Green Mountain Railroad Layout Build

[Guilford Railman]

I’ve never tried windex but I have sprayed soapy water on the backside with good results.
That was on the old hardboard that was rough on one side.

I wonder if it does the same thing as the windex? It seems the ammonia in windex is why some have chosen that but I’m not sure why ammonia specifically.

 

[Guilford Railman]

All my wood is warped & bent. None of the support legs are square or straight, but I clamped them prior to drilling once the top was leveled.

Your benchwork is beautiful. Mine is just functional. One day I'll build with good lumber (or buy premade) and have both.

Thanks!

Functionality is key, looks come after. As long as it works, that’s all that matters

 

[troyphoto]

I’ve done some research on bending hardboard but I’m looking to see if anyone has any feedback on their preferred method for doing this. I’ve read that windex can work when sprayed onto the board prior to manipulating the board into a curve. Any thoughts on this technique or any others?

I did the windex method to do this

Saturate both sides. Bend slowly. Keep spraying if you get worried.

 

[troyphoto]

I went to the big box hardware/home store and got a generic brand gallon of window cleaner with ammonia. Used a quarter of it on 7 bends, including two around the center supports.

Ammonia help the liquid penetrate the hardboard quicker than just water. But it evaporates fairly well, so it's no-destructive if the boards are handled with care.

Mine have been up for a year, with paint, and I see no discoloration nor warping.

 

[Guilford Railman]

I did the windex method to do this
View attachment 212032

View attachment 212033

Saturate both sides. Bend slowly. Keep spraying if you get worried.

Wow! That’s quite a bend in the hardboard! I didn’t think it could bend around like that but good to know. Thanks for the information.

 

[Guilford Railman]

I went to the big box hardware/home store and got a generic brand gallon of window cleaner with ammonia. Used a quarter of it on 7 bends, including two around the center supports.

Ammonia help the liquid penetrate the hardboard quicker than just water. But it evaporates fairly well, so it's no-destructive if the boards are handled with care.

Mine have been up for a year, with paint, and I see no discoloration nor warping.

Fantastic! Sounds like this is the way to go then. Thanks!

 

[Guilford Railman]

I managed to complete a very important feature of the layout build, the lift-gate in front of the door way. I spent a few hours yesterday and a few today getting it completed.

I saw many different designs online and ultimately decided on having the hinges mounted to the top of the lift-gate.

It was tricky to get everything lined up, particularly with the issue I’ve been having with the warped board. While I’ve made some improvements on that, it still isn’t perfect.

The foam panel to the left can be pushed down a bit but still leaves an approximately 1/8” height difference between the panels. I’m thinking I may just sand down the panels at a gradual grade to make it work.

I may need to make a few adjustments on the lift gate but it’s coming along! I am planning on using an eye hook and latch to hold it upright when not in use.

In addition to the lift-gate work, I’ve also begun prep for the background panels. I am cutting the 2’ x 4’ panels into one 18” wide section and one 6” wide section. The 18” section is for the backdrop and the 6” sections are for the fascia.

I am planning on making a 5% ammonia solution to spray down the hardboard panels prior to bending them. @troyphoto suggested Windex due to the properties of the ammonia so I figured I could achieve the same effect with making my own solution. Also seen in the picture is some caulking and plaster of paris which will be used for securing the foam and some other future projects.

I’m hoping to continue with the backdrop panels tomorrow if time allows.

 

[migalyto]

I managed to complete a very important feature of the layout build, the lift-gate in front of the door way. I spent a few hours yesterday and a few today getting it completed.

View attachment 212199

View attachment 212200

View attachment 212201

I saw many different designs online and ultimately decided on having the hinges mounted to the top of the lift-gate.

It was tricky to get everything lined up, particularly with the issue I’ve been having with the warped board. While I’ve made some improvements on that, it still isn’t perfect.

View attachment 212206

The foam panel to the left can be pushed down a bit but still leaves an approximately 1/8” height difference between the panels. I’m thinking I may just sand down the panels at a gradual grade to make it work.

I may need to make a few adjustments on the lift gate but it’s coming along! I am planning on using an eye hook and latch to hold it upright when not in use.

In addition to the lift-gate work, I’ve also begun prep for the background panels. I am cutting the 2’ x 4’ panels into one 18” wide section and one 6” wide section. The 18” section is for the backdrop and the 6” sections are for the fascia.

View attachment 212213

Great progress!

Looks like a good engineered lift gate!

I am planning on making a 5% ammonia solution to spray down the hardboard panels prior to bending them. @troyphoto suggested Windex due to the properties of the ammonia so I figured I could achieve the same effect with making my own solution. Also seen in the picture is some caulking and plaster of paris which will be used for securing the foam and some other future projects.

