Grinding down drive wheels

[DairyStateDad]

I have a couple of locos with way oversize flanges on the drive wheels. One's an IHC 060 and the other is an old AHM (IHC's predecessor) Consolidation.

I haven't laid any track yet, and that is probably still at least a month away, more like 2 or 3. I have some Code 70 track I got years ago.

If I had my druthers, I'd use the code 70 to reflect the older and more backwoodsy nature of my railroad.

question #1: How easy or difficult is it to grind down drivers to RP-25 profile, or at least depth?

Now, I do know that Code 83 is an OK compromise in terms of more realistic track but able to take oversize flanges. SO...

question #2: How satisfactory is Code 83 really if one is going for the shortline look?

Thanks...

 

[Cjcrescent]

Let me try to answer these for you.
Question #1- Best way to turn the flanges down is with a mini lathe. I however couldn't see the point in buying a $500 machine just to do that.
I have successfully turned down AHM/IHC flanges using a vertical belt sander with very fine sandpaper. This will only decrease the flange depth, not give you a true RP-25 profile. To do this the mech has to be completely taken apart, leaving just one set of the drivers in the frame. There can't be any other parts left attached to the wheels. While the sander is running, using VERY LIGHT pressure, hold the wheels to the sander and allow the sander to turn the wheels. Only allow the sander to turn the wheels for 3-5 seconds at a time or otherwise you can overheat the metal tires and they'll separate from the plastic wheel centers. The friction from sandpaper on the wheels will drop that flange depth to a more realistic depth, but will not give an RP-25 profile, plus you must check the depth with the NMRA gauge. Repeat with each driver set. Filings will get into everything so its very important to clean the frame and drivers before reassembly.
You could also do the same thing with the motor of the loco, using a fine cutting file, but given the quality of some of the older motors, you'd be in greater danger of burning out the motor before the filing was finished. You would still have to disassemble the mech, and clean it completely to remove any filings from it.

Question #2- I have had some friends run their unaltered AHM/IHC locos on my layout, and on the code 83 portion run well. No go on the code 70. With the techniques and products for painting and ballasting track being used nowadays, I think that you'd be really hard pressed to be able to tell if the track was code 83 or 70. I use code 83 for my mains and 70 for everything else, and I can tell you that even unpainted, its not that easy to see the difference in the rail height.

Easiest thing is to just use code 83, and turn down the flanges only on the wheels that absolutely keep hitting spikeheads. I would also check train shows, swap meets, etc for busted models that do have the RP-25 flanges and just replace the deep flanges with these.

 

[lmackattack]

ditto on the methods used to reduce the flange. slow and steady so it does not melt the plasic parts of the axel. also dont let the drive wheels over rev with a belt sander as it will wipe out the axel or axel retainers. you wont get the RP25 profile but if done right you can get it so that the wheels will run on Code 55....

I can run my IHC hudson on code 83 if the balast was kept below the ties. Code 70 and lower and you will find spots where the wheels contact high balast or ties.

 

[julienjj]

I saw a thread on the internet ( do not remember if it was here) where the guy used a file and a dremel, he clamped the dremel in a vise and used it like a lathe. with the plastic center i recommend using an anti-friction lubricant on the metal (that wont eat the pastic too! ) .

 

[hminky]

Put the wheels in the chassis and slowly grind them down with a cutoff disc in a dremel. Touch the wheel gently with the face of the wheel and let it spin. Allow it to cool a lot. Practice on an HO wheel-set in a set of trucks to get technique.

The problem with the flanges are a contour can't be put on them. Even though they are smaller the contour is wrong. They are still too thin and knife bladed.

Harold

 

[DairyStateDad]

Thank you all

These have been really helpful answers. Thank you all. I've got some time to think this over, but being naturally lazy I'm probably going to end up going with the code 83 -- unless I end up just ditching the two locos entirely and starting over!