do not go under the switch. The 1 inch finishing nails are a little large but will look better once painted black.
I stuck a Caboose sprung high throw onto a piece of sheetmetal with silicone so that when the Atlas Snap Switch is moved, the high throw goes right along with it.