View attachment 212212

I’m hoping to continue with the backdrop panels tomorrow if time allows.

 

[Guilford Railman]

@migalyto, I don’t see a reply. Only my post.

 

[Colorado Midland Modeler]

Lift-gate looks good!

 

[troyphoto]

@migalyto, I don’t see a reply. Only my post.

It's burried at the end of the quoted part. The forum gets wonky sometimes

 

[migalyto]

@migalyto, I don’t see a reply. Only my post.

Great progress!

Looks like a good engineered lift gate!

Yea, don't know what happened there!

As Troy stated, forum was really wonky this morning on my end. Probably the cold weather!

 

[Guilford Railman]

Lift-gate looks good!

Thanks!

 

[Guilford Railman]

It's burried at the end of the quoted part. The forum gets wonky sometimes

I get that way too sometimes so it’s understandable lol.

 

[Guilford Railman]

Great progress!

Looks like a good engineered lift gate!

Yea, don't know what happened there!

As Troy stated, forum was really wonky this morning on my end. Probably the cold weather!

Thanks! Never built one before.

Cold weather screws everything up lol.

 

[migalyto]

Cold weather screws everything up lol.

I know, I have a bad track joint I noticed that expanded due to this recent cold snap.

Guess its time to get some gaps cut!

 

[Guilford Railman]

I know, I have a bad track joint I noticed that expanded due to this recent cold snap.

Guess its time to get some gaps cut!

Sounds like it!

 

[Guilford Railman]

I finished making the horizontal cuts on all the hardboard. Glad that’s over as it took some time using my jig saw!

Disregard the mess behind them haha.

I decided that before I attach the hardboards, I wanted to glue down the foam boards. However, before I could do that, I needed to carve the river beds into the foam. I couldn’t carve the foam boards yet though because I needed to know where tracks would be placed. So….that’s where I’m at now haha.

I used some templates of the Peco turnouts to begin the process. I then used a piece of the flex track to trace a rough outline of the curves.

I realized after taking the photos that it’s hard to see the outlines but you get the idea.

One thing I need feedback on is the module joints.

I was planning on using the ModelTech track joiners.

HO/OO - ProTrack Rail Aligner (Standard) | ModelTech

Laying track over baseboard joints is often challenging, however thanks to the ProTrack Rail Aligner, smooth running can be achieved. Our unique interlocking ends guide the rails into position, allowing perfect track alignment every time. Pack includes 8 pieces(4 pairs), Compatible with both...

www.modeltech.uk

However, unless I position the track joints to be flush with the edges of the modules, these won’t work. Does anybody have any suggestions or alternatives to this product?

I can implement the same method I used on my shelf layout where I soldered brass tubes on the ends of the rails and slide brass pins into them which worked well but I wanted to try a new method if possible.

 

[shortwrench]

I finished making the horizontal cuts on all the hardboard. Glad that’s over as it took some time using my jig saw!

View attachment 212252

Disregard the mess behind them haha.

I decided that before I attach the hardboards, I wanted to glue down the foam boards. However, before I could do that, I needed to carve the river beds into the foam. I couldn’t carve the foam boards yet though because I needed to know where tracks would be placed. So….that’s where I’m at now haha.

View attachment 212258

I used some templates of the Peco turnouts to begin the process. I then used a piece of the flex track to trace a rough outline of the curves.

View attachment 212259

View attachment 212260

View attachment 212261

View attachment 212262

View attachment 212263

I realized after taking the photos that it’s hard to see the outlines but you get the idea.

One thing I need feedback on is the module joints.

View attachment 212265

View attachment 212266

I was planning on using the ModelTech track joiners.

HO/OO - ProTrack Rail Aligner (Standard) | ModelTech

Laying track over baseboard joints is often challenging, however thanks to the ProTrack Rail Aligner, smooth running can be achieved. Our unique interlocking ends guide the rails into position, allowing perfect track alignment every time. Pack includes 8 pieces(4 pairs), Compatible with both...

www.modeltech.uk

However, unless I position the track joints to be flush with the edges of the modules, these won’t work. Does anybody have any suggestions or alternatives to this product?

I can implement the same method I used on my shelf layout where I soldered brass tubes on the ends of the rails and slide brass pins into them which worked well but I wanted to try a new method if possible.

I use drywall compound on the foam joints.

 

[Guilford Railman]

I use drywall compound on the foam joints.

Not worried about the gaps in the foam joints but rather “locking” methods to keep the tracks lined together on the joints themselves.

The modules need to come apart easily and with no mess if I ever have to move or move the layout away from the crawl space access hatch.